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Thread: Red / Blue or Both Loctite?

  1. #1
    Very Active Member SilverFox's Avatar
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    Default Red / Blue or Both Loctite?

    I know I need to use loctite when I put my bike back together, which is better?

    Thanks in advance!!

    -Jim

  2. #2
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    I use the blue if I'm using it at all on the bike. If you look at the specs for the 2, each give a different TQ hold value. My experiences in the past, when using "red" has been that if I ever had to remove it, I either had to heat the part up or ended up tearing the bolt up trying to remove it so I only use "blue" now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverFox View Post
    I know I need to use loctite when I put my bike back together, which is better?

    Thanks in advance!!

    -Jim


    Blue is for use with aluminum...The red is for all your steel products.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member draggin61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chieft View Post
    Blue is for use with aluminum...The red is for all your steel products.

    errrr, not quite!

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm 242 Blue

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...er-Red-271.htm 271 (red)
    YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary.
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    "the 109, the bike they hate to like "

  5. #5
    Very Active Member lee_grider's Avatar
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    I use the blue on most of everything. HOPE THIS HELPS

    see below :





    loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).


    Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing

  6. #6
    Very Active Member k109's Avatar
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    I only use blue
    06 silver,500 LEDS,lots of extras and the 1st ever ducks floating S cover


  7. #7
    Very Active Member purvistechie's Avatar
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    If you are ever going to take it apart, use blue.

    RED 07, De-beavered, Cycle House Stainless Steel License Plate Bracket, RAW DESIGN Horizontal Chrome LED License Plate Frame, Medium Eagle Eye LED Turn Signals, Suzuki Billit Derby Cover, Suzuki Full Cut Gel Seats, Hard Krome Sideburner Exhaust, Dynojet PCIII Fuel Management, ISO Grips and Throttle Boss.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member DEADLYCHEEZE's Avatar
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    The only time I've ever used red was to make sure my tubenut never came off again. Blue on everything else.

    MODS:Rivco Tach relocater, Chrome Factory Risers and Rims, RB Large Radius, PCIII, Custom Derby Cover, Raw Stealth Rear Signal, JT's knight rider, Standard Cut Gel Seat, OEM Crash Bars, Yana Shiki Side Mount Plate, BadAssKeys Custom Key, Kury Iso and Bar Ends!

  9. #9
    Very Active Member sumo's Avatar
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    red if you don't plan on removing it. Blue to prevent backing off or plan on removing it.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member SilverFox's Avatar
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    Default This is why I LOVE this Bike and Site...AWESOME!!!!!

    Thanks Guy's for the help... Ya'll all are AWESOME and I am so DAMN PROUD to be a member on the site...
    It doesn't matter what question you have here, you will get a correct answer!!!!

  11. #11
    Very Active Member dre319's Avatar
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    Red is for permanent things. Blue can be broken loose when you NEED it to.

    The object of war is not to die for your country, but to make the other bastard die for his.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member mindpuddlez's Avatar
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    yep Blue. I spoke with the Loctite guys at their booth during OTC in Houston.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member draggin61's Avatar
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    Some more good info here:

    http://henkelontheroad.henkelna.com/LT-6540_AN_RemovableReliable_SS_v11_Final_Links.pdf


    from the above brochure:

    • Low- & medium-strength formulas disassemble using hand tools
    • High-strength red formula disassembles using heat and hand tools



    Remember, when using threadlockers, make sure you clean the fastener (both parts) with a high quality solvent and dry it so there is no residue. Oil can diminish the reliability of the curing process.
    YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary.
    Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
    Benjamin Franklin, Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
    "the 109, the bike they hate to like "

  14. #14
    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by draggin61 View Post
    Some more good info here:

    http://henkelontheroad.henkelna.com/LT-6540_AN_RemovableReliable_SS_v11_Final_Links.pdf


    from the above brochure:

    • Low- & medium-strength formulas disassemble using hand tools
    • High-strength red formula disassembles using heat and hand tools



    Remember, when using threadlockers, make sure you clean the fastener (both parts) with a high quality solvent and dry it so there is no residue. Oil can diminish the reliability of the curing process.
    And, thread lockers cure better/faster/stronger in the presence of iron ions. So, if you're putting together non-steel parts and you want the best lock possible, you will get a can of Loctite curing spray. Just a spritz of it on the male thread before assembly and it provides those ions for better cure/strength. It's not absolutely required even with non-steel parts. It just improves it.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member lostrider's Avatar
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    I use blue but there is a middle strength too. The important thing to remember on this bike is DO NOT use any Loc-tite on a bolt that goes into any plastic parts on the bike. If you do the plastic will fall apart. The loc-tite actually destroys the plastic and causes it to fall apart. As for red, I live by the old mechanics saying, if you use red, your dead. Meaning, that bolt/nut is in there for good.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member TRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostrider View Post
    I use blue but there is a middle strength too. The important thing to remember on this bike is DO NOT use any Loc-tite on a bolt that goes into any plastic parts on the bike. If you do the plastic will fall apart. The loc-tite actually destroys the plastic and causes it to fall apart. As for red, I live by the old mechanics saying, if you use red, your dead. Meaning, that bolt/nut is in there for good.
    Red is easily removable with heat. About 350° F and it comes right apart.

    I agree on plastic with the exception that not all plastics are affected. However, ABS (which is what the bodywork on the 109 is made from) is severely affected by loctite. Other plastics (like HDPE and others), are not affected.

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