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Lamonster
09-29-2006, 05:55 PM
These pictures are from the prototype BigAir and the ones you guys have will be a little different and a lot lighter but you'll get the general idea from these instructions. :doorag:

1. Remove your seat and side covers so that you can get the tank off. You could leave the side covers on but it's just a lot easier with them off.

2. Remove the one bolt that holds the dash down and slide it forward off of the pins and move it out of the way so you can pop the tank off.

3. Remove the rear tank bolt (12mm) and lift the back of the tank up high enough to disconnect the fuel gage connector and the fuel line.
This is where it would be nice to have a helping hand to hold the tank up while you unplug the brown connector and the quick coupler for the fuel. The brown connector came off real easy but the fuel connector was a real pain for me. :realmad:
You need to push on the two blue tabs on the connector and then pull back. You're going to loose a little fuel so put a rag down and it's a good idea to have a tank that it pretty low on fuel before you try this. That tank can get pretty heavy. ::)
Now that you have those off just slide the tank back and lift it off of the rubber stops and set it out of the way somewhere.

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20060517/2/9/0/290b38bd37beddf34752a8aa0de1e7970

4. Remove the airbox on both sides of the bike. There are two bolts that hold these on and a pin so once you get those bolts loose you can pull it out a bit and pull off the crankcase breather on the back side. Now you can take off the boot from the main air box.

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20060410/0/d/e/0ded14c381cd9e0048457ffda2a793bd0
http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060410/b/d/6/bd6a409cb988bc567c5d50acc16cf40c0

5. Now that you have both air box's off go ahead and remove the front chrome cover by removing the screws that hold the cover at the back of the air box plate.

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060410/3/4/4/34471d6af061a40cf2997b98d6da36900

6. Remove the screws that hold the stock air filter and remove filter.

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060410/b/1/2/b1208d1a55fe9f730df9902f74c686c80
http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20060410/a/9/f/a9ffb23203fd10df8b25aecca305c9770

7. I used some weather stripping on my air box to provide a seal but it would most likely seal fine without it or you could put a light coat of silicone on the BigAir where it is milled out. Mine wasn't milled so there was no good way for me to know where to put the seal.

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060929/2/5/e/25e075d105231869c5ca63cccb4093690_large.jpg

8. Next thing you want to do is place the small round plate that came with the BigAir kit on something soft and have it sitting so you can lineup the two bolt holes in the little round plate with the two bolt holes in the big plate. Install the air filter on the small plate and set the big backing plate on top of the air cleaner and line up the mounting holes and secure big backing plate to small round plate.

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060929/1/e/2/1e2026f34b4c102bf60af7b2a00802f80_large.jpg
http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060929/8/9/b/89b7801dc54554e91157e171eac70c5a0_large.jpg

9. Install stock plastic backing plate to BigAir plate using bolts that are provided. (Loctight is recommended on all bolts).

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060929/1/b/8/1b8856e6c582697471c6a58f923e64270_large.jpg

10. Reinstall air boxes, fuel tank, side panels and seat. Make sure all bolts and connections are tight.

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20060929/c/b/7/cb70f0a41c783e14c0d43ce9403abe8e0_large.jpg

It's a good idea to have a Power Commander and a custom map to go with this mod to get maximum performance.

Power Commander can be purchased through Direct Line Parts HERE (http://directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=6049&str=290)

Here's my current map.

Cobra Speedsters
BigAir
JSD3
http://www.m109riders.com/pc109maps/lamonster_bigair_speedster.djm

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/4720/12bigairdyno-med.jpg (http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/4720/12bigairdyno.jpg)

Medic1210
12-04-2006, 08:40 AM
Hey Lamont, as far as removing the tank, is there anything other than the rear screw that actually holds the tank on? I didn't pay much attention to mine when I removed it, but I just assumed that the little lip that sticks out at the front slid under something to secure the front end. It wasn't until I re-installed the tank that I realized there was nothing up front that held that little tab. Is this how every 109 is designed? I figured there was more than just those rubber things on the frame holding the tank in place. If that tab doesn't slide under something, why do we slide the tank back before lifting it off the frame? I guess I just always assumed that we were sliding it back to get that tab out from whatever was holding it. :dontknow:

Delmustator
12-04-2006, 08:51 AM
Watchout for the side plastic panels near the bottom of the tank. They have tabs that fit to the tank and if your not careful, it can scratch your paint.

Medic1210
12-04-2006, 08:55 AM
Watchout for the side plastic panels near the bottom of the tank. They have tabs that fit to the tank and if your not careful, it can scratch your paint.


Yeah, I noticed that too. Maybe those are why we slide the tank back to remove, and forward to reinstall. :dontknow:

wireman
07-26-2009, 09:46 PM
Oh my god, that is ugly!!:-[

BobbyMac
07-26-2009, 09:55 PM
:oldpost:

This post is almost 3 years old and that part was a prototype. Here is what the finished product looks like:

http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/pics3/CYC-M!09BIGAIRCHROME.jpg