Upgrade your Clutch System [Archive] - M109Riders.com

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Rainey5230
12-10-2015, 01:38 AM
We can referred the 06-09 M109 as the first generation 109, and the 10-on as the second. What's difference between the two gens is not only in the redesigned tachometer but most importantly, the clutch system. We have learned that when entering first gear the impact of gears collision deteriorate significantly with the 10-on models. The inconvenience of shifting from first to second gear on the 06-09 models has been improved. The root of the problem lies on the five clutch plates in the old gens that when in motion, the friction between the plates are not enough without the bigger kg/m clutch spring, which is also the reason why we have to pull pretty hard when reaching the clutch lever. What's worse is that this clutch spring will experience elastic fatigue after consistent usage for two years. The second gens clutch system altered into six clutch plates to increase its friction and lower the kg/m of the spring. The result is easier and more comfortable when reaching the lever and longer lifespan for the clutch spring as well. Revo-cycles has successfully help many of our riders to upgrade their 06-09 models' clutch system into 10-on's.:doorag:

297529
2012 on the left, 2008 on the right
297537
Although the OEM part number is different, both of them shares the same sizes.
297545

2012 has become lighter
297553
The clutch pressure disk on the outside is the same, so all you need to do is change the clutch plates, clutch driven plate and springs to finish the upgrade.
297561
2012 on the left, with softer handling that is more comfortable for longer ride.

ducks517
12-10-2015, 11:41 AM
That's some great information. :bigthumbsup:

Andy33
12-10-2015, 12:27 PM
So am I understanding this right?
You are saying the guts of an 06-09 clutch can be directly swapped for an 10-current model and this "should" greatly improve the shift from 1-2?
If all I need to do is upgrade the plates and springs to have the better functioning clutch this could be a great mod for us older model guys.

I take it you have done this swap?

thevili
12-10-2015, 05:17 PM
So am I understanding this right?
You are saying the guts of an 06-09 clutch can be directly swapped for an 10-current model and this "should" greatly improve the shift from 1-2?
If all I need to do is upgrade the plates and springs to have the better functioning clutch this could be a great mod for us older model guys.

I take it you have done this swap?

That is what he is saying, also that he had done it several times...

cbxer55
12-13-2015, 03:21 PM
First off, I have never for one moment thought the clutch pull of my 06 is hard. NOT EVEN CLOSE! Ever ridden a bike with a really stout Barnett racing clutch? That's hard. My 2006 M109R has a super easy clutch pull.

As for duration, mine's now going on ten years old and still works like a charm. Not one problem with the clutch since I bought the bike new in July 2006. Every once-in-a-blue-moon, I get the shudder. Haven't had it for months now. If I warm the bike up good, and pull the clutch in and give it a few brisk revs, I never get the shudder at all. All I have to do is remember to do those, and it's all good. I've had bikes before where that was necessary, or the clutch plates would stick together.

I have no intention of ever having the clutch cover off my bike, as long as it keeps functioning as it does now. Which is to say: PERFECTLY!

I know others have had problems. Those have always been hit-or-miss. I've read of others besides myself, who have never has one problem with their early models. You got to do what you got to do. If swapping out the internals fixes those bad ones, GREAT! I myself, do not feel the need to waste my time (or money) doing that since mine functions so well.

Fraps
12-13-2015, 03:42 PM
I'm in a similar boat. I have a 2009 and have not had any clutch issues. Have not had any issues going from 1-2 either - in fact, I think the shift is pretty smooth. Occasionally, I've gotten the RPM's wrong and the shift was like a Mack truck but that is rare. That said, I don't know if the previous owner did an y upgrades (shift star or plates) but I don't think so. I've been told my clutch pull is hard but I manage.

cbxer55
12-13-2015, 05:33 PM
I agree on the first-to-second as well. Once in a while, less than once a year, I blow it somehow. And get a gnarly rough shift. Usually I can shift from first-to-second at any rpm I desire with no hysterics. It was pretty bad when I first got the bike, but it's just kept getting better and better the longer I've owned it. I'm not out there putting around either. Riding it pretty hard and getting the rpm's up near red line in first and second gear. If I thought there was a problem, I'd address it. I would not sell the bike because of it, I love this bike way too much to get rid of it over something that can be fixed.

edwilk55
03-01-2016, 11:01 AM
Bringing this thread as I'm about to do this upgrade on my 08. I'll report back after I'm done. I've done the pin mod to elim the shudder already, but now, I'm slipping at above 4k RPM under load. I can't wait to see if there's a big diff here and I'll let y'all know.

Andy33
03-01-2016, 12:36 PM
Bringing this thread as I'm about to do this upgrade on my 08. I'll report back after I'm done. I've done the pin mod to elim the shudder already, but now, I'm slipping at above 4k RPM under load. I can't wait to see if there's a big diff here and I'll let y'all know.


Nice, would really like to hear how it goes for you. This is high on my list of Mods to do.
I cant say I've experienced the "shudder" all that much. Maybe once. But I am very interested in having my bike run as good as it can.

Good luck. Report back soon.

MainEvent
03-16-2016, 03:59 PM
Bringing this thread as I'm about to do this upgrade on my 08. I'll report back after I'm done. I've done the pin mod to elim the shudder already, but now, I'm slipping at above 4k RPM under load. I can't wait to see if there's a big diff here and I'll let y'all know.
Any updates on the new mod? Any noticeable changes in shifting? I'm planning on checking my plates. I bought a shift star kit which I plan on installing once I get my bike back.

edwilk55
03-16-2016, 05:13 PM
Any updates on the new mod? Any noticeable changes in shifting? I'm planning on checking my plates. I bought a shift star kit which I plan on installing once I get my bike back.

I was slack in spending the $400, but just ordered all a couple days ago. Will install asap when the parts arrive. EOM was target for delivery.


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MainEvent
03-16-2016, 06:10 PM
I was slack in spending the $400, but just ordered all a couple days ago. Will install asap when the parts arrive. EOM was target for delivery.


Sent from my Apple brain boiler tapped by the NSA!
Wow, $400 is pretty steep. I remember paying around $240 for all the plates for my 07', about 3+ years back.

Keep us posted on your results. Intrigued to see the results. I had no ideas there were changes to the clutch from 2010 up. If I had know, I might have gone with the new plates as opposed to the old stack.

edwilk55
03-16-2016, 06:12 PM
Wow, $400 is pretty steep. I remember paying around $240 for all the plates for my 07', about 3+ years back.

Keep us posted on your results. Intrigued to see the results. I had no ideas there were changes to the clutch from 2010 up. If I had know, I might have gone with the new plates as opposed to the old stack.

Yeah, wasn't thrilled about the cost, but figured I needed a clutch anyway, so what the hell.


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edwilk55
03-16-2016, 06:14 PM
Yeah, wasn't thrilled about the cost, but figured I needed a clutch anyway, so what the hell.


Sent from my Apple brain boiler tapped by the NSA!

And you could get buy for under $300, but I'm replacing everything in there.


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M109Dreamer
03-16-2016, 09:33 PM
I paid just under $400 with shipping for all the fibers, steels, wave, seat, #6 drive plate. And also the gasket. That was 2 years ago.

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edwilk55
03-16-2016, 09:34 PM
I paid just under $400 with shipping for all the fibers, steels, wave, seat, #6 drive plate. And also the gasket. That was 2 years ago.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Yup [emoji106]


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MainEvent
03-17-2016, 06:27 PM
Yea Clutch problems are a pain in the a$$. Mines failed on me during MAM 2012 when we were right in the middle of that ride from Tazwell VA to Marion VA. (Rt 16 aka Back of the Dragon). Couldn't ride the bike in any gear past 2nd and could only go 25mph. I was scared as hell, didn't think I was gonna make it through. Luckily I have BigPapa a stone's throw away, so we ordered the plates and he helped install after the meet.

Haven't had any issues since, but seeing sometimes this is a reoccurring thing, plus I didn't do the pushpin mod or check the tubular nut, I figure to check it out this season while my bike is down.

Zarchon
03-21-2016, 10:27 PM
OK, so does this work on the C109rt? Can I use an M109 clutch in my bike? Do I purchase a 2010 M109 clutch kit? I know, so many questions. One more, does a bike's clutch have a throw out bearing like a car and if so why doesn't it come in the clutch kit? OK, I lied, one more question. What should I buy, when replacing the clutch, that doesn't come in the kit and is there a preferred after market kit? Now I'm done. :bigthumbsup:

Leather
03-22-2016, 12:23 AM
Every once-in-a-blue-moon, I get the shudder. Haven't had it for months now. If I warm the bike up good, and pull the clutch in and give it a few brisk revs, I never get the shudder at all. All I have to do is remember to do those, and it's all good.

My 06 is new to me and I have had the shudder a few times...Just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong if my revs are too low or I am too slow to release the clutch. Any other tips you guys have to help prevent this?

cbxer55
03-22-2016, 02:51 PM
My 06 is new to me and I have had the shudder a few times...Just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong if my revs are too low or I am too slow to release the clutch. Any other tips you guys have to help prevent this?

Riding season is approaching. If the damn wind would go away. We'll see what transpires on mine this year. Been lucky so far. Got a new battery today, and am off Friday, so putting it in and riding starting then. Also have new oil and filter to go in this weekend, four quarts of Suzuki 20W-50 petroleum oil (and every ounce is going in).

The only time I've ever experienced the shudder was when the engine was still cold, never happened to me fully warmed up. What I said before has worked well for me. Can't guarantee that for anyone else. I'm anal about warming my vehicles up before splitting. I've gotten the shudder only a handful of times, and every one of them I was in a hurry and bypassed my usual long warm up. I hope that continues, as I am not in a big hurry to tear into the internals anytime soon.

Leather
03-22-2016, 07:25 PM
The only time I've ever experienced the shudder was when the engine was still cold, never happened to me fully warmed up. What I said before has worked well for me. Can't guarantee that for anyone else. I'm anal about warming my vehicles up before splitting. I've gotten the shudder only a handful of times, and every one of them I was in a hurry and bypassed my usual long warm up. I hope that continues, as I am not in a big hurry to tear into the internals anytime soon.

It has happened to me after my bike has been running and is warmed up. Must be something else for me.

edwilk55
04-10-2016, 11:53 PM
Any updates on the new mod? Any noticeable changes in shifting? I'm planning on checking my plates. I bought a shift star kit which I plan on installing once I get my bike back.

Clutch is in. Fits perfectly.

Initial impressions with the 8 miles I was able to ride is it's great. Clutch pull is easier. 1-2 shifts aren't as notchy.

I'll give another update after I put some miles on this coming Sunday.

thevili
04-11-2016, 12:02 AM
Clutch is in. Fits perfectly.

Initial impressions with the 8 miles I was able to ride is it's great. Clutch pull is easier. 1-2 shifts aren't as notchy.

I'll give another update after I put some miles on this coming Sunday.
:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:
Looking forward to hear from you, not that I don't trust Rainey's opinion!!!
I have friends overseas who needs reassurance....

mark95621
04-14-2016, 01:42 AM
Hey guys,

So I am interested in this mod for my 08 shudder machine. Actually I did the pin mod a few years ago and the shudder is gone but ever since then I have had issues with the bike pulling in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Now its getting to the point that it can hardly shift down when coasting or coming to a stop and have to match the engine speed to the transmission to shift (like shifting without the clutch) It seems that the clutch really isn't working at all except when at a stop it does generally disengage the engine. Also its been darn near impossible to get into neutral at a stop light with the engine running. As soon as the engine is off it goes right into neutral no problem.

So long story but now I'm thinking I'll just replace the clutch all together and wonder what parts I must buy. I'd like to replace the pin (modded) as well and am hoping there is a good replacement that fixes the shudder issue out of the box.

In this mod do I need to change the basket? Can I just order the clutch fibers and plates and springs and new pin and be done with it? Is there a list of required parts somewhere?

If anyone has other clutch advice for me I'd gladly take it.

Thanks!!!

edwilk55
04-14-2016, 07:43 AM
In this mod do I need to change the basket? Can I just order the clutch fibers and plates and springs and new pin and be done with it? Is there a list of required parts somewhere?

If anyone has other clutch advice for me I'd gladly take it.

No on the basket. Stock works perfectly. New plates are thinner, so fit right in.

Plates #5,9 and 10 are a must as well as springs. But since you're in there and have spent that much, might as well replace the other 3 components. You can get away without replacing #6.

I wouldn't replace the pin. No need unless you think you didn't mod it correctly the first time.

No advice needed really. It's just a clutch swap. Make sure to torque properly.

Now did you tighten/lock tight the Nut holding on the primary drive gear when you went in the first time? That's the nut that loosens itself over time. If not, you'll want to do that requiring a special tool, good 6pt socket and torque wrench / quality impact gun.

For reference on all mentioned above:

http://poisnus.com/M109RFiles/M109R%20Clutch%20Replacement.pdf

Jpaulson12
04-15-2016, 07:50 AM
Bringing this thread as I'm about to do this upgrade on my 08. I'll report back after I'm done. I've done the pin mod to elim the shudder already, but now, I'm slipping at above 4k RPM under load. I can't wait to see if there's a big diff here and I'll let y'all know.

Hey, wondering if the clutch upgrade fixed the slipping under load? When you say slipping, is it specifically in 2nd gear or any gear at 4K RPM?

edwilk55
04-15-2016, 07:54 AM
Hey, wondering if the clutch upgrade fixed the slipping under load? When you say slipping, is it specifically in 2nd gear or any gear at 4K RPM?

It's was in any gear and yes, it fixed it, buuuuuut... I didn't need the upgrade to fix the slipping. I found I installed the inner plate 10 backwards when I did the pin mod last year, so while it worked for a season, it ate up two plates causing my slipping. [emoji15][emoji15][emoji51]

mlrman
06-03-2016, 11:48 AM
It's was in any gear and yes, it fixed it, buuuuuut... I didn't need the upgrade to fix the slipping. I found I installed the inner plate 10 backwards when I did the pin mod last year, so while it worked for a season, it ate up two plates causing my slipping. [emoji15][emoji15][emoji51]

I wonder if that's what I did too, as my new clutch fried after a season and a half. I' going to do this upgrade since I've got it apart anyway. Thanks for the info.

mlrman
06-03-2016, 11:58 AM
Can anyone explain why there are alternate clutch drive plates to #6? (7,8 in diagram?) Thanks.

edwilk55
06-03-2016, 12:03 PM
Can anyone explain why there are alternate clutch drive plates to #6? (7,8 in diagram?) Thanks.

It was asked / answered in a separate post I found when researching. The word was just stick with 6 (std part # when ordering), but I can't recall why.


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mlrman
06-03-2016, 12:42 PM
Sounds good, thanks man.

M109Dreamer
06-03-2016, 01:29 PM
Can anyone explain why there are alternate clutch drive plates to #6? (7,8 in diagram?) Thanks.


It was asked / answered in a separate post I found when researching. The word was just stick with 6 (std part # when ordering), but I can't recall why.


Sent from my Apple brain boiler...tapped by the NSA, hacked by the FBI!
It has to do with the thickness of the stack up. Your suppose to get the measurement and based on that measurement, go with the proper drive plate #6, #7, or #8. I stayed with #6 when I changed my clutch out and havent had any issues.

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rookiepg
02-22-2017, 01:06 PM
Clutch is in. Fits perfectly.

Initial impressions with the 8 miles I was able to ride is it's great. Clutch pull is easier. 1-2 shifts aren't as notchy.

I'll give another update after I put some miles on this coming Sunday.


Havent seen any updates so I thought I'd give ya a nudge. :)
I assume you've put on many more miles than above. What do you think of the upgrade? What are the differences you've noticed from before. Anything you're still not completely satisfied with?
Thanks for the info.

Still chilled in BC, Canada.
Paul

edwilk55
02-22-2017, 01:17 PM
Havent seen any updates so I thought I'd give ya a nudge. :)
I assume you've put on many more miles than above. What do you think of the upgrade? What are the differences you've noticed from before. Anything you're still not completely satisfied with?
Thanks for the info.

Still chilled in BC, Canada.
Paul

So far, so good. It's an exact fit, just a better design.

Smoother clutch pull and, from what I've read, stronger grab.

I highly recommend of you're going to do the clutch anyway. It's a win win.


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rookiepg
02-22-2017, 01:22 PM
So far, so good. It's an exact fit, just a better design.

Smoother clutch pull and, from what I've read, stronger grab.

I highly recommend of you're going to do the clutch anyway. It's a win win.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1st to 2nd issues? And the reverse, (downshifting)
sounds like you're only recommending this upgrade IF the bike is in immediate need of it.
Cheers

edwilk55
02-22-2017, 01:25 PM
1st to 2nd issues? And the reverse, (downshifting)
sounds like you're only recommending this upgrade IF the bike is in immediate need of it.
Cheers

1st to 2nd is more precise. I don't recall the last time I had a missed shift or the clunk.

It's pricy, so yeah, don't think I'd say it's worth the spend over stock. My humble .02.


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rookiepg
02-22-2017, 01:29 PM
1st to 2nd is more precise. I don't recall the last time I had a missed shift or the clunk.

It's pricy, so yeah, don't think I'd say it's worth the spend over stock. My humble .02.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always appreciate a members 0.02$ ESPECIALLY if they have personal experience with the matter. So thank you for that. :)
Once it was all said and done, what was your finally cost?
Cheers

mlrman
02-22-2017, 01:48 PM
I always appreciate a members 0.02$ ESPECIALLY if they have personal experience with the matter. So thank you for that. :)
Once it was all said and done, what was your finally cost?
Cheers

another member shared this with me before I did the mod last year:

bim28
04-04-2017, 10:52 AM
Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?

edwilk55
04-04-2017, 10:57 AM
Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?

I know it all fit back in w/out issue and had been working gr8 since installation last year.



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thevili
04-04-2017, 11:08 AM
Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?

Did you adjust first the push pin and then both ends of the clutch cable according the 'Shop Manual'?

PS.

I hope you also changed the springs as posted by Rainey.

bim28
04-04-2017, 01:39 PM
Did you adjust first the push pin and then both ends of the clutch cable according the 'Shop Manual'?

PS.

I hope you also changed the springs as posted by Rainey.

I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.

edwilk55
04-04-2017, 02:08 PM
I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.

You need the springs that go with it if I remember correctly. I know I changed those as well.


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M109Dreamer
04-04-2017, 02:14 PM
The free play at the lower end of the cable isnt enough. Had this same issue then I replaced mine.
You need to adjust the lower arm before you adjust at the lever. By not having enough free play at the bottom even is you have enough at the lever its not letting the clutch fully disengage.

How I check mine is when I have the clutch pulled in i let my heels just keep the bike up and see if the bike moves. I do this in the garage on a flat and level surface.

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thevili
04-04-2017, 02:19 PM
I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.

I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

• Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
• From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniyn4ltj/M109+service+manual.pdf

You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

PS.

One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
https://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297921&p=3737250&viewfull=1#post3737250

and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

https://s4.postimg.org/b6a4mg5nx/Push_Pin_Adj.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/l3l5fid9l/)post img (https://postimage.org/)

bim28
04-05-2017, 08:40 AM
Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the feedback. I will pull it apart this weekend.

M109Dreamer
04-05-2017, 09:16 AM
I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniyn4ltj/M109+service+manual.pdf

You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

PS.

One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
https://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297921&p=3737250&viewfull=1#post3737250

and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

https://s4.postimg.org/b6a4mg5nx/Push_Pin_Adj.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/l3l5fid9l/)post img (https://postimage.org/)
Do you have an updated link for the manual? The one you listed gives me an error. Im try to download a copy to my new cell.

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thevili
04-05-2017, 09:37 AM
Do you have an updated link for the manual? The one you listed gives me an error. Im try to download a copy to my new cell.



It does work with my desktop, I just double checked it. :dontknow:

thevili
06-19-2017, 11:14 AM
2011-up clutch hub quieter...

https://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322153&p=3805505&viewfull=1#post3805505

kshackelford
10-01-2017, 02:27 PM
Have 06 m109R. Clutch not right hard to shift 1-3 especially when motor gets warm. I can be driving at around 50 pull clutch in and rev bike and bike will shutter real bad. Sitting at stop ligght pull in clutch and rev up and the bike will try to take off and feels like something jerks real hard horrible sound. Bought a new clutch cable been adjusted twice. So I am going to try to upgrade to the 2011 clutch and make hydraulic.

KL9
01-13-2018, 12:32 AM
It's was in any gear and yes, it fixed it, buuuuuut... I didn't need the upgrade to fix the slipping. I found I installed the inner plate 10 backwards when I did the pin mod last year, so while it worked for a season, it ate up two plates causing my slipping. [emoji15][emoji15][emoji51]


I know this is an old post for you, but I have a question about the clutch slipping issues. I had my clutch replaced by a dealer at around 22k and since that time my bike will not go any faster than 100 mph and I'm in 5th gear on the highway. Is this an example of the clutch slipping? I have taken it back a couple of times only to be told, they can't find any problem yet there is one, because the bike should not tap out at 100mph.

M109Dreamer
01-13-2018, 12:43 AM
I know this is an old post for you, but I have a question about the clutch slipping issues. I had my clutch replaced by a dealer at around 22k and since that time my bike will not go any faster than 100 mph and I'm in 5th gear on the highway. Is this an example of the clutch slipping? I have taken it back a couple of times only to be told, they can't find any problem yet there is one, because the bike should not tap out at 100mph.Are the rpms still climbing but not the speed?

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sssportsmfg
02-11-2018, 05:24 PM
I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniyn4ltj/M109+service+manual.pdf

You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

PS.

One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
https://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297921&p=3737250&viewfull=1#post3737250

and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

https://s4.postimg.org/b6a4mg5nx/Push_Pin_Adj.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/l3l5fid9l/)post img (https://postimage.org/)


Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?

M109Dreamer
02-11-2018, 05:47 PM
Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?I would recommemd it anytime you have the clutch cover off. You are basically readjusting the clutch from scratch. Adjust push pin, then lower section of clutch cable then at the lever.

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thevili
02-11-2018, 06:35 PM
Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?

Just like 'M109Dreamer' said. In any way, one takes off the clutch cover

usually for a reason, like clutch is NFG - Not Functioning Good, therefore

IMHO proper adjustment from push pin and up is necessary before one

proceeds in further troubleshooting.

BigpapaM109
03-16-2018, 12:20 PM
Did this to Bikergranny's last year. 7k miles of the best clutch setup she has ever had. She has Rhumatoid Arthritis and she has been having hand issues with the older setup. Since changing she has simply loved it and I wish I had done it earlier for her.

kshackelford
05-01-2018, 08:37 AM
I have a question about my m109r. I installed a Revo clutch. Did the push pin mod. But the bike is starting to pull with the clutch in again. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic clutch.

thevili
05-01-2018, 08:58 AM
I have a question about my m109r. I installed a Revo clutch. Did the push pin mod. But the bike is starting to pull with the clutch in again. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic clutch.

IMHO your problem is n clutch adjustment,

starting with the push pin, and then the cable.

kshackelford
05-01-2018, 11:10 AM
At first was great, longer I rode worse it got again

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M109Dreamer
05-01-2018, 04:34 PM
At first was great, longer I rode worse it got again

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkIf you know you adjusted the push pin then look at the free play at the bottom of the clutch cable arm. If there isnt enough slack at the bottom the clutch will remain engaged.

When I did my clutch had the same prob.

Disconnect the cable at the lever and adjust the slack according to the book. Then hook the cable at the lever and adjust for the slack there.

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kshackelford
05-01-2018, 09:32 PM
I appreciate it. I will give it a try.

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FlyingCircus
05-01-2018, 09:48 PM
I have a question about my m109r. I installed a Revo clutch. Did the push pin mod. But the bike is starting to pull with the clutch in again. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic clutch.


I just bled my hydraulic clutch and got the slave cylinder setup. I've had clutch cable break in the past, not on the 9 but never want to deal with the 9 without clutch cable. Can't test it till my ECU gets back but everyone that's done the hydraulic clutch swear by it

cbxer55
05-14-2018, 12:39 PM
Even though I keep a spare cable on my bike, the one time I had a cable break, I was close enough to home and just decided to ride it home sans cable. Wasn't a problem. I was about two miles away with a neighborhood in between. Rode into the neighborhood, and just floated all the stop signs. It was a weekday and there was no traffic, so it wasn't a problem. I kept it in the lower three gears and shifted it easily without the clutch. When I got near to my garage, shifted it into neutral from first without any trouble, hit the garage opened button and coasted into my garage.

I regularly shift without the clutch even with a good cable. Even from first-to-second. It's a bit more abrupt than the cable shift makes it, but it works fine if you know how to do it.

What's that old saying, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I thought about doing this mod, but more for the fact that it would make the bikes appearance more symmetrical. THe mirror mounts are placed differently on the left versus the right side. I just decided I have better things to spend my money on than this mod. A new cable kept in the Corbin Smuggler is cheaper.

FlyingCircus
05-14-2018, 07:58 PM
I've had a lot of bikes and manual transmission cars over the years and have always found the sweet spots where I didn't have to use the clutch.

Have broken cables on 2 bikes and it was a PITA so that's why I did this mod. And like you say, it makes it more symmetrical as well. It didn't cost that much as I found the master cylinder complete on Ebay for $65 so then it was just the cost of the slave and hose.

I have always enjoyed doing all my own work since I was a kid. I guess it's my hobby.

ahhyeah
06-17-2019, 01:47 PM
My 2007 was jumping from stopped to 1st gear here and there. I took it in and they are replacing the clutch plates. I read about the upgrade from 5 to 6 clutch plates. I went back to the shop and asked about that option and they said the parts list showed 12 clutch plates. Im guessing that means 12 divided by 2 equals 6. Why would they show 12? Anyone know? They said they just ordered what Suzuki had listed for that year. Did Suzuki change what they stock for 07?


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06MrMike
06-17-2019, 06:21 PM
384230
My 2007 was jumping from stopped to 1st gear here and there. I took it in and they are replacing the clutch plates. I read about the upgrade from 5 to 6 clutch plates. I went back to the shop and asked about that option and they said the parts list showed 12 clutch plates. I’m guessing that means 12 divided by 2 equals 6. Why would they show 12? Anyone know? They said they just ordered what Suzuki had listed for that year. Did Suzuki change what they stock for ‘07?


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maybe 12 with the washers and spacers https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2017-suzuki-boulevard-m109r-vzr1800l7/o/m161316#sch1020725

rookiepg
06-17-2019, 09:31 PM
Ive run out of time, but search a blog on replacing all clutch components from a 2011 M109R. From 06-11 there were apparently 18 changes made to the clutch system. It cost me approx $1400 in parts and my buddy did the job for $500.
Because I dont like to assume, have you looked at the adjustment to your clutch cable FIRST? And I dont mean at the handle, I mean from behind the lower case.
Cheers.



My 2007 was jumping from stopped to 1st gear here and there. I took it in and they are replacing the clutch plates. I read about the upgrade from 5 to 6 clutch plates. I went back to the shop and asked about that option and they said the parts list showed 12 clutch plates. Im guessing that means 12 divided by 2 equals 6. Why would they show 12? Anyone know? They said they just ordered what Suzuki had listed for that year. Did Suzuki change what they stock for 07?


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ahhyeah
06-17-2019, 10:10 PM
A new clutch cable was installed in the spring. The adjustment threads at the handle actually broke and thats why I brought it in this time and figured Id have them fix the issue. The clutch snagging/grabbing was there before and after the clutch cable repair.


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