Replaceing the clutch cable step by step
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  1. #1
    Very Active Member gooroo's Avatar
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    Default Replaceing the clutch cable step by step

    First off, I want to thank Dickschiff, photos and directions. The directions were in German, which I translated and changed somewhat based on my own expirence and in the use of english. So the M109 in the pics are not mine.

    Tools you may need.

    1 - 4 mm Allen key (longer end for deeper mounted screw on the middle engine cover)
    1 open end wrench 13 mm or ½ inch depending on the cable nuts
    1 channel lock pliers
    1 needle nose pliers
    1 snips or wire cutters
    String (Optional)


    Now let's look at the cable and realize the two plastic binders connecting the old clutch cable with the electronic cables. Take the snips and cut the two parts quickly away!



    Now we see the black rubber dust cover Suzuki added to the lever. The thing is a bit stubborn, but it is best to simply pull it backwards until it folds down and pushes away.



    Now use the 4 mm Allen key and remove the Middle engine cover (chrome plastic) on the left. The three screws are marked here. The bottom sits slightly deeper inside, so use the longer key!



    Loosen the locknut and the cable lever screw. The grooves in each should be lined up to remove the cable.



    Now drag the coupling cable left and pull the cable out of the slot.


    Then rotate the cable forward and push down... the cable barrel comes out below!
    This reveals the cable barrel with plastic cover... which is used to probably lower friction? And allows better rotation of the cylinder in the hole? Who knows?


    The mount on the engine is somewhat awkward. The cable runs through a tube and is then bolted to a cable bracket (looks like a hook) with two nuts. The nuts are located here in the photo below. The cable then is attached by the end barrel to the clutch lever The Coupling lever has a back off spring and is fixed with a screw. I have released the spring and lever screw so that I get more space. You can do it but it does not have to be done if you have smaller hands then I.





    OPTIONAL

    This is the mysterious fishing line. I have tied it twice around the cable so it is secure and keeps it from separating. This saves time and simplifies the routing of the new cable enormously.


    Tie the fishing line to the top (handle) end of the old cable.



    Loosen the upper fixation nut on hook which attached the curved metal portion of the clutch cable to the clutch bracket. The metal end is too thick to remove from the bracket seat, therefore press it down to get it out.



    Now only the actual clutch cable is unthreaded and should be moved backward unloosening at the rear of the bracket opening.


    Now it is more complicated: to get the end removed from clamp's coupling lever, you rotate the cable from the bottom up and the fixation cylinder then left to move it out. It may take some jiggling of the metal portion of the clutch cable to get it to slide out smoothly.




    This looks a lucky winner! The cable barrel is coming out!




    The cable is now at the top and bottom free and you can pull it out carefully.


    Pull it through calmly without jerking it because it can catch on various portions of the bike. This is where you can use the fishing line.



    Pull the cable from the bottom upwards. The fishing line can be tied to the new cable and pulled through. Slide the cable simultaneously below. There is a motor mount where the cable must go around and it can interfere with two screws.



    First mount the new cable below near the engine. Slide the clutch barrel back into place on the clutch lever. This can be tricky because the cable must be pulled up over the top of the mount before the barrel which slides into the lever. It is a good idea to add some Grease to the area that the cable barrel. For those of you using the new Barnett cable with the plastic sheath over the barrel, you may need to take a small screw driver and lightly pry the hole open a little to accommodate the clutch cable barrel.


    Re-insert the cable behind the cable bracket and then insert the threaded metal cable slide back into the cable bin the hook of the engine and fit in the thread from below. (make sure one on the nuts is on the top of the bracket and the other below) The tighten them.



    If you have loosened the return order spring and the clutch lever, set it in the original place and tighten the screw.


    Near the lever be sure to slide the rubber boot back onto the cable first


    Then fit in the barrel into the cylinder from below the clutch lever handle insuring that it is routed in the cable channel.



    Now we adjust the Coupling play. The Coupling lever should have between 10 and 15 mm "play". Move the lever back and forth until it feels light resistance.


    To set the cable, you need to re-thread the locknut and the cable lever screw. When the cable play is correct tighten the lock screw.



    Replace the rubber dust cover and you are ready for testing.







    They say it's not the size that counts - They are obviously HD owners?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member whitee's Avatar
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    Excellent! Well done and thanks.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member hunt4steve's Avatar
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    WHOA....that finger just doesn't look right......



    double jointed I assume......



    Nice write up, I'll be using this info to replace my cables with 3+" longer cables.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member nukeblade's Avatar
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    Talking

    WoW!!! Great job! Thanks

    I was just thinking of posting a question asking what tools are needed so when I do some road trippin this summer I can take only the tools that are necessary

    22k miles on the original cable I always pack a spare on road trips.

    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by nukeblade; 01-07-2010 at 03:50 AM.
    In truth Victory

  5. #5
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    Thanks to gooroo for the great translation.

    @hunt4steve: My finger is completely IN ORDER! LOL!

    I would like to add, that I really recommend the use of the fishing line, because pulling the new cable through without it would be a real pain and might require the disassembly of a lot of covers...

    Dickschiff
    Phantasy is our only weapon to battle reality!

  6. #6
    Very Active Member "Rumba"'s Avatar
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    Default ;-)

    very clear and precise step by step... thanks bro.
    that finger special for the G spot. he he he

  7. #7
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    Default Thanks for the heads up!

    It looks so easy even a caveman like me can do it.

  8. #8

    Default Sweeet

    Did it. Took 30 minutes tops. The wire is the best idea ever. Thanks, man. You were a lifesaver.

    By the way, anybody have any idea why clutch cables snap so easily on this bike? It's the second one I own and on both of them I had clocked less than 5000 miles before the popped. Same place, too. The little nut right at the lower end.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Bullrider's Avatar
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    perfect!!!!!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member jdmitchell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaptec View Post
    Did it. Took 30 minutes tops. The wire is the best idea ever. Thanks, man. You were a lifesaver.

    By the way, anybody have any idea why clutch cables snap so easily on this bike? It's the second one I own and on both of them I had clocked less than 5000 miles before the popped. Same place, too. The little nut right at the lower end.

    Keeping the ends covered in lube and adjusting the cable so that there is no undue tension on the cable will help out with longevity issues.

    You can run, but you will just die tired..............

  11. #11

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    THANX FOR THE HELP BRO, U MADE IT EASY

  12. #12
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    I just bought 1 of those barnett cables from DLP & it doexnt seem to fit rite. It was hitting on the frame when I installed it at the back end? It looks to be a lil long. Cant even adjust it with touching the frame with the metal hosing? Maybe they sent me the wrong cable It was also really tough to hook the ends in after it was installed, no clutch play what so ever! Maybe they use different cables for lenght in the 06? Look at the pics guys. tell me what you think? one is with new silver cable, other is with stock cable housing put back in..... thanks
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  13. #13
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    Default It's Better Than NEW.... NOW

    Went over to Zuki dealer & picked up a stock clutch cable this morning. Still tooo tight to install it on both ends. Took pipes back off again & side over. As soon as I removed some pressure off the 6 clutch cover bolts everything opened up fine & free wheelin. I wa amazed!!!! Anyway I took it apart again & found out that you shouldn't do a clutch job after working 10 hours at your day job. Turns out I had 2 clutch plates reversed order in the clutch basket. I studied the install diagram for the 3rd time & figured it out! WOW!! What a difference it makes! 2 quarters of freeplay & clutch catches in the middle just like when it was new, I guess (I bought it used). Looks like Ill make it to Bike Nite in Lansdale,Pa.!!!! Thanks for the input from this site!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  14. #14
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    Default It's Better Than NEW.... NOW

    Went over to Zuki dealer & picked up a stock clutch cable this morning. Still tooo tight to install it on both ends. Took pipes back off again & side over. As soon as I removed some pressure off the 6 clutch cover bolts everything opened up fine & free wheelin. I wa amazed!!!! Anyway I took it apart again & found out that you shouldn't do a clutch job after working 10 hours at your day job. Turns out I had 2 clutch plates reversed order in the clutch basket. I studied the install diagram for the 3rd time & figured it out! WOW!! What a difference it makes! 2 quarters of freeplay & clutch catches in the middle just like when it was new, I guess (I bought it used). Looks like Ill make it to Bike Nite in Lansdale,Pa.!!!! Thanks for the input from this site!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  15. #15
    Very Active Member TORQ's Avatar
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    Exclamation Wish he would do some more!

    This was very well done.... Sure wish he'd do one on our Throttle Push Pulls
    Owner of The Rarest M109R, THE 2006 Burple. THE ONE Suzuki Promised, TO NEVER make again!! Do to IT BEING, JUST to FAST for the General PUBLIC!

  16. #16
    Very Active Member mojo!k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TORQ View Post
    This was very well done.... Sure wish he'd do one on our Throttle Push Pulls
    ummm you mean, this one?
    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=barnett+cable

  17. #17
    Very Active Member tydaniels's Avatar
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    Default How to

    Great instructions, I just finished installing barnett clutch line, now on to the throttle cables

  18. #18
    Very Active Member bISHOP20000's Avatar
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    Man I couldnt have done it with out this write up ....thks alot bro

  19. #19
    Very Active Member rudeboy109's Avatar
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    very well done, great pics
    08,M109R2[250 Dunnie, PC3, stebel air horn, K&Ns, flame mirrors, debaged, gutted pipes, suzuki engine guards, piaa hyperwhite headlight, back off modulator, gipro atre, front motor mounts, debeavered, Kuryakyn Iso Grips, Factory Pro star kit, G-Man shifter bushing, Guardian Bell, Catch can mod....... more to come

  20. #20
    Very Active Member The M's Avatar
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    I thought I had time to spare at 8k and I was wrong. So yes, you'll feel better knowing your ticking time bomb is gone!

  21. #21
    Very Active Member antmor69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dommy View Post
    Excellent how to.

    Just a question.
    I've bought a new cable from a Suzuki dealer, I thought just to get only the cable (for info, I didn't see this "how to" yet when I ordered it).

    I think I've got the entire cable assembly.
    Is it stictly necessary to get the entire assembly, or is it enough to get only the cable to replace it? I do not understand completely this from the pics here.
    This is what I got, in the attachment.

    Thanks.
    That's how it comes. You replace the whole thing.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Thank you .
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  23. #23
    Very Active Member GODRA's Avatar
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    Ive seen a guys a cable put on the inside of that bracket and it was summer and he was wondering how on a long stop and go ride his fan never came on and nothing showed up out of the warning lights. So he turned it on and let it idle on a hot day and then when it came on it didnt spin because the cable was touching it! So he moved the cable out of the way and what do you know it was ON. So watch out for that. I dint think urs should block the fan because it looks straight but his cable was curving around and thats what caused it to lean in the fan.


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  24. #24
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mo H View Post
    This was a great and easier to do because I have bike tore down. I do want to know how much play should there be in the pull cable or should it be tight, I still have a little play. Thanks.
    Atleast 2 quarters worth. Just stack 2 $.25's in the gap at the lever and adjust the gap until they barely fall out.

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  25. #25
    Very Active Member Mo H's Avatar
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    Sorry just realized I posted in wrong board

  26. #26
    Very Active Member carnivor's Avatar
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    Thanks soooooo much for the write up Gooroo,you have made the job a lot easier for those of us that maybe mechanically illiterate.....okay am mechanically illiterate lol


    Sent from the bowels of awesomness

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    Very Active Member zzuke10's Avatar
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    How do I view images?
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  28. #28
    Very Active Member "Hunter"'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzuke10 View Post
    How do I view images?
    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sh...=123531&page=4
    "Hunter"
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  29. #29
    Very Active Member zzuke10's Avatar
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    Link does not open.Am I doing something wrong or is there another way to open it, or access this video?
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  30. #30
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzuke10 View Post
    Link does not open.Am I doing something wrong or is there another way to open it, or access this video?

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