Yep one of the wires rest at ground with the key off therefore triggering the relay.
Thanks AWESOME109 for jumping in :bigthumbsup:. My real job is trying to kill me right now.
Gday fellas. I know this is a very old thread, but I wanted some idea as to where everyone picked up the earth for the air horn when mounted behind the headlight. Did you run an earth back to the battery, or is there somewhere on the triple trees to earth from? Is it ok to earth from here, or would that send power through the steering stem bearings and damage them? Thanks in advance.
I finished installing my second Stebel on the bike
a couple of days ago , took a lot of time , had to take
both horns apart to put only the horns in the nacelle ,
and then look for room to put the small compressors
Air Ride so most of the room is taken , but I have
found some room behind the lower chrome covers
and in the groove of the right side cover , because
of the Air Ride manifold I could not fit the second
compressor in the groove of the left side cover .
I was wondering thru the whole thing if it was worth it
thinking maybe 2 identical horns would just sound the same
BUT IT DID NOT , :D It is LOUDER .... Success ...
Bring the air from the compressors ,to the horns ,
with a plastic hose 5/16 I.D. tricky to fish this under the gas tank .
I'm following the wiring diagram for "both horns". Before splicing any wires I checked the blk/blu wire with a test light to see if its energized when horn button is pressed, and found it to be hot with key on. Test light Does go off when button is pressed (blowing stock horn). I've checked all other wires coming from left controls and none in that loom change when pressing button.
If I wire it up per diagram, I'll have the same problem Quepsiphi18 had.
What am I doing wrong?
The horn button is actually making (closing) the "Negative wire" (12vdc-) to your stock horn when you push the button.
So you can wire your Stebel horn relay the same way.
If you attach the + and - from your stock horn to your sebel relay coil then the relay coil will become energized when you press the button and close the really contact closing the new circuit that you ran through the relay contacts to your stebel horn.
If you are reading this and still scratching your head then please draw out you circuit the way you perceive it so we can have a look and put you on the right path.
If I get time I will make a drawing and post it up.
Sparky is right , stock horn has + all the time , and when you press the handlebar button
you then add the ground ,
you need a 25Amp fuse for each air horn ,
you need a relay for each air horn ,
trigger both relays with spliced black wire /blue line , feeding terminal 86 on relays
any orange wire with green line you can find to terminal 85 on relays
when this is triggered , the bigger juice will pass from terminals 30 to 87 .
OK, without going into my background of being a CNC tech, let me just say that I understand wiring and relays. And I understand that pressing the horn button completes the circuit to the stock horn. I was trying to keep my question brief, thinking maybe someone else had already run into this problem and that there was an easy answer.
Sparky, you said horn button is wired on negative side, but diagram shows its on positive.?
And instead of running wires from stock horn to relay, I'd like to keep everything inside the headlight housing if possible.
Just to clarify. Everything is in place and ready to go. The air horn and relay is in behind the headlight, the 14 ga 25 amp fused hot wire from battery is routed, and all thats left is to tap into the org/grn and blk/blu wires for post 85 & 86 of relay, like diagram shows.
Now, again. If I wire it per diagram, as soon as I turn on the key, the blk/blu wire will become hot, energizing the relay, which will complete the circuit to the air horn, thus causing it to blow.
I'm no stranger to having brain farts, but I know I can't wire it that way. What am I overlooking?
(Put headlight back on and will revisit when Cyclops bulb comes in. So anyone reading this that wants to comment, it'll be a few days before I tear it back apart.)
The reason you read 12vdc + on the B/Bl wire when not pushing the button is because you are reading this though the horn.
There is 12vdc + on one side of the horn when ever the ignition is turned on.
When you push the horn button it closes a N/O contact, 12vdc - is then applied to the other terminal on the horn and the horn blows.
If you have one lead of you tester on the B/BL wire and the other on ground (frame or neg wire) you will read voltage, but when you press the horn button and close the contact on the switch now both of your tester leads will be at the same potential and you will read 0 volts.
The Horn button completes the negative side of the circuit.
If you're using a test light to check the O/G and B/BL wires at the Horn itself, the readings will vary if the connector is plugged in or not.
With the Horn plugged in and Ignition ON, both wires at the Horn will show 12v...then press the Horn button and the O/G will show 12v and the B/BL with show 0v...as 12v's was dropped across the load (the Horn).
Unplug the Horn and turn the Ignition ON, the O/G wire with have 12v and the B/BL will have 0v. Connect the test light to the battery positive and touch the B/BL terminal and it will still be 0v...then press the Horn button and it will read 12v.
The only reason you found the O/G and B/BL hot while testing them is because the connector was plugged into the Horn...but in reality the test light is providing the Ground, which the Horn button will do when pressed, and only when pressed.
If you disconnect the Horn and have 12v at both the O/G and B/BL wires with the Ignition ON, then you have a wiring problem that needs to be fixed before you continue.
Admittedly this setup is backwards to most cars where the Horn is on the negative side of the circuit and the Horn button actually triggers the positive side.
In these situations the Horn has 1 wire, and is Grounded through it's body to where it's bolted to the chassis of the car.
for Pockets , written in first post of this very thread , by Robert May , 5th paragraph ,
"" It's inside the headlight nacelle. No need to go all the way to the horn and fish wires back up.""
all the needed wires are inside the headlight nacelle ....
more info in that first post guys .
If you plan to terminate the negative power wire from your horn to the frame (metal) don't do this in headlight bucket, take the wire out to a solid point on the frame.
The front end of the bike is resting on bearings.....you do not want to run current through these bearings.
I cant remember if Suzuki has a bond wire from the frame to front end or not so just wanted to point this out as most never give this a though.
Best thing to add to your bike for accessories it a Fuzeblocks makes your installations neat and tidy and helps to eliminate the rats nest found on most motorcycles due to aftermarket wiring.
Good stuff Sparky , very important , helps fix my bad or incomplete info ,
All my grounds originate from the same place , one of those goes to the nacelle area.
it would be much cleaner looking to have a " Fuzeblock " install , just adding stuff over the years
gave this mess ..... maybe next winter ,,,,
One of the problems that I noticed is when people tap into existing circuits and do not realize the draw of things. Plus Suzuki will never use a heavier gage wire then needed to power what is needed.
Assuming your wiring has been done correctly, maybe you have a bad relay? I installed a Denali air horn and used the Denali harness. I could not get it to work. I went over the wiring and connections half a dozen times but could not find the problem. I went to Canadian Tire and purchased a new relay, swapped it in and that did the trick.
I wonder how the horn plastic part would handle the heat. I'd rather not have it enclosed. Since I have the bags I don't need the small area beside the battery anymore. I can make the compressor fit in there. Then run an air linehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...637af7782d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...71dfe1bfa4.jpg
Sent from my LG-H933 using Tapatalk
Yeah , room in the headlight bucket , so much room you can have 2 horns
but the compressors need to be elsewhere , you will also need to remove
all the plastic covers around the rad to run the tubing from compressors to horns (even
for just one horn) , unless you don't care if the tubing is exposed .
Alternatives to compressor location when you have no room left :
-in cavity behind right side cover ,
-behind left chrome cover , tight fit ..
Where is the stock horn located on the M109R?