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Tube nut or broken clutch cable?

8K views 49 replies 8 participants last post by  M109Dreamer 
#1 ·
Ok folks, forgive my ignorance here...but I need to ask one of those questions that's been beat to death I'm sure.

Drove the bike to work today and when I was backing it into the parking space, it lurched forward like I'd released the clutch. Problem is, I had it pulled all the way in.

I thought it was the clutch cable right off the bat, but after talking to the service guy at my local dealer I'm wondering if it might be the tube nut. My service guy asked if the clutch lever moved freely, or if it had resistance. It still has some resistance, so he thinks it may be that nut backing off.

I may have time to replace a clutch cable (with the help of a how-to from the forum here), but I don't have the time or the space right now to take care of the latter so I'm kind of screwed if that's the case.
Anyway, I trust the local dealer. The service guy is a good, honest person...but I thought I'd come get you guys' opinion as well.
 
#2 · (Edited)
If there is still tension on the lever then your cable is not broken which leaves the tube nut as suspect number 1. Double check to make sure your cable adjustment is in order, if it is then it's your tube nut. It's not a difficult job to fix but considering you don't have the time or space and the technician knows about the tube nut and you trust him then I guess is a no brainer!
 
#5 ·
Does the bike go into 1st gear....if it's the tub nut bike won't do nothing when putting it in first you won't be able to move.
 
#7 ·
Yea, it just sits there. You can get it from 1st to Neutral and back again, but when it's in gear it won't roll at all, even with the clutch lever pulled in.
Glad you chimed in...do you have a link to your how-to? I found it earlier this morning but didn't save the link and now I can't remember what combination of search terms I used in Google, so I can't seem to find it anymore.
 
#8 ·


 
#11 ·
Can anyone clarify for me what exactly the tube nut and push pin do?
I've seen them mentioned plenty on this forum, but I don't know that I've seen an explanation on what they do.
The Clutch Basket Tubular Nut is actually a gear positioned on the backside (inner-most side) of the clutch basket and is what comes in contact with the primary driven gear to turn the basket. The Clutch Pin (or Push Piece) is what makes contact with the Clutch Sleeve Hub Nut and the Clutch Sleeve Wave Washer, which in turn, contacts the Clutch Hub. When you pull in the clutch lever, this causes the Push Piece to "push" against the Clutch Hub to relieve pressure against the clutch plates, which in turn, removes the load on the transmission, allowing you to shift gears.
 
#13 ·
I'm gonna give it a go!

Well I'm not mechanically inept, but I'm no Mr. Goodwrench either.
However the bike is already disabled so, as long as I don't damage any parts...I can't "hurt" the bike anymore than it already is. So I think I'm going to give this tube nut repair a whirl. :yikes:

Any tips/pointers on this before I dive into it? Do I need extra oil?...any special tools?...etc? I've Google'd this topic to death and I haven't been able to find any other how-tos outside of the videos by Some 9, so forgive me if these questions have been covered elsewhere.
 
#14 ·
Left you a pm call me. There's some parts to order before you go in
516-359-6789
 
#15 ·
I'm sure Some9 has you covered with the "know how" and as i said it really isn't that hard, in fact the hardest part IMHO is removing the stock exhaust. Considering your ride is an 06 I would highly recommend that you do some preemptive work against the dreaded "clutch shudder" while your in the clutch. Replace the wave washer as well as the other plates needed (not sure of exactly which ones need to be changed off hand but it's something like 3 parts total and I'm sure some 9 can help you out here) and also do the push pin mod which allows more oil into the clutch basket. By spending a few extra dollars and doing very very little extra work you will stop a potential headache before it starts in your bike and chances are more then likely that if nothing is done now that you WILL be going back in to do the work anyway in the near future! So save some time, cash and aggravation and do it now, you won't be sorry you did!
When removing the exhaust take your time and handle the set valve motor with gentle hands, it doesn't take much to strip the teeth on the plastic gear. You may choose to remove that part totally but some chose to leave it and and install a plate that tricks the ecm into believing everything is still intact. Or remove it and pull the proper wire so that you don't get an fi light fault. Either way try not to damage it cause you could always sell it if you decide to remove it.
 
#16 ·
I think he's changing his exhaust so servo motor is garbage.

:agree:with everything latinrascal says

 
#26 ·
How worn is too worn on a clutch plate?

I called my local Suzuki dealer a few minutes ago to ask the service guy a question (I'm happy with the dealer; they have treated me well thus far). He told me what to look for as far as clutch plates being completely worn out.

Now, I'm guessing I know the answer to this, but wanted to get others' opinion too.
If I have a clutch plate where 3-4 pads are almost worn completely off...would that be too worn to continue using? I'm guessing so, but this is the first time I've done something like this, much less looked at the innards of a clutch, so I wasn't 100% sure.

My dealer is probably closed by now, or I'd call and ask them....but what would a new set of clutch plates cost you think?

Thanks guys, you're great! I'm glad I'm a part of this forum.
 
#27 ·
There is a free downloadable manual on this site. I dont have the link due to being on my cell. In the manual it gives you measurable dimensions to all of the plates and how to inspect them as well. You really need it to inspect all the parts. Youll also need a micrometer as well.
 
#29 ·
I would say just to replace the plates while you're in there if you can afford it. You can find parts and prices on Oneida Suzuki web site. I bought mine from BikeBandit: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-suzuki-boulevard-m109r-vzr1800/o/m147607#sch522121. It's not a difficult job. You will need a special socket to tighten the tubular nut and maybe an impact wrench to get it to the proper torque. I used an electrical impact wrench (from harbor freight), red loctite, an slammed it to about 105 lbs of torque. I am being brief here, but let us know if you need more help.
 
#30 ·
Clutch plates were nearly completely worn

Went by the dealer today to have them look at my clutch plates.
Turns out, my suspicions were correct; the guy said they were nearly completely worn out.

Replaced the whole set and it cost me $330. That's about $80 more than Oneida for comparison, but I was happy to give them some business since they've been so helpful to me. (The parts and service guys have basically walked me through making these repairs at the cost of their business. Thumbs up in my book!) Still, that's a nice chunk of change!

Then again, this means I'll have a fresh clutch to go ride the Dragon next month! :bigthumbsup:
 
#33 ·
On page 3-20 of the manual it says "unlock the clutch hub sleeve nut" and has the following picture. It doesn't say how to do it, and frankly with my limited mechanical experience I have no clue how to do this.
Can you just take a torque wrench or impact gun to this and get it off without "unlocking" it? Will that damage anything doing it that way?
Automotive tire Font Rim Eyelash Circle
 
#34 ·
On page 3-20 of the manual it says "unlock the clutch hub sleeve nut" and has the following picture. It doesn't say how to do it, and frankly with my limited mechanical experience I have no clue how to do this.
Can you just take a torque wrench or impact gun to this and get it off without "unlocking" it? Will that damage anything doing it that way?
View attachment 205714
Impact gun will take the nut off.
 
#38 ·
Got the clutch back together

Got the clutch put back together during a spare hour this evening after work.
My local dealer rocks I think. He told me I could bring the outer clutch basket by once I got it off the bike and he'd put some locktite on and tighten up that tube nut for me. Did that today after work and then put the clutch back together when I got home.

Now I just have to adjust the clutch cable and put my new exhaust on! Should be riding again in a couple of days. :doorag:

Speaking of clutch cable adjustment...I've never done it.
My dealer said you have to take the cover off the other side and do the full adjustment...not just the one at the lever. I've never done either so he gave me the pages out of the manual that address this. Anything I need to be sure to watch for?
 
#39 ·
Got the clutch put back together during a spare hour this evening after work.
My local dealer rocks I think. He told me I could bring the outer clutch basket by once I got it off the bike and he'd put some locktite on and tighten up that tube nut for me. Did that today after work and then put the clutch back together when I got home.

Now I just have to adjust the clutch cable and put my new exhaust on! Should be riding again in a couple of days. :doorag:

Speaking of clutch cable adjustment...I've never done it.
My dealer said you have to take the cover off the other side and do the full adjustment...not just the one at the lever. I've never done either so he gave me the pages out of the manual that address this. Anything I need to be sure to watch for?
When you put the basket back together, did you take 1 turn out of the push pin?
 
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