Anyone else have a problem with Baron bars install?

[Giddyup109]

The bars do not sit flush on the upper tree due to the bushing which sits about 1/4 inch above the surface of the tree. There is a huge gap between the bars and the upper tree which looks like crap and the bars do not feel secure or stable. Tightened bolts to 61.5 ft lbs per the manual and it does not pull the bars any closer. Anyone else have this issue? The toolbag at Baron support was worthless. If I can get those bushings out I can use a Dremmel and make it flush I think but those bushings do not seem to be removeable even though the manual states to replace when worn.....HELP!

[Wolf]

Great, I just bought a set from RedisFaster. I hope you figure it out for me. Any pics?

[Giddyup109]

Great, I just bought a set from RedisFaster. I hope you figure it out for me. Any pics?

Figure it out for you................ Yeah, I'll get right on that!

[ooinkk]

I would be concerned that if you thinned them down ,vibration might be too heavy
I haven't had to deal with baron bars yet but Im betting they are just glued on

[BigpapaM109]

here is how it looks.



I am not concerned about grinding the bushing down as it would be a total of about 3 mm out of the whole thing. However, Lachoppers told me that this is normal. how is it normal? You are using a bushing, surrounded by rubber to pull the riser tight, though it will never touch the tree.

[ooinkk]

I'm looking at the pick, and on this phone it looks like a stack of washers under it
I'm wondering if the risers are properly recessed enough with that much clearance!

[TRod]

The bars do not sit flush on the upper tree due to the bushing which sits about 1/4 inch above the surface of the tree. There is a huge gap between the bars and the upper tree which looks like crap and the bars do not feel secure or stable. Tightened bolts to 61.5 ft lbs per the manual and it does not pull the bars any closer. Anyone else have this issue? The toolbag at Baron support was worthless. If I can get those bushings out I can use a Dremmel and make it flush I think but those bushings do not seem to be removeable even though the manual states to replace when worn.....HELP!

Even the stock risers do not sit down on the top triple. There is a rubber piece on the bottom of the riser between it and the top of the triple but it's not a tight fit at all. It's designed that way as the bushing in the triple sticks up and mates to a slight counterbore in the stock risers.

The bushing is there to provide some flex and vibration control. I'm a little surprised the bars don't have a similar counterbore to the stockers so that they sit a little closer to the triple. If you do grind some off, don't make it so the bars sit tight against the triple. Leave about an 1/8" gap and put a rubber filler in there to cover the gap.

Update: after talking to Giddy I think the bushings are sitting too high in the triple. When they put them back in after chroming I think they didn't drive them down far enough. I think you need to set them in a little deeper.

[Giddyup109]

I'm looking at the pick, and on this phone it looks like a stack of washers under it
I'm wondering if the risers are properly recessed enough with that much clearance!

Those are not washers, they are the top of the bushing that sticks out past the top of the tree. That is my problem, the bushing is not flush so the bars cannot possibly be.

[Zoom]

If you want to get the bushings out, put the triple tree in a freezer for a couple hours. The rubber gets hard enough that you can drive them out a lot easier. Before you freeze them find a socket or something that will go over the bushing but hit on the rubber and will pass through the tree.

Unless the gap is objectionable I doubt it would hurt leaving it. Those bushings are really tight in there and let it absorb some vibration. If you tighten the bars down tight to the tree they may pass along some vibration.

Another option, just in case the stock risers ever go back on, is to put some washers under the bottom that are big enough to go around the bushing and pull the rubber bushing down with the bolts. Might have to trim the rubber bushing off a little but it will get it flush on top.

My old Sportster bars are mounted like that. They wiggle and wobble but they've never fallen down.

[squirrel]

I made some washers out of rubber to put in between the bars and the trees.It also kept them from moving back and forth when you wiggle them Gregg

[KarateMoto]

here is how it looks.



I am not concerned about grinding the bushing down as it would be a total of about 3 mm out of the whole thing. However, Lachoppers told me that this is normal. how is it normal? You are using a bushing, surrounded by rubber to pull the riser tight, though it will never touch the tree.

That does look odd, huh? How much action (wobble) do you get from them . . more than stock?

[bmz]

The bars do not sit flush on the upper tree due to the bushing which sits about 1/4 inch above the surface of the tree. There is a huge gap between the bars and the upper tree which looks like crap and the bars do not feel secure or stable. Tightened bolts to 61.5 ft lbs per the manual and it does not pull the bars any closer. Anyone else have this issue? The toolbag at Baron support was worthless. If I can get those bushings out I can use a Dremmel and make it flush I think but those bushings do not seem to be removeable even though the manual states to replace when worn.....HELP!

Ok the best way is to remove the sleeve, get a drill , old drill bit that fits into the sleeve , . you are not going to drill the sleeve , you are going to heat the sleeve up it will then be able to be punched out then you will need 2 x S/STEEL washers one on the top of the tree one one the bottom, but unless you are 6foot 3 you my find the bars a real stretch they sit further a way than stock, i have made 2" angled risers ,you do need to make a angled bottom washer to match the angle of the riser. But watch when you are bolting the bars on, they cross thread real easy, i made studs up and thread them into the bars then it is easy to place a lock nut on under the tree..... also real easy to place bars onto the trees.Make sure you do have enough cable wiring as well as the throttle/brake and clutch cables , these bars are heavy as hell to hold up while you are trying to bolt them on . The bike i have was built by Barons ,it was the first time the baron bars were used on a m109r and they still got it wrong .The bars moved around due to the weight and angle.I have now got them right .

[Big-B]

Ok the best way is to remove the sleeve, get a drill , old drill bit that fits into the sleeve , . you are not going to drill the sleeve , you are going to heat the sleeve up it will then be able to be punched out then you will need 2 x S/STEEL washers one on the top of the tree one one the bottom, but unless you are 6foot 3 you my find the bars a real stretch they sit further a way than stock, i have made 2" angled risers ,you do need to make a angled bottom washer to match the angle of the riser. But watch when you are bolting the bars on, they cross thread real easy, i made studs up and thread them into the bars then it is easy to place a lock nut on under the tree..... also real easy to place bars onto the trees.Make sure you do have enough cable wiring as well as the throttle/brake and clutch cables , these bars are heavy as hell to hold up while you are trying to bolt them on . The bike i have was built by Barons ,it was the first time the baron bars were used on a m109r and they still got it wrong .The bars moved around due to the weight and angle.I have now got them right .

LOL obviously you have never seen Giddy. That reach won't be a problem.

[TRod]

Ok the best way is to remove the sleeve, get a drill , old drill bit that fits into the sleeve , . you are not going to drill the sleeve , you are going to heat the sleeve up it will then be able to be punched out then you will need 2 x S/STEEL washers one on the top of the tree one one the bottom, but unless you are 6foot 3 you my find the bars a real stretch they sit further a way than stock, i have made 2" angled risers ,you do need to make a angled bottom washer to match the angle of the riser. But watch when you are bolting the bars on, they cross thread real easy, i made studs up and thread them into the bars then it is easy to place a lock nut on under the tree..... also real easy to place bars onto the trees.Make sure you do have enough cable wiring as well as the throttle/brake and clutch cables , these bars are heavy as hell to hold up while you are trying to bolt them on . The bike i have was built by Barons ,it was the first time the baron bars were used on a m109r and they still got it wrong .The bars moved around due to the weight and angle.I have now got them right .

No disrespect intended, but what you describe isn't necessary. There is no need to remove anything. The bushing can stay, it just needs to be in the right place and since his upper triple was chromed, I think they didn't get the bushings pressed back into the right place and they need to be set a little lower in the triple.

The additional weight of the bars is insignificant in relation to the forces that are applied when you are riding. There is no need to remove the sleeve because of the extra bar weight.

[bmz]

No disrespect intended, but what you describe isn't necessary. There is no need to remove anything. The bushing can stay, it just needs to be in the right place and since his upper triple was chromed, I think they didn't get the bushings pressed back into the right place and they need to be set a little lower in the triple.

The additional weight of the bars is insignificant in relation to the forces that are applied when you are riding. There is no need to remove the sleeve because of the extra bar weight.

No problem . Just one thing and no disrespect. I did not buy the bars and place them on the bike , Barons Built my bike, the chrome trees are damaged. Sorry may have not made my self clear . the sleeve can say in but you do need to have the bars down firm on the tree be cause the bar does wobble, if you want to pull the bars back to you you may need to remove the sleeve , there is a 2" x 2'" new riser now made . 2" up and 2" forward.

[Giddyup109]

So I tried everything under the sun and no luck getting those bushing to budge the 1/4 inch I need for a nice clean install........Next step is a bearing press on Friday to get it almost flush. I have 2 nice thick rubber washers to seat in between the bars and the upper tree, also 2 more washers for the bottom of the bolt to draw the bars in nice and tight but also give me the flex and play the bars need. All of this hopefully will give me a nice clean but operationally sound set of bars. Thanks for all of the suggestions and advice.....I will keep you posted and get pics of the installed bars when I'm all done.

Sent from my Thunderbolt

[CHIEFSLACK5569]

Bro,
Did they send you 2 sets of bolts? It sounds and looks like you have the wrong bolt. You really have to torque them down. The rubber bushing is a B&^%& to compress, much more than what the manual calls for. Going in the bottom I have a flat washer then a lock washer. Hit me up if you need somemore info.

[Giddyup109]

Bro,
Did they send you 2 sets of bolts? It sounds and looks like you have the wrong bolt. You really have to torque them down. The rubber bushing is a B&^%& to compress, much more than what the manual calls for. Going in the bottom I have a flat washer then a lock washer. Hit me up if you need somemore info.

Yes I have 2 sets of bolts, the problem was the bushing was too far up in the tree. I had the bearing pressed down flush and that wasn't quite enough so I had it pressed in a little more and the bars are now flush with the tree and 90% of the play and slop in the bars is gone. They still move more than the stock set up but there is no getting around that. Thanks for the post...


Sent from my Thunderbolt