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2010 LE with a noisy clutch

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clutch
2K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  timwa 
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

I have a query regarding the clutch on my 2010 LE with just under 10,000 miles on the dial.

At idle the clutch is quite noisy, but if you give the motor a little rev the motor starts to accelerate with an almighty bang! It is very disconcerting. Doing the same again whilst holding the clutch lever in removes most the noise. And a take-off in first in similarly fuss free. But the big bang for an in neutral clutch engaged rev up is horrible.

Now I have been going thru all the past posts trying to get to the cause of all this, and the best reference I can find is to the Bluey fix. But is this applicable to 2010 bikes? And I could not find a link to a how-to on doing the Bluey fix. Is there one?

And if I am inside the clutch assembly having a look, what else should I be doing in there? The clutch does not appear to slip or anything just now, but I am happy to do some prevention work while the bike is open. Should I replace the plates and springs per the LAMonster how-to? And can my bike be affected by the tube nut issue. Do I need to dig that deep?

Many thanks in advance for any replies. I tried to figure this out based on the history contained in the forum, but I am a little confused by it all.

Thanks again.

Tim
 
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#2 ·
Hello timwa, let's see if we can get you pointed in the right direction here. First things first, you should know that the Suzuki M109R motorcycles have a very "clunky" transmission by design (granted I'm sure it was not designed specifically to be clunky lol). At idle, in neutral, you've probably noticed some noise coming from the right, lower-side of the engine (which is where the clutch resides). This noise may also sound a lot like something is "rattling" around, freely just inside the engine clutch cover. This sound can normally be traced to the clutch pressure plate springs as they oscillate ever so slightly inside of their perches. The suggested fix for this issue is indeed called (lovingly), the "Bluey Fix". Originally founded/suggested by 1 of our own members, the idea of this fix is quite simple and should only require enough mechanical knowledge to back out a few bolts, recognize and utilize appropriate torque specification during reassembly, and a good grasp on how to follow directions. ;-) This fix suggests that by closing the gap between the springs and the tabs that hold the springs in place, you can just about do away with any chance said springs have to oscillate back and forth. In most cases this fix has proven to just about do away with the clutch chatter completely but don't be alarmed if you still have a little bit of noise still oming from the clutch, after the fix. Now the "clunk" that you've notice when shifting into 1st gear from neutral is (as I more or less stated above) normal. Obviously this clunk is not natural but the only true fix for it is rather expensive and may not be worth your time as long as you can learn how to shift the bike correctly (fix would be to back-cut the gears). Never force gear engagement; if it doesn't wanna go don't keep applying pressure until it does, simply release the clutch lever and try again. Shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear below 3000rpms. Due to the sheer amount of torque resonating from this engine, an already fragile clutch can quickly become nothing more than bits and pieces of metal shavings if not properly cared for. Don't do burn outs; c'mon, I think this one should speak for itself. Forcing power to the rear end of these bikes just to cause the tire to break traction (for fun sake) isn't a good idea. Yeah it might look cool but I assure you that you'll end up causing more damage than just a worn out tire. Okay, let's wrap this up a little. If you do decide to perform the "Bluey Fix", while inside I would highly recommend the following fixes to help prolong the life of your clutch and bike as a whole..."Push Pin Mod", double check your clutch adjustment (at the clutch end), check the tubular nut to make sure it's TIGHT, inspect every clutch plate for premature wear and consider replacing entire clutch pack and clutching springs (remember, you don't wanna go back in here unless you absolutely have to). If you have any questions along the way, you know where to find us. ;-) Take care brother.
 
#3 ·
Many thanks for the reply SiPPMSH, much appreciated.

Tho not sure I said it clunks on going into first (tho it does!), the clunk noise I mentioned is the one that can be heard when just revving the engine while it is in neutral with the clutch out. Makes it hard to impress your mates with a little rev up when all you hear is this almighty clunk.

I will look into the push pin mod you mention, and perhaps just order up some new clutch plates to do whilst I am in there.

Thanks again.

Tim
 
#4 ·
My apologies Tim as I misread your original statement a little. So you're saying that while in neutral with your hand off the clutch lever, you can rev the motor and you hear a "clunk"? Is there any way you could record a short video of yourself completing this process and upload it here? I'd be happy to provide you with my personal E-Mail account if it would be easier to send it there. Let me know; thanks.
 
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