2 inch riser install - Brake hose length ??
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Thread: 2 inch riser install - Brake hose length ??

  1. #1
    Very Active Member Dragonback's Avatar
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    Default 2 inch riser install - Brake hose length ??

    Hey guys.. I just installed the 2" KewlMetal holy chromed risers and noticed that the hose that connects to the t connector and feeds the 2 hoses going down to the Brake calipers are somewhat taught. I even unscrewed to give it a little more room. Anyone who has added 2 inch risers have had this problem? and if so what was the solution if any.. can that part be replaced with a longer hose. hate the fact that its "crimped" to the
    t-connector. and they dont even have a number for it..
    its the top hose if you look at the following link
    http://www.alpha-sports.com/scrz/2007%20M109R/20.htm

    thanks,

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    I have wrapped the block and did not install the #2 bolt to give it a little more slack on other members bikes. You also should be able to get a little more slack from the lower lines. They are mounted in a couple of other places. If you take the headligh bucket off you will see what I'm talking about.
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  4. #3
    Very Active Member Dragonback's Avatar
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    Yeah.. I gave other lines more slack and didnt connect #2 bolt either.. just seems a little tight to me... but it works... was just wondering if anyone else had to do any other mods...

    thanx

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    PM Zoom or I'm sure he will reply to this post soon.
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    Very Active Member infernl's Avatar
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    If you simply allow the junction block to float, you will have zero issues. I have two inch risers and did this... after well over 800 miles on the new risers and cables, I have no issues.
    2008 M109R Custom Geiger-inspired graphics: Debeaver/debaffle/throttle lock/ISO pegs & grips/2-inch risers/tach/fat forks/Barnett +3 cables/'Zook guards/re-route clutch/speed bleeders/Arnott Air Ride/PM Heathen Wheels/280 rear/120 front/PM rotors/Galfer pads/Galfer brake lines/PM contrast cut brake calipers/down under rear brake bracket/LED low profile turn signals front and rear/scorpion exhaust tips/side mount plate/blue boa constrictor leather saddle/custom paint by Charles Armstrong

  7. #6
    Very Active Member SgtDuke's Avatar
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    I flipped the braket on the T block and it works great with 3 inch riser extensions.

  8. #7
    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
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    I took it loose completely, per the installation video, and it works fine. It can float up enough that I think it would work with the 3" risers easily, as Sgt did on his. Are you sure it's not hanging up somewhere?

    Here's the video in case you haven't seen it, but there's really only one bolt and a bracket holding it to the bike.

    2 inch riser install video


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  9. #8
    Very Active Member Dragonback's Avatar
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    Zoom.. thnaks, I did the install and its fine.. just found cables to be a little taught... I noticed I did not take the triple tree off.. so the cable were not rerouted... I'll see if I can reroute... in near future...
    I also like sarge's Idea of flipping bracket.. cant believe I didnt think of it at the time... maybe it was the 35 degree weather in my garage at the time... :)

    Again thanks, and have a happy holiday season

  10. #9
    Very Active Member infernl's Avatar
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    I didn't remove the triple either, but a re-route isn't necessary if you're doing the extended clutch and throttle cables. This is the whole reason I went with the Barnetts cables in the first place.

    Since I pulled my bars and tach housing last night to swap in a new tach LCD into my Kewl Metal setup, I took a closer look at the mount that would have to be flipped to bolt the T-block block back up. There is a locating tab on the mount for the T-block that serves to keep the mount situated when tightened up. If you flip it, this no longer works. I chose not to flip the bracket at all. Instead, i'll fab up a small tab with holes at each end. One end will bolt back to the mount and the other will be a bolt with a nylock nut and locking washer that will serve to keep the T-block in place. Then again, its not slapping the back of the nacelle or the triple, so I am in no rush at all to get this done.

    I did wrap the tach cable in high temp, high strength electrical tape before I put it back together though. No more ugly silver cable wrap... WOOT!
    2008 M109R Custom Geiger-inspired graphics: Debeaver/debaffle/throttle lock/ISO pegs & grips/2-inch risers/tach/fat forks/Barnett +3 cables/'Zook guards/re-route clutch/speed bleeders/Arnott Air Ride/PM Heathen Wheels/280 rear/120 front/PM rotors/Galfer pads/Galfer brake lines/PM contrast cut brake calipers/down under rear brake bracket/LED low profile turn signals front and rear/scorpion exhaust tips/side mount plate/blue boa constrictor leather saddle/custom paint by Charles Armstrong

  11. #10
    Very Active Member Dragonback's Avatar
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    Yeah.. I also noticed that just letting it float poses no harm either.. and the fact that it's a bit taught helps.. I just didnt want to put any strain on the cable...
    I think a coincidink but for the first time since I had the bike. when i went to take off it gave me a little jump/hesitation.
    I looked up and noticed that similar symtoms were due to clutch assembly then noticed it was noted in 07's. But then to my happy supprise it was also mentioned it was noted in Cold start.. and I did take off right away and the weather was 35 degrees.. and thankfully I didnt noticed after first time all ride long.. but it got me a little nervouse thinking I was pulling on the Clutch cable... SO far so good...
    Actually in the Video Zoom sent me link to.. I saw the guy just wrap IT. and I too wrapped the Silver cable with black tape and then ran it through the top most hole to meet the other cables and tie wrapped them together...

  12. #11
    Very Active Member infernl's Avatar
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    Dragonback,

    Just be glad you dind't pull a boner like I did and try to make the tach fit better in a Kewl Metal tach housing...

    SNAP! - I busted the crap out of the original one... and the one I got to replace it... the guy was nice enough to cut the plugs off for me... The cable does NOT unplug - its soldered into place... Luckily my circuit board is okay, so I just swapped the LCD portion only after separating it carefully from the so-called "New off bike" tach assembly.

    There's nothing like sweating bullets trying to fix something...
    2008 M109R Custom Geiger-inspired graphics: Debeaver/debaffle/throttle lock/ISO pegs & grips/2-inch risers/tach/fat forks/Barnett +3 cables/'Zook guards/re-route clutch/speed bleeders/Arnott Air Ride/PM Heathen Wheels/280 rear/120 front/PM rotors/Galfer pads/Galfer brake lines/PM contrast cut brake calipers/down under rear brake bracket/LED low profile turn signals front and rear/scorpion exhaust tips/side mount plate/blue boa constrictor leather saddle/custom paint by Charles Armstrong

  13. #12
    Very Active Member Dragonback's Avatar
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    Hey.. ***** Happens and sometime we learn the hard way... I just went outside to take some pictures and noticed that when I turn the handlebar to the right, it does pull the throttle and brake cables... I'll try put under triple since it also hides the risers thus defeating the "beuaty"

    Pics to come...

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