Hi all, just wanted to share with guys the step by step procedure on how to change the LEDs on the speedo and tach. I had the classical Orange but to my personal taste is a very depressing color and also red and orange is hard for me to read it at night. I used the PLCC2's Surface Mounts LEDs. After reviewing the voltage drop range and wavelength did some Ohmís law calculations base on the resistors already installed by the factory (just to be on the safe side). I used all the ESD safety precautions when doing this MOD because you have to expose the "PC board" of course and components could be damage by static if not handled safely.
SORRY I DONíT HAVE PICS FOR THE TACH PROCEDURE GOT DISTRACTED AFTER I FOUND OUT I HAD TO REMOVE THE HANDLEBAR
First I started by removing the speedo and tach once again: I HAD TO REMOVED THE HANDLE BAR as directed by the service manual.
I donít have pictures of removing the back white plate but refer to the reassembly portion of this threat it looks the same
Once the face plate is removed the board can be removed freely from back plate.
Motor for the speed needle can be removed by removing all its solder on the 4 pins at the center . I replaced the Board by itself back in the black faceplate (bottom pic) to protect the needle from getting damage, being hit or spin roughly.
When the needle component is freed and all solder is removed I proceeded to remove the 4 screws to disassemble the board from the face plate frame by removing soldering on the digital screens.
Once out, this piece needs to be handled with extreme care since it holds the needle motor and to digital screens. I then proceeded to replace the LEDs making sure I followed the polarization. Basically as you removed them install them the same way they came out. The board has a triangle show where the dash mark on the LED should be placed. The blue circles indicate another location for LEDs. I was pretty sure this board was worked before because those locations (circled blue) were already empty. I left those empty because of bleeding through the edges and at night time could be a little annoying.
After removing LEDs clean the pads to install the new LEDs.
After installing all new LEDs the correct way making sure once again the polarization is correct and that you have done a clean job proceed to install the faceplate to the board.
NOTE: The brown stain around the LEDs is not a big deal. I'm using high quality FAA approved Flux. Boards are normally printed green, this one is printed white on the top as you see and the bottom is normal green. Green is always gloss so it wont retain any flux. The white does. It's a nature thing of manufacturers.
I put them together by soldering together the needle motor and digital screens to the board (marked in red).
Its reassembly TIME!!!
After the previous step I proceeded to install the back plate and faceplate. Harness goes through the rubber grommet which is fitted in the back plate and then zip tied to the metal ring hook which is also attached to the back plate with two screws.
After everything installed back together ran different tests. I even put it on my snare drum and play some blast speed Metal on it on my drumsÖ
AndÖ the final product all finished. Dodger blue baby!!!
Hope this post provides some assistance to whoever is planning on doing this Mod. If any of you are interested you can send me a PM for advice and Iím also able to do it if any of you are interested. Excellent rates on returned shipping available.