What clutch shudder does to your clutch parts. - Page 5
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Thread: What clutch shudder does to your clutch parts.

  1. #121
    Very Active Member Woody109's Avatar
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    Can you tell us how you "cleaned" the fiber plates?


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  3. #122
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woody109 View Post
    Can you tell us how you "cleaned" the fiber plates?
    Just wiped them of with a rag, no liquids or anything like that.


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  4. #123
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    All the metall plates are supposed to go in the same slot in the outer basket, right? And the fiber plates are failprof, right?


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  6. #124
    Very Active Member Woody109's Avatar
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    The metal plates lock into the hub (inner part). The fibers index into the outer primary drive assembly. I would say you might have gotten something in the wrong order. I know its a pain but I would take it all apart again and reassemble following the parts diagram here http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

    Good luck. Let us know how you make out


  7. #125
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    If you did it exactly like the diagram, then it has to be in adjustment.
    Can you take a pic of your handle adjustment and of the lower cable adjustment?

    Also, did you remove the locking nut on the pushpin when you ground it or did you leave it hooked up?

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
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  8. #126
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    If you did it exactly like the diagram, then it has to be in adjustment.
    Can you take a pic of your handle adjustment and of the lower cable adjustment?

    Also, did you remove the locking nut on the pushpin when you ground it or did you leave it hooked up?
    I didn't remove the locking nut completely but allmost, do you think it wasn't enough and it touches the

    other bolt?

    I'm thinking of taking a pic of me putting in each and every plate so you can follow each step.

    I can take pic's of adjustment points.

    Tnx for helping me


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  9. #127
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    I didn't remove the locking nut completely but allmost, do you think it wasn't enough and it touches the

    other bolt?

    I'm thinking of taking a pic of me putting in each and every plate so you can follow each step.

    I can take pic's of adjustment points.

    Tnx for helping me
    If you moved the locking nut, then the adjustment in the pin is off. That nut doesn't need moved to grind the pin. It is one of the hardest things to get adjusted back. Took me about 10 times of taking it on and off to get it right.

    This pin looks wrong in my experience. Most normally a couple threads are showing outside of the locking nut.

    The pics above....is that a pic of the pin before you did anything to it? Do you have a pic of the pin in the beginning. That might tell us how many threads were sticking out. Let me see if I can find the procedure on adjusting the pin. The only problem is the clutch pack will tighten some as you drive it more so might need another adjustment.

    See this pic from Listan1..... His has a few threads out the locking nut.

    This is pretty much exactly like the ones I've seen. I can't find the directions for adjusting the pin, but I'll try to write them out how I remember so you can adjust yours. There shouldn't have been needed any clutch adjusting at the handle or the side of the engine on the cable if a straight grinding and replacement was done. If you have adjusted the cable at all, at either end, take the cable loose from the handle. Just let it hang there.

    after letting the cable loose at the handle
    1. loosen the locking nut at at the push pin. screw out the all thread bolt 1/2 inch or so. (This is to keep it from hitting the rod that is inside the hole.)
    2. properly assemble clutch -If apart. (If not apart then just loosen the handle and then back off the push pin all thread part. Skip to step 4)
    3. tighten the six bolts on the pressure plate. Tighten them a little at a time and in a crisscross pattern until snug. Then lightly torq. Do not over tighten!! This will help the clutch pack tighten up evenly.
    4. Once clutch is together. (The push pin should still be adjusted way out and the lock nut loose.) Go to the clutch swing arm the cable is attached to on the side of the engine. Pull the little swingarm all the way up so that it is fully retracted. This is the zero point of your clutch cable pressure.
    5.Go back around to the clutch basket side and use a Phillips head screw driver to slowly screw back in the all thread bolt. (DO NOT LET THE PIN TURN at all through these next steps, just the all thread bolt) Go lightly until you feel the bolt hit and want to firm up. (Don't let the locking nut touch the pin yet or it will be what you feel as pressure) You will feel pressure start on the all thread.
    6. Once you have felt pressure, Back the all thread back off again a 1/2 inch or so.
    7. This time screw it back in again but when you feel it touch something, stop. Then back the all thread off 1 full turn. (Once again don't let the Pin turn at all!) Now. The pin is adjusted. We just have to get the locking nut tightened now.
    8. This will take some talent.....Have your wife/significant other hold the pin with a wrench so that it will not move! If your wife shakes or has loss of concentration at times, use a buddy! She must hold that pin perfectly still. You hold the Phillips screw driver on the all-thread perfectly still and then run the nut to the pin with your fingers.
    9.While everyone is holding everything perfectly still, use a wrench and tighten the locking nut so that it is the only thing moving. It doesn't have to be blue tight but you want it to be firmly snug so it won't back off.

    If this is all done right ,then your pin is adjusted. The pin should turn easily inside the clutch and when you push and pull it with your fingers, you should feel a clicking like sensation....aka...a little play.

    Now, go back to the handle and put it back on. If it is too tight to put back on, then you will need to let out some slack at the cable side of the engine. If it is too loose, of course put it together , but take some slack at the lower adjustment afterwards. Once you have both ends of the cable adjusted the clutch pack should move properly.

    Let us know how it goes at that point. If it doesn't work right or you have trouble with it, we will have to see about skype.
    Last edited by The HUFF; 05-01-2013 at 02:12 PM.

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  10. #128
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Wow that's a great walkthrough man

    The pic of my adjustment pin is taken when I pulled it right out of the engine, so I havn't touch the adjustment on it. I have a question about step 6 & 7.

    Can you please explain to me why I'm I supposed to screw the full thread in all the way and then reverse it about a 1/2 inch and then screw it back in there a second time?

    What is it that changes for the second time? Sorry for all the stupid questions but I'm just trying to get the hole picture here and where all the steps takes me.


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  11. #129
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Wow that's a great walkthrough man

    The pic of my adjustment pin is taken when I pulled it right out of the engine, so I havn't touch the adjustment on it. I have a question about step 6 & 7.

    Can you please explain to me why I'm I supposed to screw the full thread in all the way and then reverse it about a 1/2 inch and then screw it back in there a second time?

    What is it that changes for the second time? Sorry for all the stupid questions but I'm just trying to get the hole picture here and where all the steps takes me.
    Sure. First off....It's not all the way in. It's only until you get some tension.

    Inside that shaft is a long tube and a ball. When you go on the other side of the bike and lift up the clutch cable arm it will separate the plunger from the ball. That means there is space. So you have to first take up that space inside of the shaft before you can make the final adjustment. That's why the first time you put some pressure on it. The second time you stop as soon as you hit, then back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
    With Individual Freedom and Individual Salvation comes Individual Accountability. It brings a rewarding life to all. <--The Huff

  12. #130
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Wow that's a great walkthrough man

    The pic of my adjustment pin is taken when I pulled it right out of the engine, so I havn't touch the adjustment on it. I have a question about step 6 & 7.

    Can you please explain to me why I'm I supposed to screw the full thread in all the way and then reverse it about a 1/2 inch and then screw it back in there a second time?

    What is it that changes for the second time? Sorry for all the stupid questions but I'm just trying to get the hole picture here and where all the steps takes me.
    Now my question with is, you said earlier that you broke loose the lock nut. If you did that without holding the screw with a phillips head driver, then you did adjust it, you just didn't know it. Or did you mean you eventually touched it that this was a pre pic only?

    And just to clear something up. When you had it running, and put it in gear, it wouldn't go back to neutral right? It was hard to get it to go from gear to gear with just holding the clutch in.
    If you didn't take that nut loose then we probably don't want to mess with it. That would mean you're probably wrong on cable adjustment. To adjust the clutch cable you have to start from the side of the motor and go to the handle.
    Last edited by The HUFF; 05-01-2013 at 11:20 AM.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
    With Individual Freedom and Individual Salvation comes Individual Accountability. It brings a rewarding life to all. <--The Huff

  13. #131
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Hi link deleted , did not work anymore.
    Last edited by Kazimodo; 04-01-2016 at 07:51 PM.
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  14. #132
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Sure. First off....It's not all the way in. It's only until you get some tension.

    Inside that shaft is a long tube and a ball. When you go on the other side of the bike and lift up the clutch cable arm it will separate the plunger from the ball. That means there is space. So you have to first take up that space inside of the shaft before you can make the final adjustment. That's why the first time you put some pressure on it. The second time you stop as soon as you hit, then back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
    Ok tnx now I understand and I looked at diagram of the clutch to see what you mean.

    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Now my question with is, you said earlier that you broke loose the lock nut. If you did that without holding the screw with a phillips head driver, then you did adjust it, you just didn't know it. Or did you mean you eventually touched it that this was a pre pic only?

    And just to clear something up. When you had it running, and put it in gear, it wouldn't go back to neutral right? It was hard to get it to go from gear to gear with just holding the clutch in.
    If you didn't take that nut loose then we probably don't want to mess with it. That would mean you're probably wrong on cable adjustment. To adjust the clutch cable you have to start from the side of the motor and go to the handle.
    Just to clarify one thing, I have not had the engine running but I have only tested the clutch by putting into gear and try to push the bike while I hold the clutch lever. What happens then is that the gear is still conected though I hold the clutch lever.


    Clarification, when I had mounted the clutch the first time so I just reassembled back the adjustment pin just like when I removed it.
    When the clutch was not working, so I started to adjust the pin, I didn't use a screwdriver but I held onto it a little larger bolt on the pin. Then i used a screwdriver to adjust the full thread, I was looking at the instructions that Kazimodo refers to but I don't think I got it right because it doesn't tell me to back it up like you do.


    The image on the adjustment pin is when it's untouched.

    Another thing that struck me is whether it makes any difference if I have the engine cover in front of clutch mounted or not



    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    Hi guys , is this the instructions you are looking for ??
    .
    http://www.mym109r.com/howtos/m109-c...adjustment.pdf


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  15. #133
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Ok tnx now I understand and I looked at diagram of the clutch to see what you mean.



    Just to clarify one thing, I have not had the engine running but I have only tested the clutch by putting into gear and try to push the bike while I hold the clutch lever. What happens then is that the gear is still conected though I hold the clutch lever.
    Oh...I thought you had started it. There are a lot of things that have to adjust properly after the clutch pack has been apart with a couple pieces replaced. I'm not sure if mine would roll or not after putting the clutch back together. I never tried it. Maybe Kazimodo has some insight on that.


    Clarification, when I had mounted the clutch the first time so I just reassembled back the adjustment pin just like when I removed it.
    When the clutch was not working, so I started to adjust the pin, I didn't use a screwdriver but I held onto it a little larger bolt on the pin. Then i used a screwdriver to adjust the full thread, I was looking at the instructions that Kazimodo refers to but I don't think I got it right because it doesn't tell me to back it up like you do.
    Okay....You're going to have to adjust everything. Do in this order....1st -pin, 2nd- lower area of clutch cable, then handlebar adjustment. That will put things in line for you. Don't do the pin with the clutch handle installed. It took me a long time to figure this out. It was only after talking with FutureR that I finally got it right on mine.

    The image on the adjustment pin is when it's untouched.


    Another thing that struck me is whether it makes any difference if I have the engine cover in front of clutch mounted or not
    No. Wouldn't make a difference



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    With Individual Freedom and Individual Salvation comes Individual Accountability. It brings a rewarding life to all. <--The Huff

  16. #134
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    Hi guys , is this the instructions you are looking for ??
    .
    http://www.mym109r.com/howtos/m109-c...adjustment.pdf
    Yes that was it....thanks

    Here's the instructions about the pin from the service bulletin....
    Loosen the lock nut
    3
    and turn in the release screw

    4
    to feel
    resistance.
    * From that position, turn out the release screw

    4
    1 turn and
    tighten the lock nut

    3
    securely by holding the release screw


    4
    .
    "

    Clutch release screw: 1 turn back


    There is a correction to my instructions on my pin instruction post. It is 1 full turn back not 1/4-1/2!!!! Please notice this correction!

    I went back and corrected the instructions on my post


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  17. #135
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Tnx I will have a go tomorrow


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  18. #136
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Ok there we go, done everything according the plan. I have a question, when I have done all the adjusting is the adjustment pin supposed to be tighter in the pressure plate? Before a did all the adjustment points I could pull the pin out about 2 mm but now it feels tighter but I can still turn it whitout any effort if you know how I mean.Maybe I should give it some more slack in the lower adjustment arm?
    The bike is still a bit heavy to push when is in gear but maybe that will change when I start her up with some oil in the system


    I have been taking pictures of the entire proces, I will put post them later.


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  19. #137
    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Ok there we go, done everything according the plan. I have a question, when I have done all the adjusting is the adjustment pin supposed to be tighter in the pressure plate? Before a did all the adjustment points I could pull the pin out about 2 mm but now it feels tighter but I can still turn it whitout any effort if you know how I mean.Maybe I should give it some more slack in the lower adjustment arm?
    The bike is still a bit heavy to push when is in gear but maybe that will change when I start her up with some oil in the system


    I have been taking pictures of the entire proces, I will put post them later.
    2mm would be way too much. That is probably why it wasn't releasing. It should very slightly wiggle in and out though. Did you back it off 1 full turn? If it is too tight to the pressure plate then the clutch will slip. Make sure your clutch cable swing arm is all the way up when you rock the pin in and out. The arm won't naturally go all the way up until the clutch is spinning.
    Last edited by The HUFF; 05-02-2013 at 10:55 AM.

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  20. #138
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Yup did 1 full back turn. Ahh when I lift the arm I can feel it moving again, that's a good thing right?


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    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Yup did 1 full back turn. Ahh when I lift the arm I can feel it moving again, that's a good thing right?
    Yep!

    If it has been done right at the cable end the clutch should move a bit more than what it had before. Make sure you have the appropriate play in the handle

    I've got a meeting to go to for about 3 hours. So it will be a while beofre I get back, but sounds like you are on the right track. The first time you put it in gear (Don't start it for the first time in gear. Use Neutral) Keep your thumb close to the kill switch in case you have an issue when you put it in gear. What I would do is start the bike in neutral, then shut off and test clutch. Then start again and try out your gear.
    Last edited by The HUFF; 05-02-2013 at 11:35 AM.

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  22. #140
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Yep!

    If it has been done right at the cable end the clutch should move a bit more than what it had before. Make sure you have the appropriate play in the handle

    I've got a meeting to go to for about 3 hours. So it will be a while beofre I get back, but sounds like you are on the right track. The first time you put it in gear (Don't start it for the first time in gear. Use Neutral) Keep your thumb close to the kill switch in case you have an issue when you put it in gear. What I would do is start the bike in neutral, then shut off and test clutch. Then start again and try out your gear.
    Geee tnx man, I think we'r getting there but I don't dare to cheer yet

    I ran out of time today so I will continue tommorow


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  23. #141
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Yay I got it to work, my clutch and gearbox has never felt this good. Feels like an awesome combo with replacement parts in the clutch with the EVO Shift Star.

    I just want to thank all of you who have come with advice regarding my problems, in general, and "The HUFF" especially (you are my hero;-))

    I also hope that you (futurR) don't think I have hijacked your excellent thread.

    I were realy scared when I was about to test the clutch for the first time but with my finger on the "kill switch" like you said The HUFF, I went for it, and it were ALL GOOD


    Posting a link to my Photobucket where you can follow all the steps in my clutch adventure, hoping that it might be helpful to someone.

    http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/sn...library/Clutch If you scroll down a bit, I added a little info of each image.


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    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Thats great. Glad all is well. Congrats. Your experience is probably good to have on this thread so others might see some secrets before they start.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
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    Very Active Member chesshine5000's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the info guys. I tried to view the pics again today on photobucket and they aren't cooperating for some reason. Also, did you guys put on any kind of sealant when you put your pipes back on? Mine have some dried red stuff around the connections and I am wondering if I need to clean that off and put more on or something? I tore my gasket when taking the cover off, my brother and I tried not to, but it tore a little. I also got some pics of my internal clutch plates, they looked like they had some rust on them or something!? I'll post up pics tomorrow, maybe you guys can tell me if it's normal.

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    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chesshine5000 View Post
    Thanks for all of the info guys. I tried to view the pics again today on photobucket and they aren't cooperating for some reason. Also, did you guys put on any kind of sealant when you put your pipes back on? Mine have some dried red stuff around the connections and I am wondering if I need to clean that off and put more on or something? I tore my gasket when taking the cover off, my brother and I tried not to, but it tore a little. I also got some pics of my internal clutch plates, they looked like they had some rust on them or something!? I'll post up pics tomorrow, maybe you guys can tell me if it's normal.
    Hmm strange, the photobucket link works for me.

    I didn't put any extra sealing on the exhaust, just the gaskets.


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    Very Active Member chesshine5000's Avatar
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    The pictures of my clutch plates can be seen here. http://m1316.photobucket.com/albums/chesshine/ Maybe the wear/coloration is normal. I measured the plates from fiber to steel (thickness) with my calipers and they were within tolerance. I also measured the teeth widths and they were within tolerance.

    Were the exhaust gaskets metal? I figured there would be some fiber type gaskets, but I'm not seeing any? Here's some pics of my pipes and header.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chesshine5000 View Post
    The pictures of my clutch plates can be seen here. http://m1316.photobucket.com/albums/chesshine/ Maybe the wear/coloration is normal. I measured the plates from fiber to steel (thickness) with my calipers and they were within tolerance. I also measured the teeth widths and they were within tolerance.

    Were the exhaust gaskets metal? I figured there would be some fiber type gaskets, but I'm not seeing any? Here's some pics of my pipes and header.
    They look completely normal.

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  29. #147
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    Explain this shudder? How do you know if your nine is doing it. Shifting? accelerating? My mine is performing great, but if somthing happens in the future. I want to know what to look for.

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    Very Active Member chesshine5000's Avatar
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    Thanks! You set my mind at ease. What about sealing the exhaust? Does anyone have a picture of their exhaust seals? When I get home I can take a picture of my pipes in headers, but I was wondering if anyone had a picture of the seals on hand now.

    to answer your question, it's really not a matter of if you get caught shutter, it is when. . Essentially it feels like the bike is jerking slightly when you take off from 1st gear. Many have experienced it in cooler weathers to begin with but really, it can happen anytime anywhere. Mind personally only did it right when I started the bike and started to take off. It just kind of jerking a little bit and felt like my clutch was slipping. at first it starts kind of gradually, you will kind of wonder if you were holding the clutch in all the way. But as it progresses I have heard that it really gets much worse and the bike shakes pretty hard when you're trying to take off. If I were you kama I would try to not let it get that bad before you fix it. When I took my steel out as Matt recommends, it had no indication of bluing due to excessive heat. You really don't want to let it get that bad. I hope this answers your question. I must apologize for any typos As I am using my phone's voice to text feature.

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    sorry to revive an old thread but this is some great info for new 9 owners (i.e. Me) to help know whats going on with their bike if they have this problem. Once again sorry about bringing it back from the dead.

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    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Primewish View Post
    sorry to revive an old thread but this is some great info for new 9 owners (i.e. Me) to help know whats going on with their bike if they have this problem. Once again sorry about bringing it back from the dead.
    It's great to bring back threads when helpful and relevant.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
    With Individual Freedom and Individual Salvation comes Individual Accountability. It brings a rewarding life to all. <--The Huff

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