The Truth About Motorcycle Oils...Synth vs Dino...Auto vs cycle

[Blackey]

The Truth About Motorcycle Oils

I found this link when researching oil. It is a pretty interesting read. Not sure how much is accurate but does seem to be very logical.
http://www.theyeagergroup.com/oil_bible_motorcycle.pdf

Any feedback from the hive mind?


ETA...another link...also real interesting read with the Auto oil vs Motorcycle oil test for viscosity breakdown at 800 and 1500 miles
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

[She's real fine my 109]

Good write up here people. Hit the nail right on the head. Thanks for bringing it up Blackey. Should have a sticky on the link for people wanting to know about oils.

Just remember people we are running a 109 that puts more ware on our parts being 1800 cc, so 6,000 to 10,000 the oil will not last. Try to stay under 5,000 mile changes. If you can hear your motor getting a little noisy or hard shifting, its time to change.

The zink write up is one to think about being 109's.

Again, Thanks Blackey,

[She's real fine my 109]

bump for a week end reading

[grampi]

Good write up here people. Hit the nail right on the head. Thanks for bringing it up Blackey. Should have a sticky on the link for people wanting to know about oils.

Just remember people we are running a 109 that puts more ware on our parts being 1800 cc, so 6,000 to 10,000 the oil will not last. Try to stay under 5,000 mile changes. If you can hear your motor getting a little noisy or hard shifting, its time to change.

The zink write up is one to think about being 109's.

Again, Thanks Blackey,

I disagree. Any good synthetic will easily do 6-10K, and I'd also say the good dinos will go 5K no problem. Today's oils are so much better than they were just a few years ago and I think you'd be surprised how long they'll last now. I had an oil analysis done on my car oil (I know, it's not a motorcycle application, but it's still relevent) at 6K miles on the oil using the cheap ol' Supertech dino that Wal-Mart sells and the results came back saying the oil was still good for another 2K. I don't run my oil that long, I just feel better changing it out every 6K miles...cheap insurance I call it...bottom line, and this is personal feeling on this, as long as your using an oil that's formulated for wet clutches, going 5K on a dino or going 10K on a full syn shouldn't be any problem....I would not however use an automotive oil in a bike...

[pabohoney1]

100% agree!

I disagree. Any good synthetic will easily do 6-10K, and I'd also say the good dinos will go 5K no problem. Today's oils are so much better than they were just a few years ago and I think you'd be surprised how long they'll last now. [...] I don't run my oil that long, I just feel better changing it out every 6K miles...cheap insurance I call it...bottom line, and this is personal feeling on this, as long as your using an oil that's formulated for wet clutches, going 5K on a dino or going 10K on a full syn shouldn't be any problem....I would not however use an automotive oil in a bike...

[She's real fine my 109]

I have to disagree with you guys. It isn't what the motor tells me.

Sound and feel tells me at around 3,500 it starts to make sounds and around 4,000 the sifting starts to change. I'd go to 5.000 but that's using a touch of Sythetic Lucas additive.

I started using Mobil 1 back when I was 16 and got my first road bike.

Now my pickup was a different story. Once a year at fall for winter I'd change it. Filter at every 4,000. That was when you checked the oil and it was down a 1/4 of a Qt. or pint so I change the filter and add oil.

Our 1800 cc motors put lots of stress on parts and oil.

Treat her good and she will be her best.

Got 60.000 out of my 07 with no repairs till now. proof is in the pudding.

[Crazie]

I have to disagree with you guys. It isn't what the motor tells me.

Sound and feel tells me at around 3,500 it starts to make sounds and around 4,000 the sifting starts to change. I'd go to 5.000 but that's using a touch of Sythetic Lucas additive.

I started using Mobil 1 back when I was 16 and got my first road bike.

Now my pickup was a different story. Once a year at fall for winter I'd change it. Filter at every 4,000. That was when you checked the oil and it was down a 1/4 of a Qt. or pint so I change the filter and add oil.

Our 1800 cc motors put lots of stress on parts and oil.

Treat her good and she will be her best.

Got 60.000 out of my 07 with no repairs till now. proof is in the pudding.

What oil are you using while doing the 5k oil changes? I've been using AMSOIL in all of my engines for years now, and everything runs great. I change my oils at the AMSOIL recommended oil changes, and if anything feels off, I'd send a sample in for an oil analysis. Everyone is going to have their own opinion, but as long as your system works for you, that's all that matters. It's always better to change early than later, but in some cases, you're throwing away money by doing so. BTW, every in every forum I've ever belonged to, this has always been a big debate....not necessarily a heated on, but definitely one with a lot of opinions.

[She's real fine my 109]

Been using the Mobil 1 when doing the 5,000 miles. And I add a little Mobil 1 Lucas, it gives me a little more of a slick feeling.

[BAD BOY M109R]

I run synthic oil sometimes I change it at 3000 and sometimes I change it at 5000 miles no extra noises but if I let it go to 5000 miles I can tell the differance in shifting after I change it shifts better , but the oil is still clean.... I personally do not go over 5000 miles.... Just personal preferance...

[grampi]

Been using the Mobil 1 when doing the 5,000 miles. And I add a little Mobil 1 Lucas, it gives me a little more of a slick feeling.

Nothing wrong with goin above and beyond either....we all get warm fuzzies some way...

[grampi]

Come to think of it, I put a little over 6K on Valvoline dino this year and it still felt and shifted smooth (for a 109 anyway), and it looked good coming out too...I think it held up well, but I'm no Blackstone...should do a UOA on this oil at 6K....hmmmm....

[Crazie]

Been using the Mobil 1 when doing the 5,000 miles. And I add a little Mobil 1 Lucas, it gives me a little more of a slick feeling.

Mobile 1 dino, or syn? Either way, I was just curious about why you were using additives. I've never been a fan of anything other than fuel additives....and I'm even skeptical on many of those. I get the whole "Snake Oil" vibe from it.

[Wildman7]

6K I try and change mine every 2-3K

[She's real fine my 109]

6K I try and change mine every 2-3K

I can see that happening. At first I was using that half and half from Suzuki. Didn't like it. Had to change it out at just around 3,000. Couldn't see myself changing that much.

[godservant78]

100% agree!

Dido!! Over the years oil has greatly improved due to computers building engines with tighter tolerences.
I have a 2012 Impala co. car and it just turned over 7k. It has a meter built in that monitors the oil
life and I have found it to be fairly correct. I read the monitor yesterday and it said I still had 26%
oil life left. I checked the oil and sure enough it was still fairly translucent. I believe this veh has a
full synthetic. But in all the years I have been driving and getting oil changes in the co cars and my
car the oil life is extending more and more. I use castrol in my personal car and I believe wher I get
my co car serviced at the local grease monkey, they use Mobil 1. I have to agree though that I
wouldn't use car oil in a motor cycle due to additives designed for the clutches. However I did buy a
Gal of the Rotella T6 to try for next year.

[The M]

Our 1800 cc motors put lots of stress on parts and oil.

What does the size of the engine have to do with oil wearing out?

[Captnpirate]

What does the size of the engine have to do with oil wearing out?

We have some big a$$ pistons in our engines and we run at some high revs. You add to that the fact that our oil is used for the engine AND transmission and you get more distructive wear. Me, I run Mobil 1 synthetic and change it every 3,000 miles. Could I go longer, probably but why should I, it's the blood in my dragon and I have already learned a hard lesson that I won't be repeating.......ever.

[The M]

I know we have big pistons but oil is pushed through the engine at normal pressures, the oil stays much cooler since we are water cooled, and a wet clutch is nothing new or unusual. I still don't see what how engine size degrades oil more than a smaller engine. And our "high revving" engines turn at half the speed of the inline four I used to have.

[She's real fine my 109]

What does the size of the engine have to do with oil wearing out?

Being one of the fastest bikes out there. Wouldn't you think there is a little bit more stress on our parts then say a HD? or any other small bike out there.

[The M]

Sure, stresses on con rods and crank, but I still don't see the oil being stressed. Oh well, I'll drop it and move on. Thanks for all the input.

[dre319]

Now lets see if anyone can find one on fuel additives. The truth.

[asillito]

I don't see any one or link mention the JASO MA oil rating. JASO (Japan Auto Standards Organization) has developed the oil rating for 4 stroke motorcycles called 'MA'. I started using Rotella T6, which is designed for diesel trucks. It has the JASO MA rating and has a large following of motorcycle owners that use it. I bought my 1USGal (3.8L) jug at Walmart in the US for $21. T6 is available in Canada for $43 for 5L. Using the 5L jug leaves you with a lot extra after changing my 9 oil. The US jug is just the right size ... no extra. As I have said in another thread, my concerns are now with the quality of oil filters that fit the 9.

Here is a link to a spec sheet for Rotella T6 - http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf

[Dommy]

Regarding oil additives, in my previous Benelli Tre-K engine I used this product:

http://www.sintoflon.com/prodotti/au...tector-racing/

Because the Benelli's clutch was also oil-wet, I used to pour this additive into the oil engine port at a petrol station on a highway. Then I rode the bike for about one hour trying not to shift gear to avoid the additives to stick to the clutch plates before it was "absorbed" by the pistons metal.

I found the engine to be little smoother after and no clutch slipping experienced .

Do you think it may help also with our big twin?

[She's real fine my 109]

I have used it on all my nines. You do feel the difference. If you can feel it, its got to be a big difference. Sifts smoother, motor is much more quiet. Not a lot of clacking going on.

If I have lots of miles on a oil change, i'll use the Lucas 100% synthetic if she needs a little added before a oil change. I'll use one pint to about four or five oil changes. Don't want to use lots or the clutch plates will slip.

[fatboy99]

Use quality oil made for motorcycles.. change between 3000 & 7000 and a engine will never fail due to oil breakdown

[Blackey]

Found another interesting oil link...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[She's real fine my 109]

[QUOTE=fatboy99;1705778]Use quality oil made for motorcycles.. change between 3000 & 7000 and a engine will never fail due to oil breakdown[/QUOT

If its synthetic it does not have to be motorcycle oil. The difference is, they take out stuff that the bike does not need.

The stuff they take out does not harm the bike. All your doing is paying for someone taking it out of the oil. And your paying for a name. motorcycle oil. lol.

If I where you guys that pay for motorcycle oil should use a little lube. lol I'm not talking motor oil here. lol
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