coolant boiling in the engine and draining out the overflow tank. mechanic is stumped
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 46

Thread: coolant boiling in the engine and draining out the overflow tank. mechanic is stumped

  1. #1
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default coolant boiling in the engine and draining out the overflow tank. mechanic is stumped

    im a motorcycle mechanic. i work alone so i have no techs next to me for advice. i have this 2008 M109R that keeps boiling the coolant out of the reserve tank. it fills up and comes out of the overflow tube. ive verified the fan temp switch is ok. the fan turns on at the designated temp. i removed the thermostat and put the housing back together and ran it with no thermostat at all. same problem. i ran some cooling system flush through the system for at least 6 hours of running time. then i cleaned it all out of the system. problem stayed the same. i removed the radiator and ran a water hose to it to verify that it had no blockages. it was ok. finns were all clean. i removed the waterpump to verify that it was ok. all parts of the pump looked fine. i put it all back together and the problem is still the same. each time, i bleed the air out of the cooling system according to the factory service manual. at this point i think i verified all components in the cooling system and they all checked out ok. maybe im not getting all the air out of the system and thats causing a vapor lock in the heads or something. i can literally hear the coolant boiling in the engine. heres what i do to bleed all the air out. i fill it with coolant, i rock the bike left to right over and over and keep adding coolant as i get air bubbles out. when i stop seeing bubbles, i leave the radiator cap off and run the engine to get more air out. instead of seeing bubbles come out, coolant just comes out of the radiator. so i think all the air is out. also i put a new radiator cap on to rule that part out. please give me any ideas to help me resolve this issue. thank you

  2. Remove Advertisements
    M109Riders.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Very Active Member HyperPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lancaster County, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    4,725

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mobilemichael View Post
    im a motorcycle mechanic. i work alone so i have no techs next to me for advice. i have this 2008 M109R that keeps boiling the coolant out of the reserve tank. it fills up and comes out of the overflow tube. ive verified the fan temp switch is ok. the fan turns on at the designated temp. i removed the thermostat and put the housing back together and ran it with no thermostat at all. same problem. i ran some cooling system flush through the system for at least 6 hours of running time. then i cleaned it all out of the system. problem stayed the same. i removed the radiator and ran a water hose to it to verify that it had no blockages. it was ok. finns were all clean. i removed the waterpump to verify that it was ok. all parts of the pump looked fine. i put it all back together and the problem is still the same. each time, i bleed the air out of the cooling system according to the factory service manual. at this point i think i verified all components in the cooling system and they all checked out ok. maybe im not getting all the air out of the system and thats causing a vapor lock in the heads or something. i can literally hear the coolant boiling in the engine. heres what i do to bleed all the air out. i fill it with coolant, i rock the bike left to right over and over and keep adding coolant as i get air bubbles out. when i stop seeing bubbles, i leave the radiator cap off and run the engine to get more air out. instead of seeing bubbles come out, coolant just comes out of the radiator. so i think all the air is out. also i put a new radiator cap on to rule that part out. please give me any ideas to help me resolve this issue. thank you
    My guess is that it's a bad head gasket, and that your actually hearing exhaust percolating in the coolant.

    EDIT: I knew there was a way to test this, had to find the info:

    One method is to use a block tester, also known as a combustion leak tester, to determine if you have exhaust gases in your cooling system. A combustion test kit can be found at your local NAPA, auto parts store. The part number is 700-1006. The price for this part is less than $50.00.
    Last edited by HyperPete; 02-13-2012 at 07:28 PM.


  4. #3
    Very Active Member Dr CNC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    742

    Default

    Or cracked head where air is getting in. Sounds like my Dads ols Nash


    "Four Wheels move the Body ~ Two Wheels Move the Soul"

  5. #4
    Very Active Member Mntsnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    North Salt Lake, UT
    Posts
    2,830

    Default

    As per the Service Manual

    AIR BLEEDING THE COOLING CIRCUIT
    Remove the fuel tank.
    Remove the right frame head cover.
    Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    Support the motorcycle upright.
    Slowly swing the motorcycle, right and left, to bleed the air
    trapped in the cooling circuit.
    Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    Start up the engine and bleed air from the radiator inlet completely.
    Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    Repeat the above procedure until bleed no air from the radiator
    inlet.
    Close the radiator cap securely.
    After warming up and cooling down the engine several times,
    add the engine coolant up to the full level of the reservoir.
    "
    (Engine coolant capacity
    Reservoir side: 250 ml (0.3/0.2 US/Imp qt)
    Engine side: 2 450 ml (2.6/2.2 US/Imp qt)

    You mention that you see coolant moving thru the radiator thus I would have to assume you do not have blockages and that yes your water pump is moving coolant....The next thing I would say is to double check all of your cooling system hoses to make sure you have them connected to the proper locations thus the coolant would be flowing in the proper directions etc.
    - Mntsnow -


    Respect turns into AWE with the twist of the Throttle!

  6. #5
    Very Active Member Mntsnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    North Salt Lake, UT
    Posts
    2,830

    Default

    btw a blown headgasket or crack block would be very easy to check for with a pressure gauge & pump on the cooling system
    - Mntsnow -


    Respect turns into AWE with the twist of the Throttle!

  7. #6
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HyperPete View Post
    My guess is that it's a bad head gasket, and that your actually hearing exhaust percolating in the coolant.
    i didnt think of that. thats very possible. but if it was a bad head gasket, wouldnt the coolant get into the cylinder and cause the exhaust to blow white smoke? my thinking is that its a 2 way street, if exhaust can get into the coolant, it should be able to go the other way too. i have been wrong before tho. lol. obviously nothing else i tried has fixed it yet. thanks hyperpete

  8. #7
    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    McPherson, KS
    Posts
    4,955

    Default

    I refill coolant systems all the time and here's what I do and it works every time to get the air out.

    Make sure the system is full to the cap. Make sure there is coolant in the overflow. Start engine and let idle for 10 minutes. Shut off and wait an hour. Check the overflow and refill if needed. Start engine and let idle for 10 minutes. Shut off and let cool 1 hour. Do that a 3rd time. Once cooled for the 3rd time, check the overflow tank again and then start the motor and let it idle for awhile to make sure that it's not going to puke anymore. Even till the fan comes on if it will (if it's too cool outside it might not run).

    If I don't do a 3 times heat/cool, the system will boil over every time because there's still air in it.

  9. #8
    Very Active Member jhorsf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    England
    Posts
    2,190

    Default

    If you use the probe on an exhaust gas analyser into the top of the expansion tank ( not in the coolant but above it) when the engine is running it will tell you if you have combustion gasses in the coolant.

    see here for test you need to use leak detector
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1om5...eature=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG-gD...eature=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P73Oj...eature=related


    Using exhaust gas tester

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIo-6hQnRp4

  10. #9
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mntsnow View Post
    btw a blown headgasket or crack block would be very easy to check for with a pressure gauge & pump on the cooling system
    unfortunately thats one of the tools i dont have. but i do have a leakdown tester. that should tell me the if the cylinder is leaking through the head gasket. thats the next test ill try

  11. #10
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TRod View Post
    I refill coolant systems all the time and here's what I do and it works every time to get the air out.

    Make sure the system is full to the cap. Make sure there is coolant in the overflow. Start engine and let idle for 10 minutes. Shut off and wait an hour. Check the overflow and refill if needed. Start engine and let idle for 10 minutes. Shut off and let cool 1 hour. Do that a 3rd time. Once cooled for the 3rd time, check the overflow tank again and then start the motor and let it idle for awhile to make sure that it's not going to puke anymore. Even till the fan comes on if it will (if it's too cool outside it might not run).

    If I don't do a 3 times heat/cool, the system will boil over every time because there's still air in it.
    thanks t rod. ill definitely do this in the morning too.

  12. #11
    Very Active Member antmor69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rockdale, Texas
    Posts
    5,272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mntsnow View Post
    As per the Service Manual

    AIR BLEEDING THE COOLING CIRCUIT
    • Remove the fuel tank.
    • Remove the right frame head cover.
    • Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    • Support the motorcycle upright.
    • Slowly swing the motorcycle, right and left, to bleed the air
    trapped in the cooling circuit.
    • Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    • Start up the engine and bleed air from the radiator inlet completely.
    • Add engine coolant up to the radiator inlet.
    • Repeat the above procedure until bleed no air from the radiator
    inlet.
    • Close the radiator cap securely.
    • After warming up and cooling down the engine several times,
    add the engine coolant up to the full level of the reservoir.
    "
    (Engine coolant capacity
    Reservoir side: 250 ml (0.3/0.2 US/Imp qt)
    Engine side: 2 450 ml (2.6/2.2 US/Imp qt)

    You mention that you see coolant moving thru the radiator thus I would have to assume you do not have blockages and that yes your water pump is moving coolant....The next thing I would say is to double check all of your cooling system hoses to make sure you have them connected to the proper locations thus the coolant would be flowing in the proper directions etc.
    I've read this procedure before but I've yet to figure out how to start the engine with the fuel tank removed.

  13. #12
    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Annapolis, Md
    Posts
    26,613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HyperPete View Post
    My guess is that it's a bad head gasket, and that your actually hearing exhaust percolating in the coolant.

    EDIT: I knew there was a way to test this, had to find the info:

    One method is to use a block tester, also known as a combustion leak tester, to determine if you have exhaust gases in your cooling system. A combustion test kit can be found at your local NAPA, auto parts store. The part number is 700-1006. The price for this part is less than $50.00.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mntsnow View Post
    btw a blown headgasket or crack block would be very easy to check for with a pressure gauge & pump on the cooling system
    and you can take a emissions sniffer to see if you are getting a HC reading for a quick test.

    Especialy since you have tested and ruled out
    1. Thermostat
    2. Water pump (some go bad and have no bearing play)
    3.Radiator flow test
    4.Fan switch and fan
    Last edited by rynosback; 02-14-2012 at 12:50 AM.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE


  14. #13
    Very Active Member bwl60's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    High Rolls Mountain Park, New Mexico
    Posts
    1,114

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mobilemichael View Post
    unfortunately thats one of the tools i dont have. but i do have a leakdown tester. that should tell me the if the cylinder is leaking through the head gasket. thats the next test ill try
    When you presureize the leakdown tester have the raditor full to the very top and see if you get bubbles in it. If so then you know you have a problem in the head, gasket or cylinder somewhere.

  15. #14
    Active Member
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Narrabeen, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    75

    Default Loss of coolant

    Quote Originally Posted by bwl60 View Post
    When you presureize the leakdown tester have the raditor full to the very top and see if you get bubbles in it. If so then you know you have a problem in the head, gasket or cylinder somewhere.
    In a car engine with a blown head gasket often the coolant can track into an oilway and contaminate the oil - check the oil on the dipstick - coolant contamination will turn the oil a milky colour

    Good luck

  16. #15
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    ok, im still stumped. heres what ive done since the last post. i did a compression test. its fine. i did a cylinder leakdown test. no bubbles on radiator from a bad head gasket. i heated the bike up and let it cool about 7 times throughout the day. every time i let it cool i would tilt the bike from left to right about 20 times to allow any air bubbles to work their way to the fill spout. i could not get any bubbles out. it still continues to fill the overflow tank until it sprays out of the overflow tube. when i let the bike idle and warm up, the overflow tank rises a few inches as normal, but once it rises a little, when i give it some throttle, it rapidly fills the bottle to overflow. it will overflow without the boiling sound but if i let it get warmer it begins to boil inside the engine. ive never had an overheating issue i couldnt diagnose. this is a head scratcher for sure. i really appreciate all your help.

  17. #16
    Very Active Member BAD BOY M109R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harwood Mo. (SW)
    Posts
    3,273

    Default

    could have a crack (in the head or water jacket) that does not leak until it gets so hot it expands...

    also when you had the water pump off did you make sure the propeller was affixed to the shaft solid I have seen them where the would start slipping on the shaft looked good but the engine would over heat when running. also did you put the thermostat in a pan and make sure it opened when it is suppose to? I do not know about our bikes but I have heard some cars will overheat without a thermostat
    Last edited by BAD BOY M109R; 02-15-2012 at 06:30 PM.
    BONE STOCK

  18. #17
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,226

    Default

    Since we are scratching our heads lets get back to basics if you will, when you checked the thermostat how did you do so? Did you verify the actual temp needed for it to open? Is it opening all the way?

  19. #18
    Very Active Member antmor69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rockdale, Texas
    Posts
    5,272

    Default

    You could pressurize the cooling system and let it sit overnight. Then remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over and see if it spits coolant out of the spark plug holes.

  20. #19
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BAD BOY M109R View Post
    could have a crack (in the head or water jacket) that does not leak until it gets so hot it expands...

    also when you had the water pump off did you make sure the propeller was affixed to the shaft solid I have seen them where the would start slipping on the shaft looked good but the engine would over heat when running. also did you put the thermostat in a pan and make sure it opened when it is suppose to? I do not know about our bikes but I have heard some cars will overheat without a thermostat
    i did verify the thermostat opened when it was supposed to. also when i had the water pump off i tried to make sure that the impeller was fixedd to the shaft. ill recheck it tomorrow jjust to be sure. thanks

  21. #20
    Very Active Member jrrose69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Brandon, South Dakota
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Hey like someone said you very easily have a crack that does not open up till it warm or hot I've seen this on alum. heads on cars and is very hard to find find you have removed all the obvious items unless there is some way you got the routing wrong but that's doubtful also when you did you leak down test did you do it as normal top dead as if crack is in the cylinder somewhere it will not show up as rings are holding preside away from the crack you know what I mean anyway that's all that comes to mind keep us up to date

  22. #21
    Very Active Member Nitrogary's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Portland Oregon-Natures Natural Sunblock
    Posts
    1,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mobilemichael View Post
    im a motorcycle mechanic. i work alone so i have no techs next to me for advice. i have this 2008 M109R that keeps boiling the coolant out of the reserve tank. it fills up and comes out of the overflow tube. ive verified the fan temp switch is ok. the fan turns on at the designated temp. i removed the thermostat and put the housing back together and ran it with no thermostat at all. same problem. i ran some cooling system flush through the system for at least 6 hours of running time. then i cleaned it all out of the system. problem stayed the same. i removed the radiator and ran a water hose to it to verify that it had no blockages. it was ok. finns were all clean. i removed the waterpump to verify that it was ok. all parts of the pump looked fine. i put it all back together and the problem is still the same. each time, i bleed the air out of the cooling system according to the factory service manual. at this point i think i verified all components in the cooling system and they all checked out ok. maybe im not getting all the air out of the system and thats causing a vapor lock in the heads or something. i can literally hear the coolant boiling in the engine. heres what i do to bleed all the air out. i fill it with coolant, i rock the bike left to right over and over and keep adding coolant as i get air bubbles out. when i stop seeing bubbles, i leave the radiator cap off and run the engine to get more air out. instead of seeing bubbles come out, coolant just comes out of the radiator. so i think all the air is out. also i put a new radiator cap on to rule that part out. please give me any ideas to help me resolve this issue. thank you
    i gotta give you total respect for coming on here and allowing some of our experts to assist you....i cant recall one single dealer coming on here to inquire about anything in the year ive been here and yet we continually hear horror stories of how the dealers screwing things up....i would take my bike to you in a heartbeat after seeing this post.....not everyone can know everyhting and clearly you are truly intereseted in solving your customers problem....kudos bro

    2007 Black M109R, Metzler 260/160,Debadge/Beav,HK Sideburner,Cobra Power Pro CVT,dropped 2",PC'd wheels,Ducks Cowl with LED's (yes,the rear seat cowl ! ),Kury all around,Holley Intakes,Garmin,2" Risers,Driver Backrest, Jardine Quick release billet backrest,Tach relocate,Odyssey battery, YS side plate,Alarm,V-stream sport, Factory engine guards, matuza GA bags on ghost brackets, Throttle tamer, jt's night rider. Gel seat, more to come

  23. #22
    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Annapolis, Md
    Posts
    26,613

    Default

    But if you really have checked and confirmed everything you stated, I still think a blown head gasket. Take it to an automotive shop that has an engine analyzer with the emissions sniffer and check for HC (hydro carbons) coming out of the radiator. Not that it really makes a difference, but what year is the bike and did you take a PH level of the old coolant? If it was high and can damage things like sensors and gaskets. Have you let it run with it being a little low in the radiator with the cap off checked the flow of the coolant once the thermostat opened up?

    How did you confirm all of the items you state are good?
    Example: thermostate- did you pull it and put it into a beaker or pot with water with a thermometer and check to see when it opened? Or did you just compress it and thought it works, it is not stuck.


    If you want to talk about it, Pm me your number and I can give you a call.
    Last edited by rynosback; 02-15-2012 at 10:44 PM.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE


  24. #23
    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    22,638

    Default

    I don't see where this was mentioned, but have you checked the radiator cap? I'm not sure what pressure these hold, but if one on a car/truck goes bad and won't hold pressure it boils easily and vents into the overflow sooner. At the top end of the temp range where the fan kicks on water is very close to the normal boiling point.


    Life has no remote control, get up and change it yourself.

  25. #24
    Very Active Member Munster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Niagara Falls, Ontario Canada
    Posts
    694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HyperPete View Post
    My guess is that it's a bad head gasket, and that your actually hearing exhaust percolating in the coolant.

    EDIT: I knew there was a way to test this, had to find the info:

    One method is to use a block tester, also known as a combustion leak tester, to determine if you have exhaust gases in your cooling system. A combustion test kit can be found at your local NAPA, auto parts store. The part number is 700-1006. The price for this part is less than $50.00.
    I agree. Test the system with a combustion leak tester. If you don't have one of these available, I would try to locate a pressure tester.

    Pull the spark plugs out and pressurize the coolant system. Leave it for awhile; Take a look at the gauge, then look into the cylinders to see if there's any coolant in there.

    If what you have described in your pre-diagnosis holds true, it sounds like a leaking head gasket.

    Note, if your radiator cap is holding pressure, then the coolant's boiling point should increase. If it's not holding pressure, coolant will boil and mislead you into thinking it's a head gasket problem.

    Good luck!

  26. #25
    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Annapolis, Md
    Posts
    26,613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zoom View Post
    I don't see where this was mentioned, but have you checked the radiator cap? I'm not sure what pressure these hold, but if one on a car/truck goes bad and won't hold pressure it boils easily and vents into the overflow sooner. At the top end of the temp range where the fan kicks on water is very close to the normal boiling point.
    I posted the samething just abhove yours and then took it off, as it is the last thing stated in his original post. Not to say that it could not be bad out of the box. He should test it, but it is a simple process.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE


  27. #26
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    still havent figured it out but heres what im finding today. i had removed the water pump, raddiator and thermostat. i made a hose plug with an air blower in it to verify the lines were all clear. everything seemed to be clear. so i put everything back together. today i didnt let it warrm up at all. i started it up and cracked the throttle a few times. maybe 4 or 5. it immediately blew coolant into the overflow bottle to the point that it was full and leaking. the bike was only running for 15 seconds. so the system seems to be over pressurized. i even tried a different radiator from a diffferent bike on it just to see what happened. it had its own radiator fill spout on the radiator. when i ran it, the pressure inside was enough to blow past the radiator cap on the substitute radiator and the cap on the m109r. so its not overflowing due to heat. it seems to be pressure related. like its immediately building up too much pressure when i crack the throttle. not evenn full throttle. just a quick rev.

  28. #27
    Very Active Member futurR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    2,063

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mobilemichael View Post
    still havent figured it out but heres what im finding today. i had removed the water pump, raddiator and thermostat. i made a hose plug with an air blower in it to verify the lines were all clear. everything seemed to be clear. so i put everything back together. today i didnt let it warrm up at all. i started it up and cracked the throttle a few times. maybe 4 or 5. it immediately blew coolant into the overflow bottle to the point that it was full and leaking. the bike was only running for 15 seconds. so the system seems to be over pressurized. i even tried a different radiator from a diffferent bike on it just to see what happened. it had its own radiator fill spout on the radiator. when i ran it, the pressure inside was enough to blow past the radiator cap on the substitute radiator and the cap on the m109r. so its not overflowing due to heat. it seems to be pressure related. like its immediately building up too much pressure when i crack the throttle. not evenn full throttle. just a quick rev.


    Then you are only left with one conclusion---either a blown head gasket or a crack in the head. That is the only thing that can produce that result.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

  29. #28
    Very Active Member BAD BOY M109R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harwood Mo. (SW)
    Posts
    3,273

    Default

    BONE STOCK

  30. #29
    Member mobilemichael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    Then you are only left with one conclusion---either a blown head gasket or a crack in the head. That is the only thing that can produce that result.

    im gonna pick up the leak testing kit from napa on monday. thats gotta be the problem cuz ive ruled everything else out. i really appreciate all your guys input. ill definitely let you know what the resolution is if i ever find one

  31. #30
    Very Active Member jrrose69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Brandon, South Dakota
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    Then you are only left with one conclusion---either a blown head gasket or a crack in the head. That is the only thing that can produce that result.
    the pressure is coming. from the compression chamber most likely head gasket next step pull the heads off it the only why the cooling system can pressurized that fast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •