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Anyone do the Pushpin mod?

18K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  Roll_Tide 
#1 ·
I have clutch shudder when I try to take off above 3000 rpms...
I was curious if anyone around the cities has done the mod; since I would say I'm an amateur grease monkey and don't know if I want to dive into something as important as a clutch...
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
#3 ·
Go there , like having Listan with you for the job
..
http://pagreaves.com/109/clutch/clutch.htm
That makes me feel a little better, but the washers and stuff you replace along with grinding the push pin; are those the "Washer and Bearings" he refers to?
So if I was doing this I would stop at the same step as when he removes the push pin right?
 
#4 ·
It is called the "pin" mod or adjustment pin mod. A push pin is the black plastic pin that holds the side covers to the frame under the front seat---and used in a few other spots on the bike. Just trying to clarify so there is no confusion for others in the future.
 
#5 ·
Okie dokie then; good to know. I was just calling it what I read on all the other threads. I'm sure people knew what I meant sorry for the confusion.
 
#6 · (Edited)
If I ever get the clutch shudder I will follow the inst
ructions on that step-by-step by Listan1 , and when
I am at the part where you just pull out the push pin
I will grind 3 flat spots around the Pin(( or get a machine shop to do it ))
and reinstall everything , clutch shudder gone ......
.
updated to show 3 flat spots instead of 2
seems to be the opinion of the experts .
 

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#7 ·
If I ever get the clutch shudder I will follow the inst
ructions on that step-by-step by Listan1 , and when
I am at the part where you just pull out the push pin
I will grind 2 flat spots on opposing sides (( or get a machine shop to do it ))
and reinstall everything , clutch shudder gone ......
Do I need to replace the washer & plate? Or just do the grinding? Not that it would be hard to do, but want to make this as simple as possible so I don't eff anything up. You've been sch a help! Thanks so much!
 
#9 ·
When I did mine, I just ground the pin. I am not sure what washer you are talking about. I did replace the wave washer and the seat. But not everyone has done that. Some have just ground the pin.
 
#11 ·
I know it sounds complicated, but this fix is relatively easy to do. Removing the exhaust is a no-brainer. The clutch cover assembly has a gasket on the back of it that you need to be mindful of when removing.
Once the cover is off, the pin will be sitting right in front of your face. Remove the bolts/springs of the pressure plate and then the plate itself, and this will free up the pin to be pulled out.
Easy-Peezie-Lemon-Squeezie.
 
#14 ·
Nice PDF Edwilk55:bigthumbsup:
.
just one question for the Gurus on the site
in this PDF and other threads the Torque applied to
the 6 springs on reassembly is " 6 to 8 ft/lb ".

I remember reading 4 ft/lb by Nemo , but it was
in a thread where he is putting other than original
springs , where he uses a torque wrench in inches
so he puts 48 inch /lb .

.

So.......Do Original springs require 4ft/lb ,or 6 to 8 ft/lb ??
 
#24 ·
i got your message Roll Tide , quite simple in fact ,
once the exhaust is removed , you will have to remove the side cover ,
get a cardboard, make rough drawing of the side cover
punch holes in the cardboard where bolts are and put
the bolts in the cardboard holes as you remove them
to make sure they go back in the same holes.
.
with cover removed , you will see the pin , but it
is behind the basket's cover held in place by 6 bolts
on springs ,I made another cardboard drawing of the basket
there are some letters on the basket to help you situate
the 6 holes , with the 6 bolts removed the cover comes off
then the adjustment Pin just slides out , DO NOT UNDO
THE SMALL ADJUSTMENT ON THE PIN if your bike was
operating well pryor to the mod , if you replace any
of the plates inside the clutch , you will have to
readjust the pin .
If all was well , just remove pin , put it in the vise
and grind 3 SMALL flat spots on the pin ,
not hard the top has a 6 side bolt head , so one
flat spot every 2 sides aligned on the top of the pin.
remove from vise , dab of new engine oil on the pin
and slide back in .
.
the important part is to not torque the 6 springs
to tight when putting them back in ,some say 4ft-lb
some say 6 to 8 ft-lb, you decide.
 
#26 ·
Did the pin mod some time ago, yet I still experienced occasional shudder. Last night I replaced the wave washer, drive plate and flat washer (part diagram numbers 6, 12 & 13) with the help of Listan1's old posting. When I removed my original wave washer, I could not see any significant damage, so I am now of course skeptical that it will not rectify my problems.

Rode it in to work this morning and did not experience shudder (fingers crossed), but I did notice increased effort to shift gears. I have to pull noticeably harder to change up.

Clutch adjustment is spot on.

Any thoughts???
 
#29 ·
Pin Adjustment, Correct me if I am wrong:
Expose the pin, loosen the lock nut, turn in till I feel resistance, back out 1-full turn, tighten lock nut.
Good???
 
#30 ·
little something I found in my files ...
.
" Clutch Adjustment , all points



I can't find the directions for adjusting the pin,
but I'll try to write them out how I remember so you can adjust yours.
There shouldn't have been needed any clutch adjusting at the handle or
the side of the engine on the cable if a straight grinding and
replacement was done.
If you have adjusted the cable at all, at either end, take the cable
loose from the handle. Just let it hang there , after letting the cable
loose at the handle;
1. loosen the locking nut at at the push pin.
screw out the all thread bolt 1/2 inch or so. (This is to keep it
from hitting the rod that is inside the hole.)
2. properly assemble clutch -If apart. (If not apart then just
loosen the handle and then back off the push pin all thread part. Skip to step 4)
3. tighten the six bolts on the pressure plate.
Tighten them a little at a time and in a crisscross pattern until snug.
Then lightly torq. Do not over tighten!! This will help the
clutch pack tighten up evenly.
4. Once clutch is together. (The push pin should still be adjusted way out
and the lock nut loose.) Go to the clutch swing arm the cable is attached to
on the side of the engine. Pull the little swingarm all the way up so that it
is fully retracted. This is the zero point of your clutch cable pressure.
5.Go back around to the clutch basket side and use a Phillips head screw driver
to slowly screw back in the all thread bolt. (DO NOT LET THE PIN TURN at all through
these next steps, just the all thread bolt) Go lightly until you feel the bolt hit
and want to firm up. (Don't let the locking nut touch the pin yet or it will be
what you feel as pressure) You will feel pressure start on the all thread.
6. Once you have felt pressure, Back the all thread back off again a 1/2 inch or so.

7. This time screw it back in again but when you feel it touch something, stop.
Then back the all thread off 1 full turn.
(Once again don't let the Pin turn at all!)
Now. The pin is adjusted. We just have to get the locking nut tightened now.
8. This will take some talent.....Have your wife/significant other hold
the pin with a wrench so that it will not move! If your wife shakes or has
loss of concentration at times, use a buddy! She must hold that pin
perfectly still. You hold the Phillips screw driver on the all-thread
perfectly still and then run the nut to the pin with your fingers.

9.While everyone is holding everything perfectly still, use a wrench and tighten
the locking nut so that it is the only thing moving. It doesn't have to be
blue tight but you want it to be firmly snug so it won't back off.
If this is all done right ,then your pin is adjusted.
The pin should turn easily inside the clutch and when you push and pull
it with your fingers, you should feel a clicking like sensation....aka...a little play.
Now, go back to the handle and put it back on.
If it is too tight to put back on, then you will need to let out some
slack at the cable side of the engine. If it is too loose, of course put
it together , but take some slack at the lower adjustment afterwards.
Once you have both ends of the cable adjusted the clutch pack should move properly.

I have the pdf file from Suzuki for this ,but how to we add a pdf file to a post ?? anybody know ?
 
#31 ·
Thanks! I don't need the PDF but others may want to see it. I may ride her again and see if the resistance is still there. It is cold and rainy now out here in Lancaster, so I may have to wait a few days.

I'll report again if I notice anything odd.
 
#32 ·
Well I have now had a chance to ride her at least 5-6 times with the updated parts and I have still not experienced the shudder. Maybe there was some damage to my old parts that just wasn't visible. Maybe the wave washer lost some of its "spring"....I really don't know.

Shifting feels more positive, and I am slowly gaining confidence that I will not experience shudder when pulling away from a stop.

It's kind of crazy to think how engrained that feeling has become. I am always expecting it....
 
#35 ·
I'm still having this problem after the push pin mod. It mainly happens at rpm's higher than 2k and hot weather. Specifically is the warmer weather. Please give me advise. Thanks.
You'll need to be a bit more descriptive if you want people to help. What are the symptoms you are experiencing? What exactly have you done to diagnose and resolve the problem?
 
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