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How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

86K views 183 replies 94 participants last post by  thevili 
#1 · (Edited)
http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0024.jpg
This is a comparison of the OEM Suzuki bones (left) and a set of aftermarket bones (right). Note the slightly longer length of the aftermarket bones. These bones are made by Jason...

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0025.jpg
First off, prepare your M109R to be lifted. There is a shield plate that you must remove before lifting the bike. Make sure to properly support the bike both front and rear. Unless you want 600lbs of motorcycle landing on top of you while your wrenching on the bike. Ask a friend to help if you can.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0027.jpg
This is the shield plate found under the bike. Once removed, set it aside til your done.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0028.jpg
Now lift the bike at or near the center of balance. You don't want the bike to easily tilt forward or rearward.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0029.jpg
Remove the chrome cover over the drive shaft. Remove the (2) screws holding the electronics box and let it hang down out of the way. Remove the chrome cover bracket (shown). Set it aside for later.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0030.jpg
Removed the electronics bracket and set it aside.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0031.jpg
Now you have access to the suspension. You will be removing (3) bolts. Bolt 1 connects the large end of the bones to the frame. Bolt 2 connects both small ends of the bones to the suspension. Bolt 3 connects the spring over shock to the suspension. Starting with bolt 3 is recommended, with the spring over shock disconnected. The spring over shock will drop down out of your way and you can then remove bolts 2 and 1

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0032.jpg
A 19mm socket on 1/2 inch drive along with a 17mm wrench will do the job on the left side. A 19mm (or 3/4) inch wrench and 17mm will do the right side.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0033.jpg
Oooppsss, had to massage one of the bones. Looks like a little too much weld filler and powdercoat won't let the bolt through. Time to whip it with a round course file. About 30-45 mins and the bolt moves easily in the bone.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0034.jpg
Install the new bones. Make sure to use some good quality grease on the bones. Note: Bolt up the bones first and leave the spring over shock for last. You will need a floor jack to lift the rear tire until the shock and suspension line up. Make sure all the bolts are tight.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0035.jpg
Put everything back together. Clean up any left over grease or fingerprints. Place a couple of pieces of wood for the rear tire to sit on when you lower the bike to the ground. Otherwise, you won't be able to remove the bike lift.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0036.jpg
Make sure to support the bike when you lower it. Once back on the wheels, it will tilt.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0037.jpg
Ahhh,,, Now doesn't that look better! THIS is the way I think the bike should come from the factory.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0038.jpg
Sit on the bike and test the action of the suspension. Make sure it does not bind or do anything obviously wrong.

http://www.buttrynet.com/external/M109/Pict0039.jpg
Now wash the bike up and go for a ride.... :bigthumbsup:

Edit: Had a server failure and lost some pics. Sorry folks..
 

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#157 ·
Well, I tried and tried. I got bolt #3 loose finally, but after about an hour of trying to get bolt #2 to budge, I gave up. I'm not a muscle builder, but I'm no wimp either. That thing would not budge. I broke two sockets trying. Anyone in the Hampton Roads area of Virginia that could help me out?? I have a lift. I have a buddy that got an air compressor for Christmas, so I'm gonna see if he can swing by and get these loose for me. Other than that, I dunno what other options I have. :'(
 
#159 ·
Or a hammer, anything to hit the wrench with some impact force.

I broke two of mine loose by jacking the bike up, putting the wrench on the nut, then lowering the bike down so the weight of the bike turned the wrench. The other I whacked the wrench with a hammer. Easier to break them loose with the bike sitting on the ground too, at least for some of them.

And it's usually easier to break a nut and bolt loose by turning the bolt instead of the nut, especially if the nut has a lock washer on it.
 
#160 ·
Or a hammer, anything to hit the wrench with some impact force.

I broke two of mine loose by jacking the bike up, putting the wrench on the nut, then lowering the bike down so the weight of the bike turned the wrench. The other I whacked the wrench with a hammer. Easier to break them loose with the bike sitting on the ground too, at least for some of them.

And it's usually easier to break a nut and bolt loose by turning the bolt instead of the nut, especially if the nut has a lock washer on it.
Yeah those lock nuts can be a real biotch. It'll take some real grunting and farting to get them loose.

Nathan
 
#161 ·
Ahhhh.. finally got it today. We didn't need the impact
wrench, just some elbow grease from me and my buddy.
Having a friend help with install is a definite plus! Thanks
to this awesome how-to, the install went flawlessly other
than me trying to get these nuts loose.
 
#163 ·
Did the drop

Did my Drop yesterday, and had little issues. A mallet to loosen the nuts, A Plastic Litter box to hold up the back tire, and a 6 pack to sweetin the deal.
Bike looks great dropped 2.25. I am getting the engine gaurd tommorow from DLP. If the step by step instructions were as good as these I am set.

Thanks :hot::hot::hot::a18::a18::a18:
 
#166 ·
I know the how to on this is from 2006 .. but man i followed it to a T and whoa! nice post it guided me all the way thru .. Im a big #$%^& so only used2 inch bones .. but it drops it alot.. I post pics soonish , I have not posted pics of my bike ever.. I am way behind on posting new mods .. but if i wait 1 more week or so .. i have the new chrome rims on there and post on stock buike and now w/ mods!.. again Great post!
 
#169 ·
Hello!

I have little doubt!

With these bones can reach a few inches off the bike?
A que te refieres Faquiko? No se si he entendido tu pregunta, pero estas piezas estan diseñadas para bajar la suspension trasera de la moto. Tienes la opcion de bajar entre una (1) pulgada (2.5 centimetros) hasta tres (3) pulgadas o unos 7.6 centimetros depediendo de cual compres. Tambien las venden ajustables pero suelen costar mucho mas:bigthumbsup:.
 
#176 ·
M109Dreamer:
You do not need nut. Just use set screws gel. If you want more security you can add a nut.

Bigpapam109:
use scaler

VinnieB:
It is steel, not aluminum. Go to a store and check the hardness. It is very consistent.


The M109 I modified this system.
The 2 metal ball joints are within the prolongation nut, which is highly resistant

Go to a shop and see. Is more easy
 
#177 ·
Hee Haw, Hee Haw!!!!!

Sometimes it's not about being the cheapest. Plus you can still see the bones on the side of the bike. Not sure I would want eye bolts and hex nut on the M109R. Adjustable bones have not done too well here in the past. Man you would really have to be flat ass broke to do this to your bike. I would start a collection to by a guy a set of bones before I'd let him/her do this mod.

I tell you what though I have a wood fence door that is sagging. I bet this would work great to make it square again.

Thanks for the fence repair tip!
 
#178 ·
Never mind. Ball joints (depending on model) are prepared for a dynamic pressure of 1,100 kg 4 times the weight of the M109.

Delmustator solution is very good, but I think it has a flaw: None / I do not see the ball bearings for the chasis nuts.

This solution was placed on modified many bikes, so if they do many private workshops and after approving it so bad .... should not be.

regards
 
#181 ·
Just finished a 2" Yana shiki drop. First of all they don't use the bushings so it's grease em and in they go. I did it without removing the engine cover. I will admit it's was near impossible without the impact bit it can be done as you've read... But tough.

The look is fantastic, read the tips, use the tips on here.....and don't install them backwards like I did I.... Lol, yes I got the joy of installing them twice. It's much easier the second time, not more fun, but easier.
 

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#182 · (Edited)
Loss of PICs

Hey folks. A member notified me that the pics were missing from this thread. Sorry about that. I had a server failure (err.. more like meltdown) and had to replace it entirely. The old server was IIS based; the new server Apache based. So the OS changed entirely (which is good because it's faster). But all I have from the old server is some random backups. I'm trying to fix the broken pictures now.

Note: This tutorial was done back in 2006 and the bones have been rock solid since. You do have to modify the way you ride somewhat to be aware of your lean in curves and things like speed bumps dragging the bike undercarriage if you hit them too hard. I don't get to ride the M109R as much as I would like. My weekends are spent doing exams, papers, and other assorted college related time sucks or traveling to the other side of the planet to play in the desert. But this is life.. yeah?
 
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