Kind of new. I was looking for advice on converting from a stock wheel and tire to a 300. Do I need to have my rim modified or can I buy one to fit a 300? Thanks in advance.
Kind of new. I was looking for advice on converting from a stock wheel and tire to a 300. Do I need to have my rim modified or can I buy one to fit a 300? Thanks in advance.
You should use a 10" wheel if you want to run a 300 rear tire. In saying that you also need to modified your rear swing arm or buy a aftermarket one. Do a search on this forum you see the pros and cons.
I know about the swing arm. Was considering the new set up everyone has been talking about on the other thread. Any idea where I can buy that rim?
DLP sells a 10" wheel that mimics the stock wheel.
Or you can have Koosman widen your stock wheel. You will also need to modify the inner fender.
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There is WAAAAYYYY more to do than just order a swingarm and wheel for a 300 to fit. Do the research, not a thing for a novice to get into----not trying to imply anything.
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Relax bro. These guys are just trying to help. A lot of times people start doing things and then a post pops up asking for help. It looks like your good to go so make sure you post pics when your all done.
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My understanding is that they fixed that problem.... Its in the thread.
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Oh Yeah , and jrrose sent me pictures of the new way they weld
them now , only one welding pass , no more strip of one inch welded on both sides
I am in the process of having this done by a friend .....it's been 3 months and I'm
still waiting for my rim back , but I am keeping quiet because he is doing this for me free
for past favors, but I really hope I get it back before April and riding season starts.
.
I could post pictures of the new way Kosman welds them now,
but I got them in a private message from Jrrose69 ,
so maybe he wants to keep it secret , ask him ,unless
he comes back in this thread and says it's OK to post them .
Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .
Here is what Jrrose69's rear rim looks like , after the weld by Kosman
with the new way they are doing it .
Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .
Correct me if I am wrong here. But it appears the wheel was split down the middle and a segment inserted in the middle. My question is: Was the design portion (spoke like pieces that stretch from outer rim to the center of wheel) get split in two? I also think this is a stupid question because balancing it if it wasn't would be challenging but I have to ask.
jrrose could you send me some photos or post some more of the wheel. I am considering doing this to my wheels and what to know as much of the good and not so good as I can from someone who has done it.
Thanks in advance for all the great information. It puts the "informed" in the informed decision making process.
Hi 06M109R , the wheel was cut , the outer part thrown away
and the outer parts from another rim (little wider )were welded to the center part .
((so you keep a little more on center part of receiving rim , and keep a little more on outer
parts of donor rim , giving you a wider rim ))
Personnaly I am going to widen 7/8 on right side , and 5/8 on diff side , the diff side is always
the side that rubs on the swingarm , so using shim to move wheel , or widening with offset
should place rim in middle of swingarm.
.
You want as much info as possible , OK , I read that when cutting and welding ,
you better make sure all the paint was removed from the aluminum where you are going to weld ,
and 1 inch more on each side , this is to not contaminate the weld , the grade of aluminum
in our rims is crappy so we need all the help we can get for a good quality weld .
.
The old way was to cut rim , make a 3/4 inch strip of aluminum (fabricate that
strip at welding shop )and weld that strip where the cut was made .
doing that on both sides gave 4 welds , with the new way you need 2 rims
to make one , but you have less welding .
.
Compared to the past ,now they cut closer to the center part of the wheel ,
it seems to make the difference between fragile rims ,and stonger ones.
I also read that if you have the choice, it is better to get the outside rim part with the square lip,
and not the one with no lip , you can see Jrrose69'rim as no lip where the tire sits , it
is another element to make rim stronger.
.
pictures of old way .
.
PS , when it comes to balancing , just put some Dyna beeds in there .
.
Last edited by Kazimodo; 02-28-2013 at 12:38 PM.
Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .
I will respond in detail tonight when i have a computer and not my phone
ok they cut the wheel about a inch from each side of the center (spoke part) of the wheel then they make a bilit bead side pieces as per your order they cut a V grove into each side of the center piece they are keeping and the bilit bead side parts they cut a V that fits into the v grove slideing them together so that they actualy lock togetherchecking it for run out before tacking and welding the wheel once they are done are as good as stock out of the box for balance.
Keep in mind Kosman is the company responsible for building all the Buel and Harley chassies for NHRA bikes we see on TV these guys know whats at steak here.
now that other wheel that has the 3/4" flats that are rolled and welded so that there are 4 welds that works too that was my first atempt at widening and it works in fact I believe that wheel is still in use today and doing well just isn`t the quality your going to get from Kosman.
NOTE: you are limited to how wide you go as per the drive shaft you just can`t move that out any further then it is unless you have big big bucks to have a chain drive or belt or something out of the box deal, I know at one time there was someone trying to make a chain drive mod and did come up with a design but it just wasn`t strong enough to hold the torq our 9s make hope this helps if not keep the pms comeing and I`ll try to answer your questions best I can![]()