Are you sure you need to replace the rears? These mounts are a lot stiffer rubber and are actually the same ones that you use to replace the fronts.Originally Posted by IchariuS
Are you sure you need to replace the rears? These mounts are a lot stiffer rubber and are actually the same ones that you use to replace the fronts.
"politically incorrect and proud of it . . . "
not really,just wanting to know if this was figured out.
anyhow, I just checked my fronts and they are half or even 3/4 crushed... might as well do it soon althought the vibration I feel overall is not game killer for me.
2.25"Bones/2"Risers/StebelHorn/TitaniumFeelers/EngineGuards/StrdCutGel eat/K&NAir&OilFilters/JoeFloridaLED/LEDVoltimeter/GIPRO/USBdoc/Debeveared/FI2000/o2Sensor'sEliminator/KuryBlkGrips/PushPinMod /MotorMounts/Duck'sCovers
I'm struggling a little with understanding this mod....
The pictures don't show where exactly the motor mounts are located.
And the instructions don't seem to differentiate between left and right sides of the bike.
So as I understand it, you need to remove a section of the frame on both sides of the bike by unscrewing 6 bolts?
Or, are you removing the 6 frame bolts in order to allow the engine to be raised, and thus take the weight off of the engine mounts?
I assume that you remove the 6 bolts on both sides before removing the engine mounts?
There's a section of the frame on the right side (brake pedal side) that comes off with the removal of 6 bolts. This allows access to remove the mount on that side. On the left side (shifter side) its put together a little differently (easier). If you look on the left side (shifter side) of the bike underneath the starter at the front of the engine you can see the mounts. #35 in this picture.
Here's a picture of the frame. You can see all six bolts in this picture.
on the crankcase diagram the 2 mount (out of 6 that are in the middle of the frame are also #35- does this means both of this are softer too and need to be changed eventually?
2.25"Bones/2"Risers/StebelHorn/TitaniumFeelers/EngineGuards/StrdCutGel eat/K&NAir&OilFilters/JoeFloridaLED/LEDVoltimeter/GIPRO/USBdoc/Debeveared/FI2000/o2Sensor'sEliminator/KuryBlkGrips/PushPinMod /MotorMounts/Duck'sCovers
Ok, I think I'm getting it. Your parts diagram & frame photo help.
The diagram suggests that the 3 long bolts (labelled #37 & 38) pass thru the frame, and thru the rubber mounts, in order to support the engine.
You need a jack to take the weight of the engine off the frame, as well as the front #37 bolt (if you're only replacing the two front rubber engine mounts). That lets you slide the bolt out.
Removing the bottom section of frame on both left and right sides of the bike gives you access to the engine mounts to slide them out.
Does that sound about right?
Last edited by asviewedfrommars; 07-06-2012 at 03:03 AM.
Close. The frame only comes apart on the right side for access to the mount on that side. On the left side the long bolt slides through a removable piece that is bolted to the footpeg bracket through the frame. It makes sense when you get into it.Ok, I think I'm getting it. Your parts diagram & frame photo help.
The diagram suggests that the 3 long bolts (labelled #37 & 3pass thru the frame, and thru the rubber mounts, in order to support the engine.
You need a jack to take the weight of the engine off the frame, as well as the front #37 bolt (if you're only replacing the two front rubber engine mounts). That lets you slide the bolt out.
Removing the bottom section of frame on both left and right sides of the bike gives you access to the engine mounts to slide them out.
Does that sound about right?
Thanks very much for clarifying.
I've ordered two rubber mounts.
WOW!!! I was supprised to see just how bad my front engine mount bushings were at 16700 miles... Since my motor is out of my bike being rebuilt it was easy to view the front and rear.. The rear had very little wear, where as the front was really worn down and on one side really not sure if it was the top or bottom.. I was wondering if Suzuki made the bushings out of two different rubbers ( front being soft - Rear being hard )? When I asked the parts guy at the dealer he made a comment about that, of course I said WTF and ordered the harder bushings for the front based on what I have read on here.. THANKS to EVERYONE for all of your input.. it really makes it easy to make a decision. cant wait to get my 9 back on the road so I can feel the difference in the ride.....
You can do it
I did my own and I promise you can handle it if you have the right tools and you take your time. Best of luck to you.
V
(IF) America will Bless God
God (WILL)Bless America
Just changed all four of mine. The rear two were a piece of cake while the front was a lot more involved. On my 37,000 mile 2007 the front were flat but the rears looked fine.
Last edited by tonymontanna1983; 08-21-2012 at 08:41 AM.
There are six. Jus sayin.
Last edited by antmor69; 07-17-2012 at 12:54 AM.
Sounds like a good winter project when we cant ride up here.
Are we replacing with after market or factory mounts?
I don't know of any aftermarket ones.Sounds like a good winter project when we cant ride up here.
Are we replacing with after market or factory mounts
There are no aftermarket mounts that I have ever heard or seen.
Has anyone done this without a bike jack? I plan on doing an oil change, push pin mod and front bushings within the next week or so.
I have a bike jack, but did not use it. I used a small floor jack. You will need some sort of jack. The bike jack was too big and got in the way.
Right on! Thanks! My idea was to do it on the side stand and use a floor jack to support the motor. I plan on making a video to help others out in the future.
There are six. Jus sayin.
Huh? Let me see..1....2......3......4.....................5..6 ? Aaaahhhhhhhhhhh nooooooooooo! Ok, I changed four out of six. D'oh!
Guess I'm ordering two more. I'm so stupid
Last edited by tonymontanna1983; 07-21-2012 at 07:14 AM.
Anybody have any new mounts that they haven't yet installed? I'm thinking about getting the measurements and getting some polyurethane ones.
Yeah i'm doing the same thing. I'm almost done with the mold. I just went and pull one of the mounts and measured the mounting hole its self then added .005
Polyurethane would be good. Are you thinking of getting a few made and selling them to members of this forum?
I sure am! So if anyone still has they're old worn out mounts don't throw them away. I'll take them.
Last edited by Scorp; 08-03-2012 at 07:50 PM.
Please keep us updated but if you are to use a set as a template to make polyurethane ones shouldn't you use new ones that haven't been damaged or compressed? Not an expert here - just asking. :-)
I'm using the old ones for the the metal spacer and washer. Everything else will be new and polyurethane.
Question ? ...
Given the wearing problem ... wouldn't these mount bushings be better made from metal?
Just asking ... please forgive my ignorance of this.
this are cushions to lessen the vibration between the motor and the frame, I don't think metal will work because of this reason, they will intensify the vibration and send it right to the handlebars.
But that's my lucky guess, not to mechanically inclined either
2.25"Bones/2"Risers/StebelHorn/TitaniumFeelers/EngineGuards/StrdCutGel eat/K&NAir&OilFilters/JoeFloridaLED/LEDVoltimeter/GIPRO/USBdoc/Debeveared/FI2000/o2Sensor'sEliminator/KuryBlkGrips/PushPinMod /MotorMounts/Duck'sCovers
There are a lot of posts here. Is there a general agreement on how or or miles travelled an M109 would be to need new mounts. Mine is an 07 with 15,000 kms (9,000 miles) approx.
Thanks
Meant to write 'how old'
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