*Turn off your caps lock! It is considered to be yelling, and is rude unless used in the proper format!*
Commonly asked questions:
Q: When do I need fuel management? A: When you change both your pipe, and intake. This includes "Ducks Mod", and modifying the stock exhaust, in any way. Some report that the bike runs better with fuel management, even when completely stock, but you need it when you modify both intakes (not including just K&N filters), and exhaust. You can safely run your bike without fuel management, if you only change one, or the other.
Q: What is the best fuel management? A: There are several choices for fuel management. The correct answer is which ever one suits you the best. 1. Cobra fi2000r, is great for self tuning, and is very economical. It can add fuel, but cannot remove fuel. Alot of people have great success with this unit. 2. Cobra power Pro is a new auto tuner, has been out for 6 months but has great reviews so far. 3. Power Commander III USB, is best when used for a bike that you want to have DYNO tuned, and pull every bit of horse power out of the bike. If you were to change intakes, or exhaust, it is recommended to have bike re-tuned. There are generic tunes for several set ups, but for optimal performance, a dyno tune is required. 4. Power Commander V w/auto tune, and B&B auto-tuner. These units introduce a oxygen sensor to the exhaust. This requires holes drilled into exhaust, and a "bung" being welded onto pipe. These units are a bit more expensive, but continuously tune your bike while you ride it. So as the conditions change, so does your air fuel mixture. 5. There are others out there as well, but these seem to be the most popular.
Q: Does a 280mm tire, fit on a stock rim? A: Yes, but as per the tire manufactor, it is NOT recommended. There are a few guys that run it without a problem, but lets face it, you wouldn't put 33" BF Goodrich Mudders, on your Civic... would you? Sure you can make them fit, but it's not recommended!
The largest tire that can be SAFELY mounted on a stock rim is a Metzler 260, a Dunlop 250, or Avon 250. Before you ignore me, and listen to someone who does not have a clue, please take the time to read this! If you're considering a 280 on stock rim... read this (UPDATED 7/03 More Pics)
Q: Where can I get a clear tail light? A: Many people on here have purchaced Clear Alternative lights. Alot of problems plagued these lights, and most were returned to the manufacture. Some members have gotten their new generation lights, and have written good reviews on them.
If you are looking for just a clear lens tail light to mimic the "LE" tail light, you can change the lens to clear. The leds under your stock light are red. There is a how-to on here. https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...red+tail+light.
Q: Why do I have oil coming out of my LEFT airbox? A: The most common reason for this is, overfilling the oil. Some bikes, even when new, or if dealer changes oil, have this issue. Simply drain some oil, and refer to the 15-3 method of checking oil. If the problem does not fix itself, then you can make a "Oil catch can". Installing an Oil Catch Can
Q: How do I remove the body panels on my bike? A: How to Remove M109R Panels
1- remove 2 push clips on inner side -- push center tab in and pull clips out.
2- remove 2- 4mm allen bolts on each side of nacell and pull the unit apart.
3- pull the bulb wire off and remove the headlight unit.
4- remove the screws from inner side of nacell the break apart the 2 pieces and remove the headlight itself.
SIDE COVERS on each side of the seat must be removed next ! due to the hidden bolt for the rear fender.
do one side at a time but both are the same process.
1- remove the seat
2- remove the push clips by the tank ( on each side)
3- remove the black lower side pieces ( right side has a bolt) these pieces are held in by 2 pressure tabs. be firm but careful.
4- the side plastics are held on by 3 pressure tabs. once bolts are removed and pressure tabs released -- you must slid the plastic panel towards the front of the bike . the front tab is a slide tab not pressure tab
5- the left side has the cable to release the seat attached.. just turn the cable til it lines up with the cut out and pull it out..
6- remove the 2 bolts holding on the rear seat or cowl cover.
1- remove the 6 bolts -- 4 on the top and 2 on each side .
2- there are 2 screws on under side bt the turn lamps that must be removed to release the fender.
3- disconnect the plug for rear tail lamp.
4- remove 4 screws holding in the tail lamp.
1- remove the 12mm bolt, and side covers. (see side cover removal)
2- use a socket extension to hold the tank up while you unplug connectors -- 1 for the speedometer and 1 for the fuel pump. disconnect the fuel line by pinching the blue plastic connector and pull apart-- some gas will come out -- not much-- have a rag ready.
3- slide tank towards the back and up and off.
4- remove the screw on the plastic speedometer cover and slide off.
5- remove the 4 screws that hold the plastic speedometer cover on to the gauge.
FRAME HEAD COVER AND RADIATOR SIDE COVERS
1- remove the upper push clip
2- remove the 2 bolts on each side
3- remove the 2 lower clip down bottom side -- pull center of clip out then the whole clips pulls out -- 2 piece clip
4- pull apart the upper neck plastics -- turn the handle bars to do this easier, then pull apart the sides and lowers -- be careful -- they will pull apart. once removed you will see the screws that hold them together on the inside.
1- remove the 6 bolts and slide forwards
1- remove the 2 bolts from risers.
2- remove the small phillips screws that hold on the cover.
Q: How do I remove the wheels off my 9? A: FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL
• Remove the brake calipers
!, left and right.
• Loosen the two axle pinch bolts
" on the right front fork leg.
• Loosen the front axle with the special tool.
Hexagon socket (24 mm)
• Raise the front wheel off the ground and support the motorcy-
cle with a jack or a wooden block.
• Draw out the front axle and remove the front wheel.
After removing the front wheel, fit the calipers temporarily to the
• Remove the collar
Do not operate the brake lever while removing the calipers.
REAR WHEEL REMOVAL
• Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolt.
• Remove the cotter pin
• Hold the rear axle with the special tool and remove the axle
• Raise the rear wheel off the ground and support the motorcycle with a jack or wooden block.
• Draw out the rear axle and coller.
• Remove the rear wheel.
Q: How do I "De-Badge" my bike? A: First, let the bike sit in the sun for a while. I used fishing line, and put it between the tank, and the badge. I moved it back and forth like a sawing motion, until I reached the end. Then I used a little WD-40, and/or Goo-Gone, and a CLEAN RAG, to remove excess double sided tape left behind. The rest of the stickers come off fairly easily, after letting it sit in the sun. If it is cold outside, and no sunlight is available, I recommend using a hair dryer to heat the areas up a little.
Q: How do I fix the "clunk" when I shift into second ear? A: 1st, THIS IS NORMAL! SO IS THE VIBRATION YOU GET AROUND 3500 rpm. There are a few things you can do. First, try "shiftin like you mean it" Don't try to ease her into 2nd. Shift it with meaning!
Another thing to try is pre-loading the shifter. Pull up on the shifter slightly, then pull clutch in while still giving pressure, and it will fall right in place.
One more option is shown in this thread: https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...2nd+gear+clunk
I also recommend getting the shift star kit, available from DLP.
Last edited by Board Support-1; 12-29-2013 at 11:01 PM.
FI light code key: C00: None - No defective part C12: Crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) - Pick-up coil signal, Generator C13: Intake air pressure sensor #2 (IAPS #2) - For Front cylinder C14: Throttle position sensor (TPS) - (Note *1) C15: Engine coolant temp. sensor (ECTS) C17: Intake air pressure sensor #1 (IAPS #1) - For Rear cylinder C21: Intake air temp. sensor (IATS) C23: Tip-over sensor (TOS) C24: Ignition signal #1 (IG coil #1.1) - For Rear cylinder C25: Ignition signal #2 (IG coil #2.1) - For Front cylinder C26: Ignition signal #1 (IG coil #1.2) - For Rear cylinder C27: Ignition signal #2 (IG coil #2.2) - For Front cylinder C28: Secondary throttle valve actuator (STVA) C29: Secondary throttle position sensor (STPS) - (Note *2) C31: Gear position signal (GP switch) C32: Injector signal #1 (FI #1) - For Rear Cylinder C33: Injector signal #2 (FI #2) - For Front Cylinder C40: Idle speed control valve (ISC valve) C41: Fuel pump control system (FP control system) - Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Relay C42: Ignition switch signal (IG switch signal) - Anti-theft C44: Heated oxygen sensor #2 (HO2S #2) - For E-02, 19, 24 C46: Exhaust control valve actuator (EXCVA) C49: PAIR control solenoid valve #2 (PAIR valve #2) - Except for E-03, 28, 33 C60: Cooling fan control system - Cooling fan relay C61: PAIR control solenoid valve #1 (PAIR #1) C64: Heated oxygen sensor #1 (HO2S #1) - For E-02, 19
Torque Specs for the M109: Thanks L.T.T.
Q: How do I post big pictures, on a thread? A: When you are typing a reply, you will need the internet address for a pic to make larger.
To get this from a pic on a website:
Right click on the pic, scroll down to properties. A box will pop up. In the middle of the box, you will have something called "address (url)" with a "www....." following it. Highlight this address, right click, select copy.
To get this from an online album ( such as m109riders album):
Click "User CP" from the menu up top
Select "Picture and albums" from the menu on the left
Click on one of your albums or make one
Click on a pic in your album or upload one
When looking at the pic, below the pic is the "www" address, highlight and copy this address.
Now go to your post.....
With the cursor blinking in the box, click on the yellow box with the mountain in the box. (its in between the globe and the quotation box) A little box will pop up. Delete the "http" that automatically pops up in the text box, now paste your image address in that box and hit ok. Your image should pop up.
Another way you can post an image from an online album
Go to your picture you want to post.
Below the pic is the "www" address and an "IMG" a.ddress.
If you copy the "IMG" address, you can paste this straight in the thread you are typing. https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=126989
Q: What is a TRE, JSD-3M, or GI-Pro? A: All 3 of these are essentially the same. TRE stands for Timing Retard Eliminator. These are plug and play items, and are very easy to install. These will make the throttle response less choppy, and will move the rev limiter in 5th gear from 6500 rpm, to 7400 rpm. The GI-Pro is the only TRE with a gear indicator, that can be mounted on your bike, to show you what gear you are in. These devices trick the bike into thinking it is in 4th gear, while you are in 1st,2nd,and 3rd, thus eliminating the timing normally retarded in these gears. You can also make you own. Directions here: https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...ome+built+atre
Q: My bike is acting like it's not getting fuel. (AKA "limp mode") A:*ATTENTION*Anyone having this problem, CHECK YOUR CABLES FOR YOUR S.E.T. VALVE!! It has been brought to my attention, that this may be the cause for your issues. If you are running a stock exhaust, make sure the cables are the same tension. You can adjust these on both sides of the cables. If you do not have stock exhaust, pull your SET wire from the ECU.
I believe this issue is the SET is out of adjustment, and/or the SET cam is bad. If either of these things happen, it will put you into limp mode (according to the manual, you may or may not get a FI light!). SO, if you are in limp mode, you will know because when you shut bike off and back on, and it runs fine, but then does it again shortly afterward. Limp mode is designed to put the bike in a "safe zone" so no further damage can be done. I truly believe this will fix your problem.
Once you have checked these... Put your "special tool" back into the connector, then with the cut off switch turned "ON", TURN THE KEY ON AND OFF 3 TIMES. THIS WILL CLEAR THE CODES FROM THE ECM! Problem solved!
Thank you to Matt, and Tony for you help with this!!!
Thank you Dan and Tiny for being the guinea pig's!
Q: Will rain effect my after market intakes, or Ducks mod? A: NO!!! Take a shop vac hose, stick it out the window one day when it is raining. The amount of water you will suck up will be very minimal, if any, and that has way more suction than these intakes. Look here if you need more peace of mind than just my word: cant freaking decide (intakes)
Q: When running a rear tire on the front of my bike (160/60/R18 etc.), do I have to run the tire in reverse? A: Yes! The tire should be mounted in reverse! (directional arrow, tracking the OPPOSITE way) This quote is right off the Metzler web-site: Rear tires can be mounted at front wheels?
When producing tires, the top cap is heated with an angle bump on the carcass. To prevent the detachment of the assembled edges the tire has to be mounted (concerning the main stress: acceleration force at the rear wheel or wheel brake force at the front) corresponding to the respective declaration.
Therefore the declaration of the driving direction at the tires sidewall is a very important safety regard and has to be noticed absolute. It is not allowed to mount front tires at rear wheels. In case you intend to mount a rear tire on a front wheel it has to be assembled contrary to the driving direction declaration (direction of the arrow at the tires sidewall). Please observe the standards in your country. In any doubts we kindly ask you to consult your dealer. 160/60 Front