Cobra driving light bar
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Thread: Cobra driving light bar

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Default Cobra driving light bar

    I'm having issues with my Cobra driving lights. The other day, one of the light bulbs blew, so I replaced it. A few days later both light bulbs blew. Well, I just took one of the lights apart to replace the bulb and the female end that the bulb plugs in to and the other female end wire that is the ground were both dark brown( almost black in color ). I haven't had a chance to follow the wires back into the headlight bucket to see if I can see a problem. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Maybe a burned out fuse or poor ground?? I can't remember if the lights had an in-line fuse when I wired them up.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member 1r's Avatar
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    if you wired them into the factory wiring in the bucket then they should have a 10amp fuse on them already ( the stand alone one marked aux on the cover) It is posable that a bad ground orlose positive conection could be causing them to blow .A long while back I was blowing turn/marker bulbs on the harley and someone asked if I was using motorcycle specific bulbs becuse they are made for higher vibrations.
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1r View Post
    if you wired them into the factory wiring in the bucket then they should have a 10amp fuse on them already ( the stand alone one marked aux on the cover) It is posable that a bad ground orlose positive conection could be causing them to blow .A long while back I was blowing turn/marker bulbs on the harley and someone asked if I was using motorcycle specific bulbs becuse they are made for higher vibrations.
    I wired them up just like the instructions said to. They came with H3 light bulbs and that's the number I replaced them with. I'm going to have to check the fuse in the headlight bucket.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    I wired them up just like the instructions said to. They came with H3 light bulbs and that's the number I replaced them with. I'm going to have to check the fuse in the headlight bucket.
    Since they plug directly into the factory harness inside the headlight bucket there is no in-line fuse. I'm going to check my manual and see if there is an aux light fuse in the fuse box under the seat. If not, then I guess I'll have to order a couple of new lights. Could a bad switch cause this problem??
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    Since they plug directly into the factory harness inside the headlight bucket there is no in-line fuse. I'm going to check my manual and see if there is an aux light fuse in the fuse box under the seat. If not, then I guess I'll have to order a couple of new lights. Could a bad switch cause this problem??
    Ok, I found the fuse for my driving lights. There is an option fuse on the side of the main fuse box. It had a 10amp fuse in it that was blown. I tried another 10amp and it immediately blew, so then I tried a 15amp fuse and it did the same thing. Now I'm going to uninstall the driving lights and check all the wiring to see if I can find out where something is grounding out.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member 1r's Avatar
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    post #2 ! ifyour still blowing fuses I would say something some where is shorting out. I dont know what amperage the cobras require but I would think a 15 would be more then enough for it .
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    Very Active Member ace4aday's Avatar
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    Fuses are meant to be sacrificial. Putting in a bigger fuse is a good way to sacrifice your wiring instead. Consider yourself lucky the 15A blew too.
    De-badged '08 C109R featuring: GMan Industries Bully, Stealth Intakes, TRE, GBushing, GBat, and Riser Extender; Kuryakyn ISO Grips w/ThrottleBoss and Longhorn Offset Dually Highway Pegs; Cobra Light Bar and Fatty Freeway Bars; Suzuki Passenger Floorboards and Backrest; Ultimate Seats; and Auburn Leather Company Ultimate Legend Saddlebags mounted on Edge Saddlebag Brackets

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1r View Post
    post #2 ! ifyour still blowing fuses I would say something some where is shorting out. I dont know what amperage the cobras require but I would think a 15 would be more then enough for it .
    They only require a 10amp fuse. I wonder if the Cobra light switch could be bad. I'm going to disconnect the Cobra lights from the headlight bucket and then try a new fuse. If the fuse doesn't blow then this will narrow down where the short is. I'm thinking that it's somewhere between the headlight bucket and the
    switch and lights. Since the wires from the headlight bucket to the "option" 10 amp fuse are the factory wires.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ace4aday View Post
    Fuses are meant to be sacrificial. Putting in a bigger fuse is a good way to sacrifice your wiring instead. Consider yourself lucky the 15A blew too.
    yes I know, but I didn't figure a 15amp would be large enough to mess up the wiring. I was just using the 15amp as a test fuse. I wasn't going to continue to run it.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Well, here's what I have so far:

    I pulled the fuse. I then stuck my meter probes
    into the fuse plug, one probe on each side. I
    turned my probe on Volts/DC and turned on my
    key. The meter read 11.88volts with the driving
    light switch turned one way and when I flipped the
    switch the other way the numbers on my meter
    started going nuts.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Update:

    I disconnected my driving lights. I installed a new 10amp fuse in the
    "Option" fuse box on the side of the main fuse box. I turned on the
    key and the fuse still blew. I guess I'll have to take it to somebody
    to get it fixed. However, that will take 6months to a year for me to
    save up the $$. I might as well sell it and get what I can for it. The
    problem is not making a dang bit of sense to me.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Ok, I'm done. If anyone knows what could continue to blow the
    "options" fuse connected to the side of the main fuse box, please
    let me know. I've disconnected my driving lights which weren't
    connected to the "options" fuse, but they were plugged into the
    stock wiring harness and my fuel controller which wasn't
    connected to the "options" fuse box either. There's nothing
    connected to the "options" fuse, yet as soon as I turn on the
    key, the fuse pops. I'm done, so I'll probably be selling my bike
    really cheap, since I don't have the $$ to take it anywhere to
    get it fixed. Also, there's absolutely nothing in the service manual
    that helps.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    Ok, I'm done. If anyone knows what could continue to blow the
    "options" fuse connected to the side of the main fuse box, please
    let me know. I've disconnected my driving lights which weren't
    connected to the "options" fuse, but they were plugged into the
    stock wiring harness and my fuel controller which wasn't
    connected to the "options" fuse box either. There's nothing
    connected to the "options" fuse, yet as soon as I turn on the
    key, the fuse pops. I'm done, so I'll probably be selling my bike
    really cheap, since I don't have the $$ to take it anywhere to
    get it fixed. Also, there's absolutely nothing in the service manual
    that helps.
    I found something. I think it might be my "engine stop switch", I have
    no idea why the plugs for it are inside my headlight bucket, but they are.
    That's also where my driving lights plug into the wiring harness. Even
    though it didn't keep my bike from cranking, there's something wrong with it.
    I need to run a continuity test on it and see. I do know that when it's plugged
    in and I turn the key on, then the fuse pops. If it's unplugged and I turn the key
    on then the fuse is ok. I'm gonna try two more tests.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    I found something. I think it might be my "engine stop switch", I have
    no idea why the plugs for it are inside my headlight bucket, but they are.
    That's also where my driving lights plug into the wiring harness. Even
    though it didn't keep my bike from cranking, there's something wrong with it.
    I need to run a continuity test on it and see. I do know that when it's plugged
    in and I turn the key on, then the fuse pops. If it's unplugged and I turn the key
    on then the fuse is ok. I'm gonna try two more tests.
    Well, I think it's my engine kill switch $150, but my driving lights still don't work.
    I'm hoping that when I can replace the engine kill switch and re-connect the plug
    in the headlight bucket, then my driving lights will work. If my driving lights don't
    work, then I'll just remove them and install an HID light bulb in my headlight.
    Last edited by silveradols; 06-01-2012 at 04:27 PM.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    Well, I think it's my engine kill switch $150, but my driving lights still don't work.
    I'm hoping that when I can replace the engine kill switch and re-connect the plug
    in the headlight bucket, then my driving lights will work. If my driving lights don't
    work, then I'll just remove them and install an HID light bulb in my headlight.
    I'm going to take my kill switch apart and clean it first. I'm also going to run some continuity test on the
    wiring and fuse box. Hopefully, I'll be able to figure it out.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    I was wrong. My lightbar is the Suzuki OEM lightbar. I'm just going to remove it and go back to stock and see if the fuse still pops. Hopefully that will solve the problem. I going to just go with a HID headlight system instead.
    Last edited by silveradols; 06-16-2012 at 12:54 PM.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Well, I've got everything back to stock. I just need 1 screw that holds on the chrome piece.
    After I hooked the blinkers back up, I switched my bike on to test the blinkers. The fuse
    did not pop and the blinkers worked perfectly. This really bites, because I have no idea
    why my driving lights quit working. I tested the switch and wiring and everything was ok.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Could a bad ground or corroded connection keep blowing the "aux" fuse when my driving lights are plugged in? I think I'm going to re-install my driving lights and just connect them straight to the battery via an in-line fuse and relay.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Do I really need a relay to wire my driving lights directly to my battery thru a switch and in-line fuse? If so how do I wire it up and where does it go in the wiring?
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    After reding this thread again, I think you need to troubleshoot your wiring in sections. If the fuse blew with everything intact, then didn't blow when you unplugged the light bar then it is safe to assume that the wiring is bad beyond the plug. Next step is to check resistance to ground for the lead going to and from the light bar. If you have a short to ground as in a chafed wire, fix the wire. If it is in one of the sockets, fix or replace the socket. You seem to be bouncing around a bit. Troubleshooting is a process of elimination sometimes and working from one point to the next in a linear fashion.

    A relay is used mostly as a way to eliminate load on a switch. By installing a relay you can use the relay to switch the heavy load while using light gauge wiring and switches to switch the relay remotely. The need for a relay depends on the load that you need to switch. Typically for lights (except LED) the answer is yes, use a relay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin61 View Post
    After reding this thread again, I think you need to troubleshoot your wiring in sections. If the fuse blew with everything intact, then didn't blow when you unplugged the light bar then it is safe to assume that the wiring is bad beyond the plug. Next step is to check resistance to ground for the lead going to and from the light bar. If you have a short to ground as in a chafed wire, fix the wire. If it is in one of the sockets, fix or replace the socket. You seem to be bouncing around a bit. Troubleshooting is a process of elimination sometimes and working from one point to the next in a linear fashion.

    A relay is used mostly as a way to eliminate load on a switch. By installing a relay you can use the relay to switch the heavy load while using light gauge wiring and switches to switch the relay remotely. The need for a relay depends on the load that you need to switch. Typically for lights (except LED) the answer is yes, use a relay.
    That's just it. Looking at the wiring schematic it looks like stereo instructions. The wiring schematic doesn't even show the plug by the headlight. Can't I just the ohm setting on my meter to check continuity in the wiring from the plug in the headlight bucket to the "aux" fuse on the side of the fusebox?
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    That's just it. Looking at the wiring schematic it looks like stereo instructions. The wiring schematic doesn't even show the plug by the headlight. Can't I just the ohm setting on my meter to check continuity in the wiring from the plug in the headlight bucket to the "aux" fuse on the side of the fusebox?

    You said that with it unplugged, the fuse did not blow. I would think that the short is beyond that. Now you can certainly check the wiring for a short to ground at that plug to eliminate that section, but I thought you already had. You shouldn't need the schematic to do that. If there are two wires on the plug, one should be power, the other is likely ground. If one shows `12v the other should be ground. I will look at the schematic.
    \
    I looked but the maual I have is for a M109, I see that you have a c109. The plug you speak of is likely shown on a c109 schematic. The essence is the same. Find the short, then proceed from there.
    Last edited by Gone fishin'; 09-10-2012 at 09:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin61 View Post
    You said that with it unplugged, the fuse did not blow. I would think that the short is beyond that. Now you can certainly check the wiring for a short to ground at that plug to eliminate that section, but I thought you already had. You shouldn't need the schematic to do that. If there are two wires on the plug, one should be power, the other is likely ground. If one shows `12v the other should be ground. I will look at the schematic.
    yea, there's an oem plug in the headlight bucket that the driving lights plug in to. When I plug them in and turn on the key the fuse blows. 1 wire from the plug runs to the "aux" fuse and the other wire from the plug goes to ground, this ground runs throughout the whole wiring schematic, but everything else works ok. The other wire from the "aux" fuse goes to the ignition. This tells me that the "aux" is a switched power fuse.
    Last edited by silveradols; 09-10-2012 at 10:01 PM.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    Could a bad ground or corroded connection keep blowing the "aux" fuse when my driving lights are plugged in? I think I'm going to re-install my driving lights and just connect them straight to the battery via an in-line fuse and relay.

    It could be a bad connection or you could have a chafed wire. When you re-assembled, you may have moved the offending section away from the short.

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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin61 View Post
    It could be a bad connection or you could have a chafed wire. When you re-assembled, you may have moved the offending section away from the short.
    But my question is, can I use the "ohm" setting on my meter to check wire continuity?
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    But my question is, can I use the "ohm" setting on my meter to check wire continuity?
    Yes, that is how you check continuity. Also the setting to use for checking for a short to ground.

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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin61 View Post
    Yes, that is how you check continuity. Also the setting to use for checking for a short to ground.

    Ok, Thanks
    I'll check it tomorrow. Before I do anything though, I'm gonna make some jumper wires and connect my lights directly to the battery, just to make sure they still work too.
    Last edited by silveradols; 09-11-2012 at 02:41 PM.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    Ok, I found the fuse for my driving lights. There is an option fuse on the side of the main fuse box. It had a 10amp fuse in it that was blown. I tried another 10amp and it immediately blew, so then I tried a 15amp fuse and it did the same thing. Now I'm going to uninstall the driving lights and check all the wiring to see if I can find out where something is grounding out.
    sounds like your running the wrong wattage h3. They come in 35, 55 and 100 watts.
    35 watts is correct, and the ones from Napa seem to last longer.
    I always replace lights as a set
    Last edited by RadGen; 10-15-2012 at 03:15 AM.
    Suzuki windsheild, Cobra Fatty Bars, Suzuki LightBar, 8" Risers, Tank Bra, EMGO® "Big One" mirrors, Hard Chrome Big 3" Straights, Tsukayu hard bags, Russell Cycle Products Custom Saddle, Custom world rack and backrest, G-bushing, Bully FIC and TRE, Sage Brush Designs engine guard chaps. Metzler 880 tires

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