Any bad effects from an aftermarket air intake?
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Thread: Any bad effects from an aftermarket air intake?

  1. #1
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    Default Any bad effects from an aftermarket air intake?

    I was youtubing some aftermarket air intakes and found an interesting test for a car intake system that showed that at low RPMs the aftermarket air intake actually lost power. The power gains came only at high RPMs. I thought this was curious.

    Anyone ever found any bad effects from installing a new air intake?

    lb

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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Although the masses here believe that changing just the exhaust or the intake is ok to do without an aftermarket fuel management system or flashing the ecu to accommodate the changes. However these bikes already come from factory on the lean side to pass us emissions regs but my belief is changing just an intake can very well push your bike out of spec on the way lean side and cause running issues which can damage. Of course this depends on the type of intake and what your bike is currently set to run at. As i said this is my opinion and many other feel differently but the way i see it, why take the chance?

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    You're talking about a car intake. They can affect the power band because most of them replace the intake tube between the MAF and the throttle body with a new tube which is larger in diameter. A smaller diameter tube keeps the air velocity in the tube higher, which helps in low end. When you put a larger tube on, the air velocity slows down, which affects low end. As a for instance, my V-6 Ranger has a 3 inch MAF and TB. The original tube between them was pinched down to about 1.5 inches. The one I put on in 2002 is a full 3.0 inches, no more pinched down tube. Also modified exhaust and chip on the PCM. At low rpm's, she's a little boggy. But acceleration is akin to a two stroke street bike with expansion chambers, MAN! does she come alive when the rpm's start going up. I love that, so I tolerate the bogginess around town. I tried, one time, putting the stock intake back on to trouble shoot. Couldn't stand it, totally fell on it's face power wise. Yeah, low end was good. But the acceleration sucked ass. I ended up throwing the entire stock intake in the round-open-top-file.

    On our bikes, there are no intake kits which replace the tube which runs up to the internal air box (that I am aware of in any event). Like the ones I put on my bike, they just get rid of that little teeny hole in the back side of the air box, which is forced to breathe in hot air from between the cylinders. By sticking the filters out in the breeze, they are now breathing air the same temperature as you feel. Colder air increases power output, since there are more air molecules in a cubic foot of cold air than warm. But, you need to get more fuel in there to compensate for that. Our cars/trucks do that automatically, as they have an intake air temperature sensor, which the computer reads and uses for the fuel trims. Our bikes don't have this feature.

    I've had three different intakes on my bike in the 11 years I've owned it. All utilized the factory back plate to mount them, and I have plugged the hole in the back to prevent unfiltered air from getting through. For most of that time I used them with the stock exhaust. I've never felt that I lost any power with air intake changes. I could still spin up the back tire with ease, even when already moving. Just like I could when the bike was totally stock.

    Exhaust changes are another matter. The stock exhaust has the SET valve, which maximizes low end torque. When you replace the exhaust with one without the SET, you're going to lose some low end power, especially if going 2-into-1. Yes, you can add a fuel programmer and minimize he loss, but it will still be there. I have a 2-into-1 on mine, and am totally happy with the way the bike performs. If I lost a little low end power, it's something I haven't noticed or missed.

    It's been said on here numerous times: The changes from intake and exhaust are relatively small and you will not notice them seat-of-the-pants. Pick the intake and exhaust you want, and ride the beast.

    Last edited by cbxer55; 02-14-2017 at 12:31 PM.
    SILVER 2006 M109R. Corbin Smuggler, Low & Mean chrome chin scoop and Reeper front fender, Mean Cycles T-Rex speedo trim, Cobra Tri-Pro exhaust, LA Choppers xXx Big Air intakes, D2Moto tail light, Kuryakin clear signals, Yana Shiki One Inch Drop Risers, BreakAway Cruise Control, Suzuki Full Cut Gel Seat, JDA Chrome Fork Caps.


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    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Our cars/trucks do that automatically, as they have an intake air temperature sensor, which the computer reads and uses for the fuel trims. Our bikes don't have this feature.
    Yeah, it does. It's called the IAT sensor. Intake Air Temperature.

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRod View Post
    Yeah, it does. It's called the IAT sensor. Intake Air Temperature.
    Well, okay then. I didn't know our bike had one of them. Makes sense though. Hard to imagine a good fuel injected vehicle that doesn't.
    SILVER 2006 M109R. Corbin Smuggler, Low & Mean chrome chin scoop and Reeper front fender, Mean Cycles T-Rex speedo trim, Cobra Tri-Pro exhaust, LA Choppers xXx Big Air intakes, D2Moto tail light, Kuryakin clear signals, Yana Shiki One Inch Drop Risers, BreakAway Cruise Control, Suzuki Full Cut Gel Seat, JDA Chrome Fork Caps.


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    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Well, okay then. I didn't know our bike had one of them. Makes sense though. Hard to imagine a good fuel injected vehicle that doesn't.
    Yeah. An FI system has a minimum set of sensors it needs to operate well. Air temp is pretty important.

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