M109 Oil and filter change - per M109 service manual
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  1. #1
    Active Member dba777's Avatar
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    Default M109 Oil and filter change - per M109 service manual

    I completeted first oil change per M109 service manual. Attached are oil change instrucitons per M109 manual, and M109 maintenance chart. From now on, I will never pay dealer $100 to change oil on my bike...

    Engine Oil:
    Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or equivalent engine oil. Use of API SF/SG or SH/SJ with JASO MA.

    Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil.

    Oil Filter: per suzuki, I used OEM filter sold by DLP: http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8482&str=290


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    Very Active Member lostrider's Avatar
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    Oil changes are very easy to do yourself and cost way less than 100 bucks to do yourself. A couple of things to look out for when changing oil on this bike.

    1) Be very careful with the drain plugs (there are 2 at the oil pan) they tend to strip very easy if you muscle them or cross thread them.

    2) the Suzuki filter is a good filter as is the K&N or Amsoil filters. (Change it every oil change, cheap enough and gets out most of the oil except for some that you can not drain without a total motor tear down)

    3) do some research and see which oil you would like to use. There are different feelings on oil weights and type. All good info. Just search "oil" and read away.

    4) 15/3 oil level check is the way to go after the oil change. Takes time but is accurate.

    5) I personally change the Final Drive fluid every oil change. It is not at all required but it takes about 5 mins to do and cost next to nothing to do as well.

    6) save all receipts for the oil and filters you buy to show that you are taking care of the bike properly. They (Suzuki) can not void your warranty for doing your own oil changes. Although they will always try and bail out on any claim.
    Last edited by lostrider; 04-04-2010 at 10:16 PM.

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    Gonna sound dumb but whatever lol.. whats a 15/3 oil level check?? how much oil do they take anyways? just got my 109 2 weeks ago and plan to change over to synthetic next week..

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    Very Active Member Blakester71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greek109 View Post
    Gonna sound dumb but whatever lol.. whats a 15/3 oil level check?? how much oil do they take anyways? just got my 109 2 weeks ago and plan to change over to synthetic next week..
    15/3 is when checking oil level. Run the bike for 15 mins, then let sit for 3. THEN check oil level (with the bike being level) If you put too much in too much oil, your left air filter will let you know. Not a good way to find out you over filled it.

    The dumb question is the question not asked

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    Very Active Member msmitch459's Avatar
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    http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69138
    This is what I used when I first started.
    Steve
    2008 C109R, PC5

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    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    I got some 20W50 , (Mobil 1 , synthetic)
    anybody else used that viscosity
    without problems or not

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    Default Oil choice...

    Hey,
    I checked all of the Mobil 1 oils I could find recently and none carried the recommended additives...

    Use of API SF/SG or SH/SJ with JASO MA.

    Might wanna check before you use the oil... The additives are for your wet plate clutch life expectancy...

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    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Got the oil at Walmart , Montreal , one liter bottles
    " API SG,SH/CF JASO MA "
    Mobil 1 V-Twin motorcycle oil 20w50 4 cycle
    Synthetic.
    the additive seem to match don't they ?
    for warmer summer riding I will try this one
    a 2 day ride coming up , in the next 2 weeks
    I will see if it is acting up....

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    Kazimodo I use the same 20w-50 here and no problem

    Seems to shift smoother and no puking

    Dave


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    I use Suzuki performance 4-cycle engine oil SAE 10w-40. It meets or exceeds API SF/SG; SH/SJ with JASO MA. Its only 5.25 qt. It takes less then 4 qts. plus 6 dollar filter and u have an oil change for less then 30 dollars.

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    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by candave650 View Post
    Kazimodo I use the same 20w-50 here and no problem

    Seems to shift smoother and no puking

    Dave
    Thanks Dave , I'll try this kind this time
    at $ 13.27 a liter , we are far from the $6.00 price our
    american brothers are talking about in another thread
    the dollar almost at par and we still get robbed.
    At least it is less than the $17.00 /liter
    asked for at the Suzuki dealer.

    Paid $14.00 + tax for filter , Sarmen 4 says they are
    $ 6.00 in California , biking in Canada is a luxury as
    oppposed to a hobby in the states.

    While I'm at it $18.00 + tax for a quart of Amsoil synthetic gear oil .

    Doing the job myself will cost me around $80.00 for oil change and diff oil change
    maybe I should get a few filters shipped from states , even if it comes even
    at least I will not encourage exageration...
    Last edited by Kazimodo; 06-10-2010 at 10:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dba777 View Post
    I completeted first oil change per M109 service manual. Attached are oil change instrucitons per M109 manual, and M109 maintenance chart. From now on, I will never pay dealer $100 to change oil on my bike...

    Engine Oil:
    Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or equivalent engine oil. Use of API SF/SG or SH/SJ with JASO MA.

    Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil.

    Oil Filter: per suzuki, I used OEM filter sold by DLP: http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8482&str=290


    This is all in the owners manaual dude!!! But cool that you work on your own bike. Don't really trust anyone to do it right anyway. Plan on doing my own work also.

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    Very Active Member big69's Avatar
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    Don't forget to twist on the oil filter with your fingers one hand stop when they start to slip.
    Quote by Jutah
    That shift to second is easy to miss if you don't shift it like you mean it.

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    Very Active Member She's real fine my 109's Avatar
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    I run the 15/50 Mobil 1 synthetic with a dash of Lucas. I'm up around 45,000 and have not touched my bike. I also run the Mobil gear oil in the hub.

    When you change out the dyno oil I would advice you change out your first oil change early to flush out the dyno oil. Hub and motor. The dyno oil is nothing to mess with.

    I also change out my oil at round 4,000. After that it starts to get clacky.
    Now that i'm up on miles I just use the Lucas to add to the oil before a change.

    Do not push this bike when its new and not seated.

    I didn't feel a difference in this bike till I was up over 25,000. Now at over 40,000 she's smooth as silk. No 2 gear bag. The trans take just as long to brake in as the motor. She's a beast and should be treated as such.

    Good luck with your new bike.
    Good combo for the nine. 265/40/18 or P265/45R 18 Michelin Pilot Sport and Metz 130/70/18 front. Try it, youll like it.
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    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by She's real fine my 109 View Post
    I didn't feel a difference in this bike till I was up over 25,000. Now at over 40,000 she's smooth as silk. No 2 gear bag. The trans take just as long to brake in as the motor. She's a beast and should be treated as such.

    Good luck with your new bike.
    This is good to hear. I am about to turn 25,000 this week, and I must say, it seems to be running and shifting smoother. I have been thinking about switching to 20/50 at my next oil change.

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    Very Active Member She's real fine my 109's Avatar
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    I run with 15/50. Its good for all seasons being here in New England. I read some good things about zink and what it does so i run with the 15/50 because it has it in it.
    Last edited by She's real fine my 109; 06-16-2010 at 01:44 PM.
    Good combo for the nine. 265/40/18 or P265/45R 18 Michelin Pilot Sport and Metz 130/70/18 front. Try it, youll like it.
    What other people think of you is none of your business.
    Never judge someone by the opinion of another.

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    Default 2012 M109R

    I just put in Amsoil synthetic oil 20w 50. Hope this is good for upcoming summer.

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    Seems simple enough. Guess I will save some money
    Last edited by OGPAULG; 07-06-2014 at 02:53 PM.
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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    I use a full four quarts of Suzuki 20W-50 every 3000 miles. Never once had a problem. Don't have the puke problem either. And if I ever do, it'll end up in a bottle under the left engine side cover, that's where the hoses are routed to. As of yet, never had a drop of oil in it. I just put in four quarts and don't bother checking it the entire 3000 miles.
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    Very Active Member La Mulita's Avatar
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    Default My bike is weird!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    I use a full four quarts of Suzuki 20W-50 every 3000 miles. Never once had a problem. Don't have the puke problem either. And if I ever do, it'll end up in a bottle under the left engine side cover, that's where the hoses are routed to. As of yet, never had a drop of oil in it. I just put in four quarts and don't bother checking it the entire 3000 miles.

    Let me say something about this oil change TRICK (because it is a trick, at least for me)!

    When I do mine, I flush the old oil and after drained I screw the plugs back on and always have to add 3 quarts first and idle the bike 15 minutes, turn it off and wait 3 minutes check oil level and add another 200 ml to ensure the level is full. If I ever do more oil than this, is gonna puke 100% of the times. My friend says he uses an entire jog of oil and he never has that issue, why? I just don't know! He has same bike as me, but he later told me he removes a couple more bolts (tiny on the sides) and he starts the bike for a few seconds to flush as much oil as he can. I don't know if this is a good idea but when he added this to his METHOD I understood the why he can pour that much oil in his bike without puking.

    Now I always use MOBIL 1 Synthetic 10-40, It runs really smooth, shifts really smooth and never had a problem, I did try a couple of brands before and I could feel the difference, so MOBIL is my choice. I use the same (5-40) on my old reliable 2000 Tahoe and 225K miles and going strong.

    So everytime that oil change comes into the forum, is interesting to see how many different ways of doing it exhist and it goes there to say that is not so easy when it comes down to avoid puking, at least for me.

    But sure, I will always do mine and save the trip to the STEALER!!!

    Time is short and have thousands of miles to ride!!!

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Don't know why the bikes differ so much. I drain mine fully, let it sit for an hour or so on the stand, then hold it vertical, and using a long mirror, watch it until it stops. Then on the stand and more comes out. Remove filter and get all that oil out. Put four quarts in, mine never even shows overfull on the dipstick. Maxed out, yeah. But that's the way I like it, maxed out. I run all my vehicles with the oil level as high as I can get it, including automatic transmissions, power steering pumps and brake reservoirs.

    All you can do is what works for you. Evidently I have been lucky with my bike. It takes four quarts and does not spit back one drop. I'm thinking of trying 10W-40 next time, just to see if the bikes mileage goes up. Only getting around 30 mpg, but that is riding it pretty hard all the time, and mostly in city/town.
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    An stupid question. When you measure the oil, do you measure it screwing the stick all the way in, or just stick it without screwing it?
    2007 M109R, Mods: Avon Air Grips, Custom Derby Cover, Rivco Brake Pedal, TRE.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flcusat View Post
    An stupid question. When you measure the oil, do you measure it screwing the stick all the way in, or just stick it without screwing it?
    Just stick in and out you do not have to screw in, Pedro I just put in 3.75 and close it up. It won't matter as 1500 miles you'll have to add more.


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    Default 20w40??

    Here is something for you to ponder. I used to work in the HD parts industry and did a little research on syn oil when I wanted to change mine over. I spoke with an engineer from Shell (Rotella T) and asked him about the viscosity changeover. He replied get the lowest first number you can get. He said that Shell was currently developing a 0w40 oil for the HD industry. The reasoning is this, the first number is the oil's thickness when cold i.e. cold start up. This is important in all engines as this is when most of your engine wear will occur, not when it's warm. I have run Rotella T 5w40 in my bike for the past two seasons with no issues based on the engineer's opinion. Auto manufactures have even lowered their first numbers over the years. It used to always be 10w30, 10w40 etc. and it's now 5w20, 5w30 etc.

    So, IMHO 20w40 is not a good weight to run and is not a recomended Suzuki weight and could easily be a reason to deny warranty.

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    Quote Originally Posted by some 9 View Post
    Just stick in and out you do not have to screw in, Pedro I just put in 3.75 and close it up. It won't matter as 1500 miles you'll have to add more.


    Thanks Andy.
    Are you saying that if you check the oil 1500 miles after the change you found you burned some oil, assuming you don't have a leak?
    2007 M109R, Mods: Avon Air Grips, Custom Derby Cover, Rivco Brake Pedal, TRE.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flcusat View Post
    Thanks Andy.
    Are you saying that if you check the oil 1500 miles after the change you found you burned some oil, assuming you don't have a leak?
    Yep I always have to add, I do the cold check.
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    Quote Originally Posted by some 9 View Post
    Yep I always have to add, I do the cold check.
    Interesting. How much usually you need to add?
    How is the cold check method?
    Is anyone else seeing this behavior?
    2007 M109R, Mods: Avon Air Grips, Custom Derby Cover, Rivco Brake Pedal, TRE.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flcusat View Post
    Interesting. How much usually you need to add?
    How is the cold check method?
    Is anyone else seeing this behavior?
    About 1/2 qt, cold check before you ride you want the oil just touch the stick.
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    I'm sorry about 1/4 qt. Misjudge my oz's
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