Replacing Front Brake Shoes
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Thread: Replacing Front Brake Shoes

  1. #1
    Very Active Member Lemiarty's Avatar
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    Default Replacing Front Brake Shoes

    Any reason I should not attempt to replace the front brake shoes on my C myself? Doesn't look like it would be nearly as hard to get at as a car and I really don't like the labor rates to do it when you can buy kevlar carbon pads for less than 30 bucks.
    '08 C109RT Black and Silver, Show Chrome heated grips, National Cycle hand deflectors, Speedo Visor, Nautilus Air horn, GMan TRE, GBushing, GMan Riser Extender, Corbin heated touring saddle, Cobra Fatty highway bars, Kuryaken highway pegs, Sage Brush engine guard chaps, more mods to come with $$

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    Very Active Member BAD BOY M109R's Avatar
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    breakshoes on bikes are easy...
    BONE STOCK

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    Very Active Member Big-B's Avatar
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    brake shoes?


    IT'S NOT ABOUT HOW FAST YOU GET THERE, IT'S ABOUT THE RIDE ITSELF. TAKE YOUR TIME AND ENJOY IT!!

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    brake shoes?
    Really B. You and I know that he means brake pads.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lemiarty View Post
    Any reason I should not attempt to replace the front brake shoes on my C myself? Doesn't look like it would be nearly as hard to get at as a car and I really don't like the labor rates to do it when you can buy kevlar carbon pads for less than 30 bucks.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE
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    Very Active Member BAD BOY M109R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    brake shoes?
    dang that took you 5 min...... slacking....
    BONE STOCK

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    Very Active Member amvince's Avatar
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    It is an easy job just follow the service manual. If you are changing the brake fluid it is a little harder. Just remember if you change the pads you will need to pump the brakes back up before riding anywhere. I forgot once and it wasn't a pleasant experience.
    I just plan on doing everything twice when I start it and that way when it takes 3 times to get it right I'm only half as mad.

  9. #7
    Very Active Member Lemiarty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amvince View Post
    It is an easy job just follow the service manual. If you are changing the brake fluid it is a little harder. Just remember if you change the pads you will need to pump the brakes back up before riding anywhere. I forgot once and it wasn't a pleasant experience.
    I'd really rather not buy a service manual for about $100.00 to do a job that should be fairly straight forward. I just want to make sure there aren't any "gotchas" that I'm not aware of...I'd rather not injure myself with my brakes!
    '08 C109RT Black and Silver, Show Chrome heated grips, National Cycle hand deflectors, Speedo Visor, Nautilus Air horn, GMan TRE, GBushing, GMan Riser Extender, Corbin heated touring saddle, Cobra Fatty highway bars, Kuryaken highway pegs, Sage Brush engine guard chaps, more mods to come with $$

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    Very Active Member antmor69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemiarty View Post
    I'd really rather not buy a service manual for about $100.00 to do a job that should be fairly straight forward. I just want to make sure there aren't any "gotchas" that I'm not aware of...I'd rather not injure myself with my brakes!
    Don't know about the "C" but you can download the service manual for the "M" for free. I've got all 586 pages of it on my phone.

  11. #9
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    You can find the manual online here in pdf. I have it saved on my phone but don't know how to upload it to site.

    It's an easy job. You will need proper wrench to remove caliper, c-clamp, rags and cleaner and lube. remove one caliper at a time, remove pads and clean and lube piston cups. Put pad next to pistons back in and after removing the master cylinder cover gently squeeze the cups back into the calipers using the c-clamp. Cover the bike and go slow so you don't squirt fluid all over. Cover caliper with rag so you don't scratch up the surface. Install new pads and reinstall on bike, repeat for second caliper. Now you have to set pads. Reinstall master cylinder cover after checking that fluid is full and give the lever a few squeezes. Make sure you pay attention to site window and add fluid when needed. Repeat until you have a solid lever. You shouldn't have to bleed the system because you never crack a bleeder doing it this way.

    Edit

    I see now you were asking about c model. Being that bike has a linked break system I'm not sure if there is more to it then what I stated above a nd the manual I have is for the m model as well.
    Last edited by Latinrascal; 08-02-2012 at 06:06 PM.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    You can find the manual online here in pdf. I have it saved on my phone but don't know how to upload it to site.

    It's an easy job. You will need proper wrench to remove caliper, c-clamp, rags and cleaner and lube. remove one caliper at a time, remove pads and clean and lube piston cups. Put pad next to pistons back in and after removing the master cylinder cover gently squeeze the cups back into the calipers using the c-clamp. Cover the bike and go slow so you don't squirt fluid all over. Cover caliper with rag so you don't scratch up the surface. Install new pads and reinstall on bike, repeat for second caliper. Now you have to set pads. Reinstall master cylinder cover after checking that fluid is full and give the lever a few squeezes. Make sure you pay attention to site window and add fluid when needed. Repeat until you have a solid lever. You shouldn't have to bleed the system because you never crack a bleeder doing it this way.

    Edit

    I see now you were asking about c model. Being that bike has a linked break system I'm not sure if there is more to it then what I stated above a nd the manual I have is for the m model as well.
    This is the way I would do it with one exception. From working on my ATV's, I've found a way to change pads without ever having to bleeding them. Leave the cover on the master cylinder. Barely open your bleeder valve and then use the c-clamp and brake pad to squeeze the piston back in. Once the piston is all the way back in, then tighten the bleeder valve before you loosen the c-clamp.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

  13. #11
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    This is the way I would do it with one exception. From working on my ATV's, I've found a way to change pads without ever having to bleeding them. Leave the cover on the master cylinder. Barely open your bleeder valve and then use the c-clamp and brake pad to squeeze the piston back in. Once the piston is all the way back in, then tighten the bleeder valve before you loosen the c-clamp.
    It has been to my experience that anytime you crack the bleeders you should bleed the system of any air you let in by doing so. If you follow what I described you will not get air into the system at all as long as the fluid stays above the minimum capacity in the master cyclinder because you are simply pushing the fluid back out the line and up into the MC. Just remember to take it slow. Not saying my way is better its just better for me.

  14. #12
    Active Member chwbca's Avatar
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    i replaced the pads on mine. easy job. but in the caliper there is a spring clip the holds the pads in, take note of how its positioned, it is not symetrical. mine fell out, and i put it back in upsidedown. on the test ride, the pad jumped an ear designed to hold the non piston side pad in place, and it caused the pad to drag. flipped the spring clip thing over and all has been fine since.

  15. #13
    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    It has been to my experience that anytime you crack the bleeders you should bleed the system of any air you let in by doing so. If you follow what I described you will not get air into the system at all as long as the fluid stays above the minimum capacity in the master cyclinder because you are simply pushing the fluid back out the line and up into the MC. Just remember to take it slow. Not saying my way is better its just better for me.
    There is no better one way. Either way will work. It's just personal preference. The main thing is to make sure there's no air in the lines or else you will have to bleed them.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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