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Gutting a 2008...not debaffle, full gut.

4K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  gsxr150 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I see a TON of talk about debaffling...been there and done that. This spring it's time to gut these bad boys. However, I am not finding a lot of chat about gutting a 2008. I understand that it may be a bit more difficult than a 2006 or 07. With that said, what tools will I need? Can I use a hole-saw to cut the furthest back part to start? I guess I'm hoping someone here can guide me in the right direction.
 
#2 ·
I too spent hours on here searching (and on youtube) and I can tell you this, it ain't easy. I have an 11 and tried to do this last night. Gutting without the right tools is a pain in the ass. The top pipe you have to cut all the metal out to about the weld and the use a debarring tool to smooth it all out. The little pipe you see sticking out is welded to the baffle inside. You can see about 6 gatling gun looking pipes inside the main muffler body and each one of those is welded to the center tube and then that is tack welded to the inside body of the muffler. I didn't have the right tools to even come close so i just ordered a new exhaust system :p

I would say by looking at it the "best" way to do it would be to use a torch on the top muffler and cut it out to the welds and clean it up. Then use a really long air chisel or something like that to hammer out the baffles. They come out in pieces, be great if they just slid out but everything is welded inside so it doesn't move or rattle around (how awful would that sound be).

The bottom pipe is the same way difference is you can cut the 3 tack welds that hold the tip on (the top is all one piece, no tip) and then with the tip gone you can just sawzall or torch the end of the muffler off and then hammer out all the insides. Then you'll have to tack weld the tip back on or drill a hole and put a screw in it (kinda shade tree mechanic right there) but doable.

Honestly i don't know about the older ones but the newer ones appear to be a pain. I tried to sawzall the end out with a good metal blade and it still didn't want to come out. My other thought before I gave up was to just cut a few inches straight off the end of the exhaust leaving a straight look instead of the angled tips. Then I would have the whole opening to try and work the innards out. But at that point it was 3am, my blade was dying, my cutoff wheel inventory was dwindling, My battery was dying in the saw and my patience was wearing thin so a brand new setup is on it's way.

A secondary option is to do the Scorpion tips. You basically cut both mufflers off and leave a little nub sticking out to put the tips on and tack weld in place. Tips are just under $200 on DLP. I personally didn't care for the look but some people love them.

Apparentl
 
#3 ·
Holy crap! Maybe I should just drill out some more holes, haha. Thanks for taking all the time to reply. It's MUCH appreciated. I will refer back to this when I pull the bike out soon. Here's the million dollar question...mine is a 2008, and I understand that older 2008's have the old style exhaust. Is there any way to tell if it's the older one without drilling everything? EDIT-- I just realized I could probably look through one of the drilled holes, no?
 
#4 ·
Yup look thru with a flashlight. If you see kind of a gatling gun looking setup around the middle pipe then I bet yours is the same as mine. It's not impossible but really not worth all the work. I mean aside from the money part of buying a new system the exhaust comes off the bike in 15 minutes (the whole system). I didn't even remove a single heat shield to take it off. Remove seat, remove plastic covers, undo about 8 bolts and 2 plugs and it's on the floor...
 
#7 ·
MY $.02.....Don't do it bro, by the time you're done you will want to put a butter knife through your eye socket. Having done it, it's way too much time and effort expended for a louder exhaust, unless you have all the tools and are very good at cutting, grinding, etc and have ****loads of patience. I agree with Phantom, just buy a different exhaust.
 
#8 ·
Start out by taking the top pipe off the bike. grind the back plate out to the weld and pull the plate right off.

Long driver of some sort for braking the tacks off the baffle outer wall leaving the outer wall because there's isolation between the outer wall to the baffle and the chrome outer pipe.

The bottom one you got to grind off the tack that holds the tip on and start grinding. The baffle is tacked right to the outer chrome pipe.

In the end after its de-baffled their all the same. The top pipe you have to leave the outer pipe to the baffle and the lower you have to brake the tacks off the outer pipe. And don't forget to tack the lower tip back on.

Nice sound if you do do it.

Dave@NES.
nestone.us
 
#9 ·
What do you mean by de-baffle been there done that? A full gut you will need to remove the cat and this takes some serious metal working. If you mean you want to de-baffel then you will need too cut out the rear wall ( air saw works best) you will go through 4 or 5 blades per pipe. best method to remove the gatlin gun is an air chisel with a 12 inch tip. you will not be able to reach the very front wall with this though. but in my opinnion it is not needed. doing this will give you a very low rumble to the exhaust which will set off car alarms.and get rid of any raspy sound. how ever on deceleration some do not like the sound of it.
 
#11 ·
In case your wondering since I had new exhaust coming I was tinkering with cutting the ends off, here is what it looks like inside:

 
#12 ·
I gutted mine completely..I used a saws all to cut through and removed the insides with a little effort. To me, trying to drill out the insides etc to debaffle was way more difficult. If I had it to do over again, I would simply remove the pipes and use a mider saw with a metal blade, using tape around the pipe to keep my pipes straight. I probably would have also set the blade at an angle to give the pipes a slashed look...THe reason I did this is because you get a big throaty loud sound and get to keep the nice looks of the stock pipes along with all the heat shield protecting for yourself and a passenger.
 
#13 ·
Is it hard? Hell yes!!! Can it be done? YES!!! I had a 4 foot steel drift that i used to stick in the center and wiggle around hammer on and wiggle some more after I drilled the 1/2 inch holes. It's going to take some time and make sure your bike is secured. I liked the sound but eventually went with some scorpion tips.
Here's a vid


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