hakzo6
04-18-2007, 10:40 AM
Before you get started make sure everything is working correctly.
Test the running lights, brake light and directionals.
NOTE: The black/white wire is the ground side (-) for each turn signal.
It's actually the ground for the bikes electrical system.
I'd get a few extra feet of wire too. You might need it when mounting the load resistors.
Here's how you do it if you want to use the taillight as an all in one unit with directionals. If you're using this taillight as a running light/brake light only, just do step #1.
1. Plug in the NEW taillight assy.
The running lights and the brake light should work. Go ahead and test them.
2. Connect the directional inputs.
There should be 2 yellow wires left on the NEW taillight assy.
These are the left and right turn signal inputs.
Connect one of the yellow wires to the solid black wire that was cut when you removed the factory turn signals.
Connect the other yellow wire to the green wire you cut from the other factory turn signal.
Don't do anything with the 2 black/white wires yet. The turn signals will work without the original turn signal
grounds connected because the LEDS have another ground contact thru the plug you connected in step # 1.
3. Check the running lights/brake light/turn signals.
Make sure everything still works and the turn signals are wired correctly.
The turn signals will blink very fast. That's OK, (The load resistor will solve that problem).
Just make sure everything works and you have the right and left turn signals wired correctly.
If the turn signals are working backwards then swap the green wire and black wire.
4. Connect the load resistors.
Connect one end of the load resistor to the green wire and the other end of the load resistor to the black/white
wire. Check and make sure that turn signal still works. It should blink at the normal rate now.
If the turn signal still blinks fast check the connections on the load resistor underneath the heat shrink. The ones I got had bad solder joints. Once that side works correctly do the same thing to the other turn signal. Connect one end of the load resistor to the black wire and the other end to the remaining black/white wire.
5. Mount the load resistors.
Make sure when mounting the load resistors you find a location somewhere so the heat off the resistors won't
damage any of the bikes bodyworks.
These things get HOT !!! I purchased another set of load resistors. The kind that were made for mounting and
mounted them to the rear fender underneath the chrome rail. The metal fender acts like a huge heat sink for the
resistors and helps dissipate the heat. The cost was about $5/pair. If you decide to go this route just match the
wattage and resistance valves to the original load resistors.
Testing the resistors for heat: Start one directional and feel the resistor as it heats up so you can see for yourselfwhat I'm talking about. They start to warm up pretty good after about 10-15 seconds.
Caution: They get HOT.
Congrads, You're done! :bigthumbsup:
Test the running lights, brake light and directionals.
NOTE: The black/white wire is the ground side (-) for each turn signal.
It's actually the ground for the bikes electrical system.
I'd get a few extra feet of wire too. You might need it when mounting the load resistors.
Here's how you do it if you want to use the taillight as an all in one unit with directionals. If you're using this taillight as a running light/brake light only, just do step #1.
1. Plug in the NEW taillight assy.
The running lights and the brake light should work. Go ahead and test them.
2. Connect the directional inputs.
There should be 2 yellow wires left on the NEW taillight assy.
These are the left and right turn signal inputs.
Connect one of the yellow wires to the solid black wire that was cut when you removed the factory turn signals.
Connect the other yellow wire to the green wire you cut from the other factory turn signal.
Don't do anything with the 2 black/white wires yet. The turn signals will work without the original turn signal
grounds connected because the LEDS have another ground contact thru the plug you connected in step # 1.
3. Check the running lights/brake light/turn signals.
Make sure everything still works and the turn signals are wired correctly.
The turn signals will blink very fast. That's OK, (The load resistor will solve that problem).
Just make sure everything works and you have the right and left turn signals wired correctly.
If the turn signals are working backwards then swap the green wire and black wire.
4. Connect the load resistors.
Connect one end of the load resistor to the green wire and the other end of the load resistor to the black/white
wire. Check and make sure that turn signal still works. It should blink at the normal rate now.
If the turn signal still blinks fast check the connections on the load resistor underneath the heat shrink. The ones I got had bad solder joints. Once that side works correctly do the same thing to the other turn signal. Connect one end of the load resistor to the black wire and the other end to the remaining black/white wire.
5. Mount the load resistors.
Make sure when mounting the load resistors you find a location somewhere so the heat off the resistors won't
damage any of the bikes bodyworks.
These things get HOT !!! I purchased another set of load resistors. The kind that were made for mounting and
mounted them to the rear fender underneath the chrome rail. The metal fender acts like a huge heat sink for the
resistors and helps dissipate the heat. The cost was about $5/pair. If you decide to go this route just match the
wattage and resistance valves to the original load resistors.
Testing the resistors for heat: Start one directional and feel the resistor as it heats up so you can see for yourselfwhat I'm talking about. They start to warm up pretty good after about 10-15 seconds.
Caution: They get HOT.
Congrads, You're done! :bigthumbsup: