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Thread: Dented oil filter

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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    Default Dented oil filter

    I did an oil and filter change last night and dented the filter when putting it on the bike. Checked it today before and after a short ride and there are no leaks. I am considering changing it and using the correct wrench tool for tightening on a new one but I'm wondering if the dented will work fine as it is if there are no leaks? It is about a 1/2 inch dent on one side and a few smaller ones around caused by a filter pliers tool.
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    Very Active Member Big-B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    I did an oil and filter change last night and dented the filter when putting it on the bike. Checked it today before and after a short ride and there are no leaks. I am considering changing it and using the correct wrench tool for tightening on a new one but I'm wondering if the dented will work fine as it is if there are no leaks? It is about a 1/2 inch dent on one side and a few smaller ones around caused by a filter pliers tool.
    How did you dent it? NEVER USE A FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE FILTER. DO IT BY HAND! Lubricate the seal spin it on hand tight


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    Very Active Member BigpapaM109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    How did you dent it? NEVER USE A FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE FILTER. DO IT BY HAND! Lubricate the seal spin it on hand tight
    Use a suzuki wrench that is the exact fit and goes over it. I then use a 17mm wrench ratchet and tighten it to the book specs which are 2 full turns after you snug it. I go a shade less than 2.

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    Very Active Member kawzx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    How did you dent it? NEVER USE A FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE FILTER. DO IT BY HAND! Lubricate the seal spin it on hand tight
    Indeed.

    I have no idea what torque spec your paws are though!

    On KN's, I do hand tight + 1/4 turn. Not even close to how nasty factory was!
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    Very Active Member She's real fine my 109's Avatar
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    No tools. I do it by hand like Mr B said. On and off. Never any leaks.
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    Very Active Member chesshine5000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    How did you dent it? NEVER USE A FILTER WRENCH TO TIGHTEN THE FILTER. DO IT BY HAND! Lubricate the seal spin it on hand tight
    I agree! A little oil on the seal and HAND tighten. You should be ok with a small dent. If you think it is deep enough to have damaged the internal fibers, swap it out. What's 20 bucks to ensure that the fluid flow is right, and peace of mind? I am pretty sure that you are okay without swapping it tho. Remember, only use the correct wrenches to remove it. That seal expands when heated and does a fine job.

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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    I used a filter pliers tool. Big mistake. I have a suzuki wrench tool in route with a new filter from oneida. Manual says handtight then two full turns with tool. I guess hand tight works well too with no leaks. I may replace it once new filter arrives for peace of mind. I once did hand tight on my car and had a major leak when I started the car.

    Reason I ended up with a pliers tool is dealer didn't have suzuki tool and non of the ones at advance auto would fit.
    Last edited by KINGZM109R; 08-18-2012 at 08:57 PM.
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    Very Active Member Big-B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    I used a filter pliers tool. Big mistake. I have a suzuki wrench tool in route with a new filter from oneida. Manual says handtight then two full turns with tool. I guess hand tight works well too with no leaks. I may replace it once new filter arrives for peace of mind. I once did hand tight on my car and had a major leak when I started the engine.

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    That's entirely too tight. That's why you can't get the damn things off from the factory.

    On the latter, you must have done something wrong. Not trying to be a dick here either. Maybe you inadvertently double gasket-ed the new filter. In case you don't know what that is, on occasion when you remove the filter, the old gasket stays on the block. If you don't notice it and spin the new filter on, it will leak. That's why it's always important to make sure the old one comes off. Not saying that's what happened, but there's not much to leak if it's done properly. Was this the first oil change on the bike?


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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big-B View Post
    That's entirely too tight. That's why you can't get the damn things off from the factory.

    On the latter, you must have done something wrong. Not trying to be a dick here either. Maybe you inadvertently double gasket-ed the new filter. In case you don't know what that is, on occasion when you remove the filter, the old gasket stays on the block. If you don't notice it and spin the new filter on, it will leak. That's why it's always important to make sure the old one comes off. Not saying that's what happened, but there's not much to leak if it's done properly. Was this the first oil change on the bike?
    2nd oil change but 1st oil and filter change. There are no leaks so I guess the old one came out. I won't ride until I change and double check everything. New to this so I'm learning as I go. Hope I don't make a mistake that will cost me hundreds more. :thumbup:
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    Very Active Member M109RTOOGO's Avatar
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    Cool Too Tight

    One of the most common problems found is over tightening of oil filters
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    Very Active Member Wjduke's Avatar
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    Just a comment because I just saw something to trigger it....I always change the oil filter with the oil. The manual says every other, but I've never done that with a car and won't with my bike. makes no sense to me.


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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    I did a somewhat semi-hard motoman style break in then changed only the oil at 60miles. Now at 600 doing the 1st service myself so was oil and filter change. I plan to change the filter with every change as well.
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    Very Active Member M109RTOOGO's Avatar
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    Cool New 9

    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    I did a somewhat semi-hard motoman style break in then changed only the oil at 60miles. Now at 600 doing the 1st service myself so was oil and filter change.
    Ahh the new 9, seems like only yesterday.....
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    Very Active Member Wjduke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    I did a somewhat semi-hard motoman style break in then changed only the oil at 60miles. Now at 600 doing the 1st service myself so was oil and filter change. I plan to change the filter with every change as well.
    That's cool. I wouldn't blame you, as the manual says to do it that way. Seems foolish and thought I'd put it out there. I love my 9....hope you enjoy yours!


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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    Oh wow...its a blast. I took it out to open it up a little more by circling the 495 beltway in DC/MD/VA at 1am this past Sunday morning since I had crossed the 500 mile mark on the odo. Hit triple digits fast and that could get addictive. I gotta watch that. Bike seems to pull harder after break in. And to think I walked in to the dealer to buy a 2012 zx14r. So glad I went for the m109r.
    Last edited by KINGZM109R; 08-18-2012 at 01:42 AM.
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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    I used a filter pliers tool. Big mistake. I have a suzuki wrench tool in route with a new filter from oneida. Manual says handtight then two full turns with tool. I guess hand tight works well too with no leaks. I may replace it once new filter arrives for peace of mind.

    Reason I ended up with a pliers tool is dealer didn't have suzuki tool and non of the ones at advance auto would fit.
    I would replace it as a percaution. You would not want to reduce the flow rate of the oil. And I do it as speced as Papa stated. There must be a reason as to why they say to do it that way.
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    Very Active Member fatboy99's Avatar
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    from my expierences that dent probably not too much to worry about, but for piece of mind take it as a lesson learned and change it out. next filter change oil that seal and double ck the old one is gone hand tighten that sucker pretty firmly.

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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys, I will change it soon as I get the new one. Lesson learned indeed. I'm assuming only the oil caught in the filter will flow out, right? That should be about 200ml. I have 300ml left in one of the remaining quart bottle of Valvoline 10/40 to add after the replacement.
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    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
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    There will be a little oil that's in the galley leading to the filter that will drain out too, but it's a small amount compared to what the filter has in it. 300ml should be plenty to top it back off.


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    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KINGZM109R View Post
    Manual says handtight then two full turns with tool.
    ..
    NO ! 2 turns after the rubber O-ring ( oiled ) makes contact with
    the flat part where it sits .
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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    ..
    NO ! 2 turns after the rubber O-ring ( oiled ) makes contact with
    the flat part where it sits .

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    Very Active Member Big-B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
    I would replace it as a percaution. You would not want to reduce the flow rate of the oil. And I do it as speced as Papa stated. There must be a reason as to why they say to do it that way.
    There is, it's called CYA! In no way does it need to be that tight. Hand tight is all that's necessary. However, each individual must do what's comfortable for them.

    Side note, you see how well that 15/3 works out, as specified by the manufacturer.
    Last edited by Big-B; 08-18-2012 at 05:59 AM.


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    I welded a nut on a cap type filter tool and slip a ratchet wrench to r & r not much room to get a good hand hold . works great !

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    Very Active Member KINGZM109R's Avatar
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    So I got everything fixed today. The suzuki wrench tool works great and is so easy to use. I did put the new filter on hand tight(snug) plus one full turn. :) Changed final drive fluid and completed the rest of the 1st service procedures. Big thanks to everyone for their input. :thumbup:
    Last edited by KINGZM109R; 08-24-2012 at 11:11 AM.
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    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    I'm going to disagree with what most are saying. I snug the filter with a wrench after it's hand tight. I use a strap wrench made specifically for oil filters that has a piece of seat belt material that has a wide surface on filter. Never any trouble getting it back off. I had a filter on my pickup come loose years ago and have ever since snugged it past hand tight. The thread on the filter nipple is a very fine thread so the movement per turn is a lot less than for most filters. 2 turns after the gasket contacts is not as much compression as filters that have a much coarser thread on the nipple.

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    Very Active Member She's real fine my 109's Avatar
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    With fine thread you can put it on tighter with your hands. That's why you can get away with no tool.
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    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by She's real fine my 109 View Post
    With fine thread you can put it on tighter with your hands. That's why you can get away with no tool.
    I won't disagree with that. I just like to snug it anyway.

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