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M109 Oil and filter change - per M109 service manual

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oil change
144K views 60 replies 34 participants last post by  UVATom 
#1 ·
I completeted first oil change per M109 service manual. Attached are oil change instrucitons per M109 manual, and M109 maintenance chart. From now on, I will never pay dealer $100 to change oil on my bike...

Engine Oil:
Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or equivalent engine oil. Use of API SF/SG or SH/SJ with JASO MA.

Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil.

Oil Filter: per suzuki, I used OEM filter sold by DLP: http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8482&str=290


 
#2 · (Edited)
Oil changes are very easy to do yourself and cost way less than 100 bucks to do yourself. A couple of things to look out for when changing oil on this bike.

1) Be very careful with the drain plugs (there are 2 at the oil pan) they tend to strip very easy if you muscle them or cross thread them.

2) the Suzuki filter is a good filter as is the K&N or Amsoil filters. (Change it every oil change, cheap enough and gets out most of the oil except for some that you can not drain without a total motor tear down)

3) do some research and see which oil you would like to use. There are different feelings on oil weights and type. All good info. Just search "oil" and read away.

4) 15/3 oil level check is the way to go after the oil change. Takes time but is accurate.

5) I personally change the Final Drive fluid every oil change. It is not at all required but it takes about 5 mins to do and cost next to nothing to do as well.

6) save all receipts for the oil and filters you buy to show that you are taking care of the bike properly. They (Suzuki) can not void your warranty for doing your own oil changes. Although they will always try and bail out on any claim.
 
#4 ·
15/3 is when checking oil level. Run the bike for 15 mins, then let sit for 3. THEN check oil level (with the bike being level) If you put too much in too much oil, your left air filter will let you know. Not a good way to find out you over filled it.

The dumb question is the question not asked
 
#8 ·
Got the oil at Walmart , Montreal , one liter bottles
" API SG,SH/CF JASO MA "
Mobil 1 V-Twin motorcycle oil 20w50 4 cycle
Synthetic.
the additive seem to match don't they ?
for warmer summer riding I will try this one
a 2 day ride coming up , in the next 2 weeks
I will see if it is acting up....
 
#11 · (Edited)
:bigthumbsup: Thanks Dave , I'll try this kind this time
at $ 13.27 a liter , we are far from the $6.00 price our
american brothers are talking about in another thread
the dollar almost at par and we still get robbed.
At least it is less than the $17.00 /liter
asked for at the Suzuki dealer.

Paid $14.00 + tax for filter , Sarmen 4 says they are
$ 6.00 in California , biking in Canada is a luxury as
oppposed to a hobby in the states.

While I'm at it $18.00 + tax for a quart of Amsoil synthetic gear oil .

Doing the job myself will cost me around $80.00 for oil change and diff oil change
maybe I should get a few filters shipped from states , even if it comes even
at least I will not encourage exageration...
 
#12 ·
I completeted first oil change per M109 service manual. Attached are oil change instrucitons per M109 manual, and M109 maintenance chart. From now on, I will never pay dealer $100 to change oil on my bike...

Engine Oil:
Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or equivalent engine oil. Use of API SF/SG or SH/SJ with JASO MA.

Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 10W-40 engine oil.

Oil Filter: per suzuki, I used OEM filter sold by DLP: http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8482&str=290


This is all in the owners manaual dude!!! But cool that you work on your own bike. Don't really trust anyone to do it right anyway. Plan on doing my own work also.
 
#14 ·
I run the 15/50 Mobil 1 synthetic with a dash of Lucas. I'm up around 45,000 and have not touched my bike. I also run the Mobil gear oil in the hub.

When you change out the dyno oil I would advice you change out your first oil change early to flush out the dyno oil. Hub and motor. The dyno oil is nothing to mess with.

I also change out my oil at round 4,000. After that it starts to get clacky.
Now that i'm up on miles I just use the Lucas to add to the oil before a change.

Do not push this bike when its new and not seated.

I didn't feel a difference in this bike till I was up over 25,000. Now at over 40,000 she's smooth as silk. No 2 gear bag. The trans take just as long to brake in as the motor. She's a beast and should be treated as such.

Good luck with your new bike.
 
#15 ·
I didn't feel a difference in this bike till I was up over 25,000. Now at over 40,000 she's smooth as silk. No 2 gear bag. The trans take just as long to brake in as the motor. She's a beast and should be treated as such.

Good luck with your new bike.
This is good to hear. I am about to turn 25,000 this week, and I must say, it seems to be running and shifting smoother. I have been thinking about switching to 20/50 at my next oil change.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I run with 15/50. Its good for all seasons being here in New England. I read some good things about zink and what it does so i run with the 15/50 because it has it in it. :bigthumbsup:
 
#19 ·
I use a full four quarts of Suzuki 20W-50 every 3000 miles. Never once had a problem. Don't have the puke problem either. And if I ever do, it'll end up in a bottle under the left engine side cover, that's where the hoses are routed to. As of yet, never had a drop of oil in it. I just put in four quarts and don't bother checking it the entire 3000 miles.
 
#20 ·
My bike is weird!!!



Let me say something about this oil change TRICK (because it is a trick, at least for me)!

When I do mine, I flush the old oil and after drained I screw the plugs back on and always have to add 3 quarts first and idle the bike 15 minutes, turn it off and wait 3 minutes check oil level and add another 200 ml to ensure the level is full. If I ever do more oil than this, is gonna puke 100% of the times. My friend says he uses an entire jog of oil and he never has that issue, why? I just don't know! He has same bike as me, but he later told me he removes a couple more bolts (tiny on the sides) and he starts the bike for a few seconds to flush as much oil as he can. I don't know if this is a good idea but when he added this to his METHOD I understood the why he can pour that much oil in his bike without puking.

Now I always use MOBIL 1 Synthetic 10-40, It runs really smooth, shifts really smooth and never had a problem, I did try a couple of brands before and I could feel the difference, so MOBIL is my choice. I use the same (5-40) on my old reliable 2000 Tahoe and 225K miles and going strong.

So everytime that oil change comes into the forum, is interesting to see how many different ways of doing it exhist and it goes there to say that is not so easy when it comes down to avoid puking, at least for me.

But sure, I will always do mine and save the trip to the STEALER!!!
 
#21 ·
Don't know why the bikes differ so much. I drain mine fully, let it sit for an hour or so on the stand, then hold it vertical, and using a long mirror, watch it until it stops. Then on the stand and more comes out. Remove filter and get all that oil out. Put four quarts in, mine never even shows overfull on the dipstick. Maxed out, yeah. But that's the way I like it, maxed out. I run all my vehicles with the oil level as high as I can get it, including automatic transmissions, power steering pumps and brake reservoirs.

All you can do is what works for you. Evidently I have been lucky with my bike. It takes four quarts and does not spit back one drop. I'm thinking of trying 10W-40 next time, just to see if the bikes mileage goes up. Only getting around 30 mpg, but that is riding it pretty hard all the time, and mostly in city/town.
 
#23 ·
Just stick in and out you do not have to screw in, Pedro I just put in 3.75 and close it up. It won't matter as 1500 miles you'll have to add more.

 
#24 ·
20w40??

Here is something for you to ponder. I used to work in the HD parts industry and did a little research on syn oil when I wanted to change mine over. I spoke with an engineer from Shell (Rotella T) and asked him about the viscosity changeover. He replied get the lowest first number you can get. He said that Shell was currently developing a 0w40 oil for the HD industry. The reasoning is this, the first number is the oil's thickness when cold i.e. cold start up. This is important in all engines as this is when most of your engine wear will occur, not when it's warm. I have run Rotella T 5w40 in my bike for the past two seasons with no issues based on the engineer's opinion. Auto manufactures have even lowered their first numbers over the years. It used to always be 10w30, 10w40 etc. and it's now 5w20, 5w30 etc.

So, IMHO 20w40 is not a good weight to run and is not a recomended Suzuki weight and could easily be a reason to deny warranty.

Ron
 
#35 · (Edited)
Here is something for you to ponder. I used to work in the HD parts industry and did a little research on syn oil when I wanted to change mine over. I spoke with an engineer from Shell (Rotella T) and asked him about the viscosity changeover. He replied get the lowest first number you can get. He said that Shell was currently developing a 0w40 oil for the HD industry. The reasoning is this, the first number is the oil's thickness when cold i.e. cold start up. This is important in all engines as this is when most of your engine wear will occur, not when it's warm. I have run Rotella T 5w40 in my bike for the past two seasons with no issues based on the engineer's opinion. Auto manufactures have even lowered their first numbers over the years. It used to always be 10w30, 10w40 etc. and it's now 5w20, 5w30 etc.

So, IMHO 20w40 is not a good weight to run and is not a recomended Suzuki weight and could easily be a reason to deny warranty.

Ron
Incorrect, 20W-50 is in the owners manual. Ever bother to read it? My dealer stocks more 20W-50 than 10W-40, and that is the Suzuki oil.
Maybe the later models don't show that weight in the manual, but my 2006 manual has it in there along with the temperature variation it can handle.
I've used nothing but 20W-50 in my 98 Ford Ranger. It is 16 years old, 150,000 on the V-6 and still going strong, and I beat it like a red-headed stepchild. I'll never use anything but 20W-50 in that truck.
Switching my Lightning from 5W-20 to 10W-40 next oil change. I do not like pouring colored water in my motors.
 
#30 ·
I'm sorry about 1/4 qt. Misjudge my oz's
 
#32 ·
Yep even some puking.
 
#36 ·
This is the "for what it's worth" section...my dealer recommended 20W50 for the summer weather and 10W40 for the fall through spring weather. This is New England, not north of the border or deep south. I trusted their word.
 
#37 ·
Also for what it's worth. The cold temperature for 20W-50 is well below freezing. Think I saw -20 or further in an owners manual once. So unless it gets that damn cold, 20W-50 ain't hurting a thing. Until I bought my 2004 Ford Lightning, I've never used anything but 20W-50 in every vehicle I've owned since 1978. Never had an oil related failure. Maybe the vehicles got worse gas mileage, don't care. I've never run a mileage calculation on any of my vehicles, just what I can do in my head off-the-cuff. There are Lightning owners running heavier oil than the recommended 5W-20, and I'll soon be one of them.
 
#38 ·
I am changing my oil for the first time. I live in TX and am thinking of still going with 10W40 Mobil 1 for motorcycles. I noticed the 20W50 (Which is what I really want to use) does not have all the ratings as listed in the manual. To be safe while I am still under warranty, I will just use 10w40. So the bike will have 500 miles on it when I change the oil and the filter. Any gotcha's I need to worry about? Using the K&N filter btw. It looks to have a socket on the filter to aid in removal. Is there enough clearance to do this or should I get a small filter wrench?

Lastly, I am going to change the rear drive fluid as well. Will use Mobil 1 75/90 there. On my VTX we used to add Moly 60 paste to the rear fluid to help with lubrication. Does anyone do that here? Seemed the final drive on the VTX worked much better when adding a little of this to the rear drive fluid.

Thanks,
Mike
 
#39 ·
The way the oil filter sits you will need a pair of channel locks, filter/strap wrench to get the OEM one off. As far as putting the K&N oil filter on youll just need a wrench. Trying to use a socket and ratchet is a PITA and really not enough room.

No need for Moly in the rear drive. Just use the Mibile 1 Synthetic 75-90 and you'll be good.

What are you looking for in the 20W-50 oil that isnt there as far as rarings go?
I have used Mobile 1 20W-50 the first2 years I had the bike and didnt have any issues.

I use Valvoline 10W-40 Dino now, bike shifts a little better with it. And is half the cost as synthetic. But everyone uses what they like as long as it meets the specs.
 
#41 ·
What are you looking for in the 20W-50 oil that isnt there as far as rarings go?
I have used Mobile 1 20W-50 the first2 years I had the bike and didnt have any issues.

I use Valvoline 10W-40 Dino now, bike shifts a little better with it. And is half the cost as synthetic. But everyone uses what they like as long as it meets the specs.
It was the JASO MA spec. 20W50 bottle doesn't have that. Here is a good chart showing the difference. Granted I have no idea what any of this means. But the JASO is definitely in the manual and I have a warranty I need to make sure I protect.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil_1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx
 
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