Throttle Sputter / Poor Response / Fuel Issue / Fuel Pump / Fuel Filter
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Thread: Throttle Sputter / Poor Response / Fuel Issue / Fuel Pump / Fuel Filter

  1. #1
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    Talking Throttle Sputter / Poor Response / Fuel Issue / Fuel Pump / Fuel Filter

    Wanted to thank everyone out there for all the good information regarding this topic. Never would have thought about taking the ignition off and removing the back cover to see if the plastic piece inside is cracked causing an issue only at a certain rpm. Also saw the posts about checking the connection from the Now to what my was / is doing. First I thought it was a dirty fuel filter. Sputtering at 4K RPM in third gear. I was going to get to it eventually but trying to come home from work and she started to sputter above 2K rpm I knew I had to do something. I nursed it home and realized what riding a motorcycle like a normal person must feel like. :yikes: She has the power commander with cobra pipes and K&N air filters. Changed the spark plugs with the OEM plugs, cleaned and recharged the air filters and replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I though the Amazon Special for $65 fuel pump would do the trick. Well yes and no. I feel I have identified the problem but not completely solved it. She still has a sputter at 4500 - 5000 RPM in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. Think my fuel pump is "you get what you pay for". Maybe the impeller is garbage or it would work great on a 750 or something but not the 9. Which brings me to my question thank you for hanging in there. I have seen the cost of just the fuel pump range anywhere from $250 to $375 and up.

    Does anyone out there had a good experience with where you purchased your fuel pump and might recommend a website?

    Thanks again and keep the shiny side up!

    :bigthumbsup:

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    Does anyone out there had a good experience with where you purchased your fuel pump and might recommend a website?

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    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    Have you tried diagnosing using the service manual? I would think if the fuel pump was acting up it would give you a code of some sort. You might have to go into the dealer mode to get more info.

    OEM for $245

    http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...r-2006-08.html
    Last edited by UVATom; 09-26-2020 at 07:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by UVATom View Post
    Have you tried diagnosing using the service manual? I would think if the fuel pump was acting up it would give you a code of some sort. You might have to go into the dealer mode to get more info.

    OEM for $245

    http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...r-2006-08.html
    Will double check everything using the Service Manual again. If if roll the throttle normal no issues it is only when I drop a gear and hammer the throttle or shift up and hammer the throttle i get the sputter at 4500 - 5000 RPM. Thanks for the link. Have always had really good luck with Oneida Suzuki.

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    New Pump installed and I think it got better our that may just myself telling me it got better to make myself feel better. 4500-5000 rpm engine sputters once or twice and then will start pulling again above 5K rpm. Not sure there is a harmonic vibration causing something fishy to go on. Think I am going to raise the white flag and take it to a Dealer for a "check and advise"

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    This sounds a lot like a problem I am having. Mine started out that way and then it became much worse. Now I twist the throttle and it coughs and spits like mad. I have the POD 300 with my PCV which was recording random drops to 0RPM while riding. Switched Power Commander - no help. Guy from Dynojet did remote hookup and he couldn't find the problem but verified the injector signal looked to be dropping out. I hooked up a cheap hand held oscilloscope ($40 Yeapook from Amazon) and sure enough there are random drops in the fuel injector firing signal. I will now be testing resistance of every wire in the harness. If I don't find something there I guess it's time for a new ECU.

    PS, go on YouTube and find out how to put it in dealer mode and check codes before looking at all the injector stuff. Make sure your plugs are all firing too. You could also run some Techron through it to make sure the injectors are clean and not clogged.

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    Appreciate the heads up on finding how to put it in Dealer Mode and check codes. I have a feeling like yours may be electrical. No active F1 codes. Just changed the plugs and the front cylinder top is just a blast. So far I have a new fuel pump, new fuel filter, cleaned and recharged my K&N air filters and new spark plugs. Think there may be a harmonic vibration at 4-5 K rpm causing the electrical to cut out. Going to double check the ignition and ensure the plastic backing isn't cracked on the inside. Saw that on a previous post. If i come up zeros may have to have the Dealer check and advise. Need a new rear tire so hopefully they can help me out. Have a pretty good relationship with them.

    The thing that get me after I replaced the plugs she ran like her old self but that only lasted a few days and now hammering 3 or 4 right at 4500 - 5000 rpm feels like it cut out coughs and hammers beyond 5000 rpm.

    Driving me nuts.

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    Don`t torture yourself any more : take it to the dealer , have them hook it up to their specialized computer and detect what is wrong with the bike once and for all . I know, it is going to cost you , but after reading all of what you have done to the bike , all the parts you replaced and the time that you have spent , man , you need a break .

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    Quote Originally Posted by ABQ109er View Post
    Appreciate the heads up on finding how to put it in Dealer Mode and check codes. I have a feeling like yours may be electrical. No active F1 codes. Just changed the plugs and the front cylinder top is just a blast. So far I have a new fuel pump, new fuel filter, cleaned and recharged my K&N air filters and new spark plugs. Think there may be a harmonic vibration at 4-5 K rpm causing the electrical to cut out. Going to double check the ignition and ensure the plastic backing isn't cracked on the inside. Saw that on a previous post. If i come up zeros may have to have the Dealer check and advise. Need a new rear tire so hopefully they can help me out. Have a pretty good relationship with them.

    The thing that get me after I replaced the plugs she ran like her old self but that only lasted a few days and now hammering 3 or 4 right at 4500 - 5000 rpm feels like it cut out coughs and hammers beyond 5000 rpm.

    Driving me nuts.

    If replacing the plugs actually made a difference, maybe it was the physical action of moving the plug wires (or other wires) around that really made the difference, not the plugs themselves.

    1. The top plug caps are COP's, so those are self contained. I would check the wires/plugs for the COP's to make sure there is no issue with the contacts where the wires connect to the COP's or where the wires terminate in the connector.
    2. The side plugs use traditional caps, wires and separate coils. I would check all of those parts that may have been effected by movement while changing the plugs.
    3. Make sure the COP's are fully seated, mine worked their way up until they were only hanging on by a few threads. (should feel/hear a slight click when fully seated)
    4. Could try swapping the COP positions to see if that creates a different result.
    5. Did you do anything else at the time you changed your plugs?
    Last edited by Kratos109; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:06 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Syler View Post
    This sounds a lot like a problem I am having. Mine started out that way and then it became much worse. Now I twist the throttle and it coughs and spits like mad. I have the POD 300 with my PCV which was recording random drops to 0RPM while riding. Switched Power Commander - no help. Guy from Dynojet did remote hookup and he couldn't find the problem but verified the injector signal looked to be dropping out. I hooked up a cheap hand held oscilloscope ($40 Yeapook from Amazon) and sure enough there are random drops in the fuel injector firing signal. I will now be testing resistance of every wire in the harness. If I don't find something there I guess it's time for a new ECU.

    PS, go on YouTube and find out how to put it in dealer mode and check codes before looking at all the injector stuff. Make sure your plugs are all firing too. You could also run some Techron through it to make sure the injectors are clean and not clogged.
    FWIW.....I had a similar problem in 2nd gear @2-2500 rpm's, it was a sporadic event during first year of purchasing pre-owned bike with 3k miles. I started using gas additive regularly and the problem finally cleared. I feel your frustration, hope you solve the problem 'soon'!

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