I've used search, and read everything I can find but I'm still in need of help... total noob when it comes to wiring.
Anyway I've read that any orange wire is switched power, but also that there's a wire running to the rear end for the running lights and that's where I think I would like to tap in.
I see the little harness connection under the seat that goes to the rear but none of those wires are orange... what am I missing? How do I figure out which wire to tap?
Thanks for any help you can give, it's the last step to complete my install and for now I've got it connected with a toggle switch but I don't want to leave it that way.
I want to help, but not 100%. If you have a tester, you can find one that way. From the diagram, the license plate wire is hot all the time when the bike is on. That looks like Black with a white stripe. I got a tester at Zone for like $5
All respect Wjduke, hate to contradict you, but the Black with White stripe grounds that entire circuit. All bulbs feed into a single Black with White stripe, indicating it is ground.
The Gray wires feed the tail light and the license light. The two Grays are connected to Brown. Assuming Suzuki wired it according to their own diagram, the Brown wire should be powered with key on.
Schmoof, I would still use a tester to verify before I tapped the wire.
All respect Wjduke, hate to contradict you, but the Black with White stripe grounds that entire circuit. All bulbs feed into a single Black with White stripe, indicating it is ground.
The Gray wires feed the tail light and the license light. The two Grays are connected to Brown. Assuming Suzuki wired it according to their own diagram, the Brown wire should be powered with key on.
Schmoof, I would still use a tester to verify before I tapped the wire.
After I read wjduke's suggestion to use a wire tester I realized I have a damn multimeter... this solid grey wire is switched 12v power and it's right in plain sight under the seat next to the battery on the left side.
Unless I find a more suitable wire to tap I'm going to prob. go with this one... open to suggestions!
I'm also thinking about using these Posi-Tap things I just found out about earlier today... very cool! And I also found out that the company who uploaded the video is about an hour away from me and they are even open on Sundays so I might have to take a ride up there and pick some up, or if not I'll just order some via Amazon.
Depending.on the power load (amps) 5hat the raidio needs or.draws you may wan5 to avoid just taping into another circuit. I dont recall you mentioning what kind or type of radio you are using . i might sugest using a relay and using what you would for a power source as th3 switch "on" for the relay . trust me you dont want to b3 going.down some dark road in the middle of th3 night and suddenly lose all your lights or your ignition or who knows what else .
Well I did actually pick up a Hella 40amp relay, but this thing only needs a 5amp fuse so I wasn't sure if I would use it... but you make a great point
I even bought the weather sealed version with a relay and wiring harness, which will add a lot of extra bulk/wires but it is probably the safe bet to do it that way after all
thanks for the advice, to you and everyone else who's chipped in... really appreciate it everyone :bigthumbsup:
BTW - It's a Boss MC420B which in the manual states that you should use a 5amp fuse and it comes pre-wired with a sealed inline 5amp fuse... even comes with a spare which was a nice bonus.
So I worked this out last night... The only thing I don't like about this Hella harness is that the main power (85/86) leads are only 18awg... and then oddly enough the (30/87/87a) are 12awg... I wish they were all 12awg.
I bought the harness only because it's mated with a matching relay and together they make a waterproof setup. If I just use a regular relay I can fashion the wires myself and use 12awg but then it won't be sealed...
Admittedly with a lot of inspiration taken from the FZ-1 Fuzeblock design, but that thing is $83! Plus another $33 for the "wiring harness" which I can certainly fashion myself.
So I worked this out last night... The only thing I don't like about this Hella harness is that the main power (85/86) leads are only 18awg... and then oddly enough the (30/87/87a) are 12awg... I wish they were all 12awg.
I bought the harness only because it's mated with a matching relay and together they make a waterproof setup. If I just use a regular relay I can fashion the wires myself and use 12awg but then it won't be sealed...
Admittedly with a lot of inspiration taken from the FZ-1 Fuzeblock design, but that thing is $83! Plus another $33 for the "wiring harness" which I can certainly fashion myself.
Okay so I was thinking about how the Hella relay came with only 18awg for the 30amp hook up to the battery and it turns out that 18awg can safely pass 30amps up to 3-feet... and these leads are only 12" long
And that makes sense why they used 12awg for the runs to your components, because that's good for 30amps up to 10-feet
Looks right to me . and.i also.agree you do not need a fuse in the tapped in line . now here is another bonus for the way you did this . if you want to add anymore items (12volt plug in ,usb chrger cord ,etc) as long as the amperage load does not exceed the 30 amp you can run it all from here with little fear of running your battery down since it only powers out with the bike.in the on position .
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