The #1 mod you can do to this bike....motor mount how to...

[BobbyMac]

I have been PM'd to death about the front motor mounts which I don't mind but figured this would be more helpful.

For those that have not done this mod......DO IT! It has made my bike so much more enjoyable to ride. It is much smoother....the 3500rpm vibration is still there but you don't feel it much at all. Here are what some others have said about the mod:


I feel the engine real good now, and the whole being of the bike. LOL It feels and reacts so much tighter with the hard mounts up front.


:bigthumbsup: I actually thought mine felt a bit smoother when I got it all finished with the new mounts.



Anyway, it runs great, and seems much smoother. Maybe it's in my head, but it really feels different to me. It even seems to shift better:dontknow:.
The best $40 I've spent lately.


Yes they do feel better and all the torque lost slopping around in the soft mounts, LOL, Feels Like a new 9..............


All I can say is WOW,, what a difference.. All the heavy vibration that I took as normal in now gone... This is a must do mod in my opinion..:bigthumbsup:


:agree:After another day of riding today, I can really tell the difference in vibration felt in the handlebars. I remember the first time I revved up this bike to 3500-4000 rpm in neutral when I first bought it, the vibration was there, not too bad, but there. Now I can't feel it at all. The front motor mounts were too soft from the get go. Maybe Suzuki wanted more "character" to compete with HD. I'll take smoothness thank you.
Oh, good idea on the dish soap to ease installation, WD-40 didn't work.


I noticed zero vibration at my grips , my mirrors hardly vibrate and its alot smoother then when it was new !


I agree with Bobby I had 18000 miles didnt really know i needed them ! great improvement


Thanks again Chad !

Rode about 50 miles today and man it really is a lot smoother on the highway !


Here is what a new one looks like:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_FrontMotorMounts003.jpg


Here is what your front ones probably look like.....WORN OUT!

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_FrontMotorMounts002.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/lucky06_photos/IMG00187-20110528-1432.jpg


With that said, on with the HOW TO...........

[BobbyMac]

First of all you will need two of the harder rear motor mounts. They are part #11652-10G30
I ordered mine from here and they were about $14 dollars each. That was the cheapest I could find and these folks gave great service:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/

You will also need two jacks....motorcycle and a one like this to lift/support the motor:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41umRX1RH-L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Now on to the stuff you must take off. You have to take all the radiator cowling stuff off. So the tank comes back and I took off the side covers as well:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto001.jpg

Next you have to remove both of the footpeg brackets(2 bolts on each side) and the brake pedal. I didn't remove my shifter.....just sort of left it dangling but I did support it:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto002.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto009.jpg

To remove the brake pedal, you have to remove this bolt:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto003.jpg


The spring comes off as well. When you take the pedal off, there is a rubber O-ring that you don't need to lose. It probably will come off, just remember where it goes and put a thin coat of grease on it when you reinstall. Grease the brake lever shaft, too.


Remove this as well. It more of less just presses down into it's holder. There is a spring which you have to take off as well:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto004.jpg

Next you need to remove the cover in front of the rear master cylinder....two bolts:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto005.jpg


Ok....now you need to remove the rear brake fluid reservoir, so you can get at the bolts for the frame. I took the whole bracket off to make more room. I also disconnected my horn because I was pulling the radiator forward and the horn was holding it back:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto006.jpg



Now.....I would take the bolts out of the radiator.....two at the top and one at the bottom. This will allow it to move forward and give you room to get behind it. This is what the right side of the bike will be looking like. This is CBR1000's pic. It also shows the two bolts in the frame out......don't do that YET!
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f326/edheiser/002-6.jpg


Now get your one ton jack and support the motor.....we're getting to the good part. No pics of this but it has to go under the front part behind the oil filter.


Take out the long bolt between the front mounts, and the spacer.

Now the section of frame can be removed with 6 bolts. Slide out the old mounts (bushings), use dish soap or silicone grease (not oil, it degrades the rubber), and slide in the new ones with the spacer between them. These are the bolts that come out to remove the frame section.....there are two under the exhaust, two right behind the rear brake reservoir, and two on the shifter side right behind the radiator. In my picture, you can only see one of the bolts behind the brake reservoir....look at CBR1000s pic above to see both:
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto007.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto006.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj146/BobbyMac109/Shop%20stuff%20and%20mods/tn_MMhowto008.jpg


*****When you are removing these bolts, when you get down to the last bolt to come out....aka bolt 6 of 6.....it may be hard to get out. I had to screw it out all the way...all the others just pulled right out. I was worried that there was excess weight causing it to be in a bind and was expecting the worst when I pulled it out. Don't freak....the jack has got the motor. When Lucky helped a guy do his last week, he said the bolt did the same on that bike, too. So expect it.


Picture of old mount out:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f326/edheiser/005-1.jpg


The one ton jack will be a big help in lining everything up for the install. Also, if you can have an extra set of hands, I had Lucky, it will make this much easier.

Once the new ones are in, reinstall in the reverse order. I used blue loc-tite on all my stuff.

[Timbo]

Thanks Bobby, just ordered mine.

[BobbyMac]

Lucky helped me do mine and last weekend he did another guy's bike. He is planning to help GeorgiaRoller with his this week. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or Lucky06. I did this "How To" after the fact but I hope it helps you guys out.

I don't think I left anything out but use your common sense and you'll be fine....:doorag:

[The M]

Thanks so much for the DIY!

Those of us in central Florida should plan on a group motor mount installation day. Who's in? PM me if you're interested.

[m109blondie]

Very Very nice helpful write-up. If I ever decide to do this, you have helped us all out a bunch with this.

[bryan67]

Hey really nice how to. Just wondering can we all get Lucky to come and help for the spare pair of hands?? Nice job guys will keep this info for sure.
:doorag:

[Zoom]

Great job Bobby. I just ordered mine too, along with a couple other small items. Great prices but their shipping was a tad high, but at least I have them coming.

I bet they wonder why all at once everyone is ordering these bushings. :D

[rynosback]

Looks like I will add this to my winter mod list. Thanks Bobby.

[BigpapaM109]

Great write up Bobby. Mine are sitting here and it is on the "to do list". Going to do them right after the Mid Atlantic Meet as I have another bike coming in. If I get time I will try to do them this week.

[mrhp]

Great write up Bobby! Thanks for the info. Will replace mine soon. :bigthumbsup:

mrhp

[nascar4011]

Bobby, thanks a million for the pics and how too, have mine coming in mail any day..... this will help a bunch!

[Scorp]

This is the first i've heard of this. Are the stock ones to soft and if so is all the years the same way?

[EYELESS]

THANKS FOR THE WRITEUP!!!!:bigthumbsup::hot:


time to order some motor mounts

[stepink104]

This is the first i've heard of this. Are the stock ones to soft and if so is all the years the same way?
good question.........why is this to be done and is the replacement part the same as stock.

[BobbyMac]

This is the first i've heard of this. Are the stock ones to soft and if so is all the years the same way?

The front ones are made out of a softer material and wear out really quickly. Replacing it with the harder rear ones (part number listed in above post) fixes the problem. Yes, all the years are the same way.

[Royal9]

Very Nice!!! Thanx

[rockfordrider]

Not sure what I missed, what are the symptoms as I have nearly 20,000 I dont notice any vibraton between 3500 and 4, I do have a dead spot around 4200 but I think that is a map problem. mirrors never shake? so how do you determin when threy are going bad?

[BobbyMac]

Not sure what I missed, what are the symptoms as I have nearly 20,000 I dont notice any vibraton between 3500 and 4, I do have a dead spot around 4200 but I think that is a map problem. mirrors never shake? so how do you determin when threy are going bad?

You can see them. The "star" portion of the mount is pointed in so to see the one on the shifter side you have to be on the exhaust side and vice versa. Take a flash light and shine it in there and look. It is easier to see the one on the exhaust side. It might take you a minute or two to figure out where they are and what they look like, but you can see them with out taking anything off.

[Bullrider]

You can see them. The "star" portion of the mount is pointed in so to see the one on the shifter side you have to be on the exhaust side and vice versa. Take a flash light and shine it in there and look. It is easier to see the one on the exhaust side. It might take you a minute or two to figure out where they are and what they look like, but you can see them with out taking anything off.


You sir are an example of why this forum is so great!
Thank You!!

[lee_grider]

Bobby this is a really great HOW TO .

Chad and I had mine done in about 1.5 hrs but we had some stuff already off doing my new clutch !

[Royal9]

Lee_grider when you changed your clutch did you change the 6 hub springs too and if you did what and where did you get them.

[Okie9er]

Thanks a bunch Bobby, this will help alot. I just got my bike out of the shop where i asked them to check the mounts since I felt I had a knock in the engine and thought this may be the cause. The service writer said "I've never herd of such a thing", I told him it appears it's a rather common problem based on what I've seen on-line. Saying that was a mistake.... He nearly lambasted me for beleaving the crap that has happened to 3 people on the Internet. Well after picking up the bike after he had the bike for a month, I took a quick lil look and I'll be damned the front mounts are completely shot. Needless to say I have the mounts on order,(not from his shop) and after I swap them out I'm gunna march up there and shove em up his a$$. Thanks again for the info bro.
Okie9er

[Les7311]

:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

[CBR1000DUDE]

Thanks a bunch Bobby, this will help alot. I just got my bike out of the shop where i asked them to check the mounts since I felt I had a knock in the engine and thought this may be the cause. The service writer said "I've never herd of such a thing", I told him it appears it's a rather common problem based on what I've seen on-line. Saying that was a mistake.... He nearly lambasted me for beleaving the crap that has happened to 3 people on the Internet. Well after picking up the bike after he had the bike for a month, I took a quick lil look and I'll be damned the front mounts are completely shot. Needless to say I have the mounts on order,(not from his shop) and after I swap them out I'm gunna march up there and shove em up his a$$. Thanks again for the info bro.
Okie9er
This is why my bike has never been back to the dealer since 06. They ain't never heared of nuthin!
But in all fairness, mods like this won't be in their service manuals. They're improvements to what Suzuki did.
But I'm sure a highly trained Suzuki service writer :joke:knows more than people who have actually done this mod. Not!
It seems the more ignorant a person is, the more confident they are that they know everything.
Try a little dish soap lube on your old motor mounts before you insert them in his a$$:o, and tell him your learned that on this site also! That'll make a believer out of him.:D

[Zoom]

Crap, I knew this would happen. And with stuff from Japan being way behind on deliveries, I doubt the July date will hold up. I placed the order over the weekend.



An item you ordered is unfortunately on nationwide backorder through the manufacturer. It is item number 11652-10G30. As of this morning, the release date listed by Suzuki is scheduled for 7/6/11. This date is subject to change, if it does I will be sure to let you know. I apologize for the delay and look forward to shipping your order as soon as possible.

Thanks,
Ashley
Boulevard Suzuki

[crazytrain]

Crap, I knew this would happen. And with stuff from Japan being way behind on deliveries, I doubt the July date will hold up. I placed the order over the weekend.

:agree:Double CRAP ! I got the same e-mail as well >:(

[BobbyMac]

Well on the bright side, it's not an "emergency mod"....it really does make a big difference in the ride. Maybe some other sites have them in stock :dontknow:

[Snowblind]

good question.........why is this to be done and is the replacement part the same as stock.

The main reason I did mine was because the engine had moved low enough that the u-joint was rubbing inside its inner housing as seen below:

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03807Small.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03804Small.jpg

I replaced all six of the motor mounts with the harder rubber and it corrected the problem. There are a couple of ways to figure out if your mounts require replacement. The first is to check whether your engine is sitting below the frame and the second is to take a look at these two covers:

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03813Small.jpg

Good luck with your mounts guys!

[revlo3]

The main reason I did mine was because the engine had moved low enough that the u-joint was rubbing inside its inner housing as seen below:

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03807Small.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03804Small.jpg

I replaced all six of the motor mounts with the harder rubber and it corrected the problem. There are a couple of ways to figure out if your mounts require replacement. The first is to check whether your engine is sitting below the frame and the second is to take a look at these two covers:

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k427/nathankey2008/Driveshaft%20Rub/DSC03813Small.jpg

Good luck with your mounts guys!

Would the spaces be closer or not parallel?

[Snowblind]

Would the spaces be closer or not parallel?

The spaces should be a little more parallel or even in height. Sorry, should have clarified that earlier.

[Zoom]

Well on the bright side, it's not an "emergency mod"....it really does make a big difference in the ride. Maybe some other sites have them in stock :dontknow:

Bobby, do these wear on top or bottom? Maybe for an in-between fix until the new parts get here you could rotate them 180 degrees? I doubt it would make the engine any smoother but it might take out the sag. The location of them makes me think they wear on the top.

[Snowblind]

Bobby, do these wear on top or bottom? Maybe for an in-between fix until the new parts get here you could rotate them 180 degrees? I doubt it would make the engine any smoother but it might take out the sag. The location of them makes me think they wear on the top.

Correct, the front ones wear on top! Seems putting power down rolls the engine back.

Truthfully you probably could flip them over, I dunno though if they would stay in that position.

[GeorgiaRoller]

Well I just got my front ones replaced tonight. First off I want to thank BobbyMac for thinking of me and ordering me a set of new mounts when he ordered his. Thanks Bro! I also have to thank Lucky06 for coming down to my house tonight and basically doing all the work and helping me replace mine. Thanks Dude!

Mine looked worse than I thought that they would. I have 16,000 on the bike and I took a few pictures of them in comparison to the new mounts. I also snapped a few install pics that might help some others.

I'm gonna give the bike a test ride after I get home from work tomorrow. I'm assuming that based on how my old mounts look that I'll have a much tighter/smoother ride than before.

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr261/twistedmfitty/IMG_2664.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr261/twistedmfitty/IMG_2666.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr261/twistedmfitty/IMG_2667.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr261/twistedmfitty/IMG_2668.jpg

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr261/twistedmfitty/IMG_2670.jpg

[Zoom]

It was a thought, just in case they go on prolonged back order. Thanks for letting me know. :bigthumbsup:

I got a shipping notice from Deland today so maybe some showed up. I ordered a pair of new tank cushions and it could be they decided to go ahead and ship those instead of waiting for the engine bushings.

[CBR1000DUDE]

It was a thought, just in case they go on prolonged back order. Thanks for letting me know. :bigthumbsup:

I got a shipping notice from Deland today so maybe some showed up. I ordered a pair of new tank cushions and it could be they decided to go ahead and ship those instead of waiting for the engine bushings.
I hope you wait for the new ones, just turning the old ones 180 degrees won't do much. They're just too soft from the get go. Bascially, it's like trying to hold the whole front of the engine in place with a couple of marshmallows!

[Zoom]

I hope you wait for the new ones, just turning the old ones 180 degrees won't do much. They're just too soft from the get go. Bascially, it's like trying to hold the whole front of the engine in place with a couple of marshmallows!


The only way I would do that is if I could lift the engine up a little to take pressure off them, then reach in and rotate them with something. I wouldn't go through the full removal process just to turn them. Mine actually isn't that bad yet, but you know how it is when everyone says how great something works, you have to try it too. :D

[Djfoxsr]

:agree:Just some FYI. Back in my import tuner days, we were always looking for cheap mods to help our ricers out. One of the things we did was to take our stock civic motor mounts which had a three pointed star design, and fill the gaps with windshield urathane. It took them about two days to cure all the way through, but when done they were basicly a solid rubber mount which was much stiffer and transfered into more solid shifts.

I'm not recomending anybody pull their bike completely apart and squirt some windshield caulk instead of spending $40 to do it the right way, but, if someone's is really bad and they can't get a replacement, it's an option.

[racer 50]

say bobby how many miles did you have on your boke when you replaced them? Thanks wonder if this could be done under warrenty.

[BobbyMac]

say bobby how many miles did you have on your boke when you replaced them? Thanks wonder if this could be done under warrenty.

About 18,000. I can't see Suzuki covering these under warranty, bro. They are cheapskates!

[Dragonback]

Hey blind once I saw your comment on noticing whether you need is great I went to check my bike right after and true enough they are not aligning up.. and I have notice more vibration etc from my bike... Just ordered so I'll attempt with posted how-to here. cant wait to see any difference this might make..

[Snowblind]

Hey blind once I saw your comment on noticing whether you need is great I went to check my bike right after and true enough they are not aligning up.. and I have notice more vibration etc from my bike... Just ordered so I'll attempt with posted how-to here. cant wait to see any difference this might make..

:bigthumbsup: Even if it's not in bad shape it's still a good mod to do!

[Bullrider]

Thank you BobbyMac!
I just got my bushings and installed them. Mine were as bad if not worse than the first pictures on this thread. 25,500 miles on em.
I notice a much smoother ride now!
I put the bike on a bike jack but took it down.
It seemed much easier with just a small hydraulic jack with the bike on its kickstand.

[game warden]

:cop:Thanks also BobbyMac ! from start to finish including washing the bike off and a shower for me less than 3 hours ! GREAT how to .

[game warden]

WOW just got back from a little ride to check out the improvement with the new mounts it is amazing how nice it is to ride with no shakes and gas tank not look like it ready to fly off when your lugging it down a little. I would highly recomend this to everyone to do you will not be disapointed with the finished results.:cop:

[4U2NV]

Subscribing

[Dragonback]

Just got mine (2 front) and almost ready to tackle..
waiting for front pads. and will also check hub nut so this way I have bike down for 1 whole day and take care of a few items at once...

wish me luck... :o

[CDM76]

You sir are an example of why this forum is so great!
Thank You!!

:agree:

Thanks !!!

[RicardoRodriguez]

I have a question.
If my local suzuki dealer is a lousy one. Just in case, hahahaa
How can i recognize he is really selling me the rear motor mounts?
I mean if they (rear and front) look just the same, how can i tell the dealer is not selling the front ones as they were the rear ones?

Thanks for the inputs
:dontknow:

[BobbyMac]

I have a question.
If my local suzuki dealer is a lousy one. Just in case, hahahaa
How can i recognize he is really selling me the rear motor mounts?
I mean if they (rear and front) look just the same, how can i tell the dealer is not selling the front ones as they were the rear ones?

Thanks for the inputs
:dontknow:

You can look @ the part number on the bag. Also, the front ones are squishy like a tennis ball. The harder ones are more like a baseball.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[RicardoRodriguez]

You can look @ the part number on the bag. Also, the front ones are squishy like a tennis ball. The harder ones are more like a baseball.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

Alright pal, thanks for the info.
I will order them tomorrow.
Regards

[tydaniels]

Just ordered this part. Thanks for the excellent write up.

[gottattooz]

I ordered mine today. I"ll post pics of the new vs. old when I do the swap. Thanks, Bobby, for the pictoral How-to:bigthumbsup:.

-Josh

[tax2dth]

Ive checked every place I could find and the web site www.boulevardsuzuki.com (http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com) has the best prices I could find. They are cheeper on everything I have looked up. :bigthumbsup: I have a order in now hope shipping is as good as there prices.

[BigpapaM109]

I ordered mine today. I"ll post pics of the new vs. old when I do the swap. Thanks, Bobby, for the pictoral How-to:bigthumbsup:.

-Josh
Doing mine Monday evening. I will post up as well.

[ChiWaWa]

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/4320-suzuki-2009-vz1500/assemblies/119130

Part #43 (Thanks Munster) seems all 6 are the same.... Does anyone know if this is the soft or harder mount? Think I could order 109 Rear mounts and just install them on my M90? They look very similar

[gottattooz]

You posted a link for a 1500, not an 1800. The part I ordered was #11652-10g30.

-Josh

Oh, I didn't notice you had an M90. I don't know what the differences are on the m90. It sems like the m90 has the same mounts all the way around. The m109 has softer front mounts. We are swapping in the harder rear mounts to the front om the m109.

[Screamnyellozonker]

From the pic's it looks like you might have found the smoking gun on some of our exploded drives. I am thinking I might get some delrin and machine 6 replacements and put them in before it becomes a problem. Very nice write up.
Bob

[rudeboy109]

:agree:

[crazytrain]

OMG! The Beast is Back! :DWow what a difference after installng the new mounts! :bow:Thanx to Ooink (Rob) for comming over to the house and doing the install! We also changed out spark plugs and installed my GMan battery tender. Thanx Bobby for clueing us all in on this #1 MOD, its a must do for sure!:nojoke: Was a great day here Tatter! :clap2:

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/crazytrain_02/2011-08-14_13-18-09_443-1.jpg


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/crazytrain_02/2011-08-14_13-17-37_630-1.jpg


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/crazytrain_02/2011-08-14_13-20-31_748-1.jpg


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/crazytrain_02/2011-08-14_13-17-27_628-1.jpg


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/crazytrain_02/2011-08-14_13-18-27_982-1.jpg

[GeorgiaRoller]

....and installed my GMan battery tender.

With the amount of electrical gadgets you got on your bike you do realize it could power 12 small villages in East Africa! What do you have a "Flux Capacitor" on that damn bike or what :dontknow:...............:joke:

Congrats on the new motor mount install!

-

[BigpapaM109]

Giddyup109 and myself tackled my motor mounts tonight. First, I want to thank Bobby for the great write up. It made go pretty easy. My bike has 41k miles on it. What we found is half of the mounts looked brand new and the other half were completely warn down to metal. Inside my swingarm is perfect and there is nothing noticeable on the bike that would make me think they were bad other than the vibration.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/bigpapavtx/2011-08-17002341.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/bigpapavtx/2011-08-17002404.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/bigpapavtx/2011-08-17002434.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/bigpapavtx/2011-08-17002457.jpg

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f56/bigpapavtx/2011-08-17002518.jpg

[TRod]

Giddyup109 and myself tackled my motor mounts tonight. First, I want to thank Bobby for the great write up. It made go pretty easy. My bike has 41k miles on it. What we found is half of the mounts looked brand new and the other half were completely warn down to metal. Inside my swingarm is perfect and there is nothing noticeable on the bike that would make me think they were bad other than the vibration.

Looks like those shoulda (that's slang for should have) been replaced about 30K miles ago.

I think you need a new mechanic.:D

[BigpapaM109]

Looks like those shoulda (that's slang for should have) been replaced about 30K miles ago.

I think you need a new mechanic.:D
Says the guy who thought it was normal to look under his fender and be able to see his taillight :a20:

[TRod]

Says the guy who thought it was normal to look under his fender and be able to see his taillight :a20:

Hey! Hey! You stop it. I've had just about enough of your crap. How the hell was I suppose to know the prior owner was such a moron to take the whole inner fender out to de-beaver it. I like things held on with zip ties so I thought it was normal to have the rear fender strapped down with them.:doh:

[BigpapaM109]

Hey! Hey! You stop it. I've had just about enough of your crap. How the hell was I suppose to know the prior owner was such a moron to take the whole inner fender out to de-beaver it. I like things held on with zip ties so I thought it was normal to have the rear fender strapped down with them.:doh:Hey, I am not blaming you bro. Anyone that knows how to work on bikes easily would have known that wasn't right. I surely would not have expected YOU to pick up on it :bigthumbsup: :nojoke:

[TRod]

Hey, I am not blaming you bro. Anyone that knows how to work on bikes easily would have known that wasn't right. I surely would not have expected YOU to pick up on it :bigthumbsup: :nojoke:
And your vote of confidence in my abilities has me dancing gleefully. http://www.justm109r.com/images/smilies/happydance.gif

When I get done dancing, I'm gonna go and enjoy myself a little more. http://www.justm109r.com/images/smilies/wank1.gif

You just make me sooooooo happy! Thanks Big P! You're just the best!:bigthumbsup:

[BigpapaM109]

On a less serious note, Giddyup109 and myself went on a nice 30 mile ride. I am actually in love with my 109 again. I have it for sale currently on craigslist. Now, I am rethinking it. The shakes that I was getting....mostly gone. It is very very smooth, just like the day I bought it. I actually not explain how excited I am and how much difference it did make. I believe if you have 10k on it, you are to the point to at least check. 20k it is definitely time to have it done. I had 40k and I wish I had did it 20k ago.

[BobbyMac]

.... I am actually in love with my 109 again.. The shakes that I was getting....mostly gone. It is very very smooth, just like the day I bought it. I actually not explain how excited I am and how much difference it did make. .....


That's pretty much how I felt, too. I'm glad that you are enjoying your bike again. This is why I feel like this is the "#1, must do mod". :bigthumbsup: :doorag:

[BigpapaM109]

That's pretty much how I felt, too. I'm glad that you are enjoying your bike again. This is why I feel like this is the "#1, must do mod". :bigthumbsup: :doorag:
It definitely is the #1 must do mod at the 10k mile mark or after :D

[rudeboy109]

got me convenced Im doing it with the harder ones

[gottattooz]

I picked my motor mounts up from the dealer today, along with some exhaust gaskets. I should have them in by the weekend, if I can motivate myself to get up early enough before work to get them swapped out.

-Josh

[BigpapaM109]

I picked my motor mounts up from the dealer today, along with some exhaust gaskets. I should have them in by the weekend, if I can motivate myself to get up early enough before work to get them swapped out.

-Josh
I pm'd bobby to put this info in his thread. When you get to the 2 frame bolts behind the radiator, it is almost impossible to get an allen socket on them. We put a regular allen wrench in there and then used a wrench on the nut. When tightening down, Mike just held and put as much pressure on the wrench. I then took a rubber mallot and smacked the allen until I knew it was tight. It calls for 36 ft/lbs and I know that I am passed that. I torque everything but I wasn't draining the antifreeze and undoing the bottom radiator hose.

On other thing we found was when it was time to put the left foot peg bracket on (shifter side), no matter what we tried it would not align up to put both bolts in. I loosened up the motor mount bolt so that bracket could move a little and we put the jack right on that. It lined right back up and then we were done.

[Woody109]

On other thing we found was when it was time to put the left foot peg bracket on (shifter side), no matter what we tried it would not align up to put both bolts in. I loosened up the motor mount bolt so that bracket could move a little and we put the jack right on that. It lined right back up and then we were done.

Mine was the same way. Wondered if I did something wrong or if the frame was tweaked a little. Glad I'm not alone

[BigpapaM109]

Mine was the same way. Wondered if I did something wrong or if the frame was tweaked a little. Glad I'm not alone
I was talking to Trod on the phone about it yesterday. He figures that because the back motor mounts are probably a tiny bit worn, and the new ones up front, it may have it out of alignment just a little.

[Woody109]

We need a write up on changing the rear mounts. I know mine are worn since the left side covers don't line up exactly right. Maybe it's time to do this myself. Just hate to while there is still great riding weather.

[BigpapaM109]

We need a write up on changing the rear mounts. I know mine are worn since the left side covers don't line up exactly right. Maybe it's time to do this myself. Just hate to while there is still great riding weather.
I believe, and could be wrong, you need to remove the motor to do them.

[Woody109]

I think it can be done without removing the motor but need to remove the secondary drive assembly. Plus the exhaust so there is enough room to twist the motor. Oh and the air box so you can lift the motor high enough. While your at it maybe the battery box for a little extra room. Ahhhh, the he// with it. Just remove the motor. That's why I don't want to do it til fall.

[BigpapaM109]

I think it can be done without removing the motor but need to remove the secondary drive assembly. Plus the exhaust so there is enough room to twist the motor. Oh and the air box so you can lift the motor high enough. While your at it maybe the battery box for a little extra room. Ahhhh, the he// with it. Just remove the motor. That's why I don't want to do it til fall.
lol, yea you are right. By the time you get to that, might as well just pull it off. I may do mine for kicks over the winter but not sure.

[SVZuki]

On a less serious note, Giddyup109 and myself went on a nice 30 mile ride. I am actually in love with my 109 again. I have it for sale currently on craigslist. Now, I am rethinking it. The shakes that I was getting....mostly gone. It is very very smooth, just like the day I bought it. I actually not explain how excited I am and how much difference it did make. I believe if you have 10k on it, you are to the point to at least check. 20k it is definitely time to have it done. I had 40k and I wish I had did it 20k ago.
I'm at 23k and just bought the parts to do this. Now I need to find some free time. That is a precious commidity.

[BigpapaM109]

I'm at 23k and just bought the parts to do this. Now I need to find some free time. That is a precious commidity.
Set the smoker and let it ride. You need 3 hours so you will be fine :bigthumbsup:

[SVZuki]

Set the smoker and let it ride. You need 3 hours so you will be fine :bigthumbsup:
Excellent idea!:P

[gottattooz]

I did mine this morning, with 33,551 miles on the bike. I guess I really didn't notice the vibration as much. But, now that it's gone, I can feel the difference. Took me about an hour to do mine. I also put in some exhaust gaskets. Apparently, whoever put the Big Shots on forgot to put the gaskets back on. When I switched over to the side burner, I got a really bad decel pop. I thought it was cool at first, seing flames popping out of the exhaust. But now that's all gone. I'd say the motor mount swap is a lot like the 160/60 front tire mod. You can't really explain the difference. You just have to do it to feel it.

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36084&stc=1&d=1313684174

-Josh

[BigpapaM109]

I did mine this morning, with 33,551 miles on the bike. I guess I really didn't notice the vibration as much. But, now that it's gone, I can feel the difference. Took me about an hour to do mine. I also put in some exhaust gaskets. Apparently, whoever put the Big Shots on forgot to put the gaskets back on. When I switched over to the side burner, I got a really bad decel pop. I thought it was cool at first, seing flames popping out of the exhaust. But now that's all gone. I'd say the motor mount swap is a lot like the 160/60 front tire mod. You can't really explain the difference. You just have to do it to feel it.

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36084&stc=1&d=1313684174

-Josh
an hour? was that from start to finish or just undoing the bolt and pulling out the old and in with the new? LOL

[Woody109]

I agree. If you did this in an hour....You might wanna double check that everything is tight and good to go. Either that or let my ex be the first to ride it!

[gottattooz]

an hour? was that from start to finish or just undoing the bolt and pulling out the old and in with the new? LOL

Start to finish. I thought it'd be a simple swap, even after reading BobbyMac's write-up. Took a little longer than I thought, but it wasn't difficult in the least.

-Josh

[BigpapaM109]

I agree. If you did this in an hour....You might wanna double check that everything is tight and good to go. Either that or let my ex be the first to ride it!
:agree: Not saying he didn't but I cannot see doing this in under 2 hours with putting everything back together. I very well may be wrong as I tend to take my time and double check everything but still... :D

[SVZuki]

:agree: Not saying he didn't but I cannot see doing this in under 2 hours with putting everything back together. I very well may be wrong as I tend to take my time and double check everything but still... :D
Sounds like I have a time challenge when I do mine:evil:

[BigpapaM109]

Sounds like I have a time challenge when I do mine:evil:
Let's see what you got :D

[SVZuki]

Let's see what you got :D
Now if only the stealer could get both motor mounts instead of just the 1 they received so I could do this.:doh:

[Giddyup109]

I can't see anyone being able to disassemble, remove and replace mounts, and re-assemble the bike in an hour? Doesn't seem possible.......

Sent from my Thunderbolt

[BigpapaM109]

Now if only the stealer could get both motor mounts instead of just the 1 they received so I could do this.:doh:
Sorry Nick....time is ticking. Looks like you will be our first 3 day install :P

[SVZuki]

Sorry Nick....time is ticking. Looks like you will be our first 3 day install :P
damnit...:redfaced:

Edit: Dealer won't have my 2nd motor mount until Tuesday...I'm not going to be setting any records...

[gottattooz]

I'm not trying to set a world record here. I walked out to the garage at around 10 am and remember seeing the clock at 11:24 am when I was heading out to do my test ride. I did the exhaust gaskets first, which took about 10-15 minutes. I rolled the bike outside for more room to do the mounts. BobbyMac's write-up pretty much summed it up step by step. I didn't have to do any guesswork, so that saved me a lot of time. The pipes don't backfire anymore and the ride is a lot smoother.

[BIGD....]

I set no record, but I just completed the mounts and clutch cable in about 3-1/2 hours. Pretty straightforward how-to, however I recommend upon reassembly you reinstall the frame bolts behind the shifter first. I wasted about 45 minutes struggling to get those in last... Great write up and well worth the time and money investment. Extremely noticable improvement at 25k. Thanks, Big D :bigthumbsup:

[Boogs109]

Thanks Bob :bigthumbsup: just ordered mine from partshark.com so will be a few weeks before I get mine across the pond.

Cheers,
Boogs...

[mad dog 1]

Guys
I dont know whats happening over there
But i ordered a pair of the Hard compound mounts 11652-10G30
Here in Adelaide on Wednesday from local dealer
They arrived on Friday 2 day turn around and $23.00 each
im thinking of ordering 2 more and replace all 4 lower mounts
as my beast has just past the 50000klms mark in just over 18 months
so i think the rear lower might also be shot

[Lurch.]

Ok.... just want to clarify all this, so it's clear in my head...
There are 6 (3x2) Mounts. Which are all identical except the rear ones (as quoted by the part number) are made of a harder compound?
The front ones seem easy enough to do (as per the how-to), however people are suggesting that the 2 rear sets (upper and lower) do/may require a whole engine removal to do?

[BigpapaM109]

Ok.... just want to clarify all this, so it's clear in my head...
There are 6 (3x2) Mounts. Which are all identical except the rear ones (as quoted by the part number) are made of a harder compound?
The front ones seem easy enough to do (as per the how-to), however people are suggesting that the 2 rear sets (upper and lower) do/may require a whole engine removal to do?
Correct. 4 in the rear are harder, 2 up front are softer. Before thinking about doing the rears, do the fronts and see. At 40k miles, my bike rides like brand new just by doing the fronts. I wouldn't even mess with the rears unless I have to.

[joem]

I just put mine in today. Took about 3.5 hours I ran into a problem putting it back together though, the left footrest bracket had a cross threaded bolt (easy fix). I did find it easier leaving the bike on the sidestand and just using a floor jack to support the motor. The new mount bushings make a huge difference, its much smoother and more enjoyable. very happy with the results.

[rudeboy109]

Just got the harder motor mounts today, YAY. Now to install them.

Suzuki part # 11652-10G30

Thanks Bobby for Insight and Install tips :bigthumbsup:
update: Installed and work killer-----a mod must

[godzuki]

When I did min, I'm pretty sure it was 3+ hours, but in my defense, there was a large volume of Gin involved.

[Mntsnow]

I just finished doing mine at 27K and as you can see compared to a new one they were long overdue for being done....I was going to do it over the winter but I got bored at home today as wifey was working and I had already done a 2 hour ride by myself....Took me just over 2 hours taking my sweet time as I was in no rush and doing it on one of my lifts made it so much easier than doing it on the floor (I helped Paul aka Wifes109) do his 2 weeks ago at his house on the ground and with both of us it took almost about the same time again not in any rush as we were doing other things on his bike at the same time (valve shims).... We plan on doing his wife's bike, Stacie's aka BionicTwistyGirl mounts in a couple of weeks at my place on one of my lifts and with both of us it will be under an hour since he has done it once and I have done it twice now.

Ohh and to bring my frame back together I just bolted up the left side good and snug and then used the actual motor mount long bolt to pull it together and then got the two frame takedown bolts on the left installed then loosened the motormount long bolt and then installed the right side top two frame takedown bolts and the right side rear frame takedown bolts and tightened them down and then the long motor mount bolt...then put the rest of the items I had to take off back on.

http://www.mym109r.com/gallery/data/515/medium/mounts-1.jpg (http://www.mym109r.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1238)

[BigpapaM109]

I just finished doing mine at 27K and as you can see compared to a new one they were long overdue for being done....I was going to do it over the winter but I got bored at home today as wifey was working and I had already done a 2 hour ride by myself....Took me just over 2 hours taking my sweet time as I was in no rush and doing it on one of my lifts made it so much easier than doing it on the floor (I helped Paul aka Wifes109) do his 2 weeks ago at his house on the ground and with both of us it took almost about the same time again not in any rush as we were doing other things on his bike at the same time (valve shims).... We plan on doing his wife's bike, Stacie's aka BionicTwistyGirl mounts in a couple of weeks at my place on one of my lifts and with both of us it will be under an hour since he has done it once and I have done it twice now.

Ohh and to bring my frame back together I just bolted up the left side good and snug and then used the actual motor mount long bolt to pull it together and then got the two frame takedown bolts on the left installed then loosened the motormount long bolt and then installed the right side top two frame takedown bolts and the right side rear frame takedown bolts and tightened them down and then the long motor mount bolt...then put the rest of the items I had to take off back on.

http://www.mym109r.com/gallery/data/515/medium/mounts-1.jpg (http://www.mym109r.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1238)
How does it feel? FYI, you can also use a ratchet strap to bring the frame together as well. :bigthumbsup:

[Mntsnow]

It is much better (smoother) and I do not lose as much slack in the clutch cable that I was with the worn out mounts

[9ar]

hey fellow 9ers my buddy had his mounts replaced but not befroe it burned a bearing in transmisson how hard is it to change and can I do it without taking motor out the shop is going to charge to remove and replace the engine please advise and how do I check to see if they are bad I have a r-2 I know some oarts and gears are different on them so let here fellows help Ive fallen and I cant get lol

[antmor69]

hey fellow 9ers my buddy had his mounts replaced but not befroe it burned a bearing in transmisson how hard is it to change and can I do it without taking motor out the shop is going to charge to remove and replace the engine please advise and how do I check to see if they are bad I have a r-2 I know some oarts and gears are different on them so let here fellows help Ive fallen and I cant get lol

If you read the beginning of this thread it will show you how to do it. The only difference on the R2 is the headlight. Mechanically they are the same.

[vdiazz]

I order my motor mounts from Powersports-Plus for $12.59 each with a total of $32.13 with shipping. They sent me a e-mail with a delivery day of November 19. I started Saturday to get everything loose but did not pull the frame apart waiting for my mounts to get here. Took me about 1 hour to get everything ready for my new mounts(Thanks to BobbyMac howto). Well they never got here. Call today and they told me they are on backorder nationwide thru December 1 with a 2 day delivery from Atlanta i won't get mounts here in Florida to the 3th. I can't wait that long. Call Deland Powersports in Sanford today and they had 2 left in stock. Order them for a little more and they will be here tomorrow:clap2:. Josh(gottattooz) you safe,I will not be breaking your record of 1 hour.LOL:cus:
Vic

[JMAKAMN]

replaced my front mounts a couple weeks ago. took me 2 1/2 hrs by myself. this bike feels brand new again. very little vibration at 4000 rpm range.:clap2::clap2::clap2:

[antmor69]

I order my motor mounts from Powersports-Plus for $12.59 each with a total of $32.13 with shipping. They sent me a e-mail with a delivery day of November 19. I started Saturday to get everything loose but did not pull the frame apart waiting for my mounts to get here. Took me about 1 hour to get everything ready for my new mounts(Thanks to BobbyMac howto). Well they never got here. Call today and they told me they are on backorder nationwide thru December 1 with a 2 day delivery from Atlanta i won't get mounts here in Florida to the 3th. I can't wait that long. Call Deland Powersports in Sanford today and they had 2 left in stock. Order them for a little more and they will be here tomorrow:clap2:. Josh(gottattooz) you safe,I will not be breaking your record of 1 hour.LOL:cus:
Vic

I ordered mine from Deland on the 11th and still don't have em yet.

[Woody109]

I ordered mine from Deland on the 11th and still don't have em yet.

That's cause they sold em to vdiazz!!

:joke::joke::joke:

[gottattooz]

. Josh(gottattooz) you safe,I will not be breaking your record of 1 hour.LOL:cus:
Vic

I've noticed that my bike doesn't have half the stuff on it that other members bikes have. I have the forward controls on my 9 and there's 2 or 3 brackets or guards on other bikes that I don't have. Take your time and do it right. BobbyMac's write up is as self-explanatory as it gets.

-Josh

[BigpapaM109]

I've noticed that my bike doesn't have half the stuff on it that other members bikes have. I have the forward controls on my 9 and there's 2 or 3 brackets or guards on other bikes that I don't have. Take your time and do it right. BobbyMac's write up is as self-explanatory as it gets.

-Josh
Well there is your other hour pal :joke:

[**CENSORED**]

Correct. 4 in the rear are harder, 2 up front are softer. Before thinking about doing the rears, do the fronts and see. At 40k miles, my bike rides like brand new just by doing the fronts. I wouldn't even mess with the rears unless I have to.
Not true per the drawing. Only the rear upper is hard, the bottom is soft.

[Mntsnow]

Censored is correct the Front and Lower rear mounts stock are the softer version and the Upper rear is the harder compound that many of us are now using for the front.

[BigpapaM109]

Not true per the drawing. Only the rear upper is hard, the bottom is soft.
Thanks for the info. I wonder if it is worth changing out the bottoms then. I would think it would definitely have some harsher vibration.

[Giddyup109]

Thanks for the info. I wonder if it is worth changing out the bottoms then. I would think it would definitely have some harsher vibration.
Those will take a little more than 2 hours, quite a bit more work to get to the rear mounts.........Ok Bobby, where's the rear motor mount how to???:dontknow: :o :joke:

[Giddyup109]

Those will take a little more than 2 hours, quite a bit more work to get to the rear mounts.........Ok Bobby, where's the rear motor mount how to???:dontknow: :o :joke:
Ok....I'll start it.........

1) Remove the motor.

[Nemo]

Ok....I'll start it.........

1) Remove the motor.
2) Take to Bobbys house.

[vdiazz]

Finally got the motor mounts done. Took a short 40 miles run and the different is like day and night. If you have not change your motor mounts to the hard one, DO IT NOW. There is no more vibration on the beast. Special thanx to BigPapa and BobbyMac for the info,that's the reason why this forum ROCKS.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee435/moto109/photo3.jpg
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee435/moto109/photo.jpg
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee435/moto109/photo2.jpg

[antmor69]

Finally received my mounts yesterday. Thinking about doing them tomorrow.

[racer 50]

changed my front motor mounts and the beast has no more vibration! actually I didn't, had the shop do it, but it a hell of alot better like new!

[gottattooz]

We actually changed Mark's (20smoke) motor mounts yesterday. There's a lot more stuff in the way on his bike than there was on mine. We did it in just over 2 hours. Now I know what all those empty holes and missing brackets were for. We also put on a Motion Pro clutch cable.

-Josh

[BigpapaM109]

We actually changed Mark's (20smoke) motor mounts yesterday. There's a lot more stuff in the way on his bike than there was on mine. We did it in just over 2 hours. Now I know what all those empty holes and missing brackets were for. We also put on a Motion Pro clutch cable.

-Josh

Yea, totally makes sense how you did yours so fast. I think 2 to 2 1/2 hours is the norm.

[antmor69]

Did my mounts today. Very pleased with the results. Bike is very smooth. Vibration is gone and it's much smoother transitioning from accel to decel. Took longer than I thought it would but I don't get in a hurry when I work on my bike.

[Snowblind]

Has anyone checked the C109 bushes and how they compare? Are those harder, softer or same?

C109 has four 11652-10G50 and two 11652-10G40


That's a good question!

[antmor69]

On the M the G30 number is the harder compound.

[Gigantor]

Antmor69, did you do your mounts on the kickstand or did you put the bike on a lift? I am going to do this mod real soon and must have read over this thread a dozen times and I'm still nervous. I ask because I heard that doing it on the kickstand is much easier and do you still have to loosen all those frame bolts?

[Scorp]

Save your old mounts. I'll take them. I'm trying to get some urethane mount going.

[BigpapaM109]

Antmor69, did you do your mounts on the kickstand or did you put the bike on a lift? I am going to do this mod real soon and must have read over this thread a dozen times and I'm still nervous. I ask because I heard that doing it on the kickstand is much easier and do you still have to loosen all those frame bolts?
I honestly cannot see how it is any easier then doing it on a lift. Either way you have to jack the motor up. Being on a lift it is straight up and higher off the ground to work with. No need to be nervious, it really isn't hard. You have to loosen all the frame bolts because you have to remove the right side of the frame to get to the motor mounts.

[george james]

Has anyone checked the C109 bushes and how they compare? Are those harder, softer or same?

C109 has four 11652-10G50 and two 11652-10G40






does the c109 have the same wear out issues as the m?

[antmor69]

Antmor69, did you do your mounts on the kickstand or did you put the bike on a lift? I am going to do this mod real soon and must have read over this thread a dozen times and I'm still nervous. I ask because I heard that doing it on the kickstand is much easier and do you still have to loosen all those frame bolts?

I've done two of them on the kickstand. I don't have a lift. I have a bike jack but figured it would get in my way so I just did them on the kickstand. You have to remove the frame bolts or you can't remove the right side mount.

[antmor69]

A little tidbit to add to this how-to that I haven't seen mentioned before. I've done 2 of them now and advised on another. When putting the frame back together it makes life alot easier if you start the 2 bolts on the lower left (shifter) side first. These are the two behind the radiator down low. If you don't you will have a difficult time getting them started. I also found it easier to start the two bolts on the left foot peg bracket while having the long bolt that goes through the mounts out. Once they are started then put the long bolt in.

[swatcop]

A little tidbit to add to this how-to that I haven't seen mentioned before. I've done 2 of them now and advised on another. When putting the frame back together it makes life alot easier if you start the 2 bolts on the lower left (shifter) side first. These are the two behind the radiator down low. If you don't you will have a difficult time getting them started. I also found it easier to start the two bolts on the left foot peg bracket while having the long bolt that goes through the mounts out. Once they are started then put the long bolt in.


Great advise Anthony. Ya beat me to it. Thanks for all of the help, either by text messages or phone calls. I got it done in just over 2 hrs with the help of David (Dre319). I'm just waiting for my shroud to come back from Icebox. Then I will see what the difference is with the new mounts.

[rockfordrider]

anyway of printing the how to part with out the extra pages?

[Mntsnow]

Yeah...Just do a Copy and Paste of the 2nd posting in this thread into Word and then hit print :bigthumbsup:

[antmor69]

That's a good idea but it's also a good idea to read the entire thread. There are some other helpful hints along the way.

[Mntsnow]

I would then C & P those helpful hints into the word document along with the main info but I guess I try to give others more credit than I should in the smarts department :joke:

[rockfordrider]

I would then C & P those helpful hints into the word document along with the main info but I guess I try to give others more credit than I should in the smarts department :joke:


This sounds helpful, How about for all of us dummies maybe you could reconstruct the best points and start a printable version of this thread and have board support make it into a sticky where there are no other replies? I dont even think I have word on my puter LOL at least I have never used it:redfaced:

[Gigantor]

OK I tried to do this MOD with VERY limited tools and by myself. I jacked it up..... Everything was going fine until I had to remove the frame bolts. On the right side the two lower ones and one of the top by the horn simply will not break loose. I got the the very top one loose, but the lower one (Pic) I stripped the nut something fierce. I don't know what to do now, what is a good way to remove that stupid stripped nut and loosen the other ones. I got the left mount out already, but cannot go on to do the right side mount. Also, this is what my left mount looks like, curious how bad the right side will be I got 27,500 miles on my bike right now.

[Chilly Rock]

OK I tried to do this MOD with VERY limited tools and by myself. I jacked it up..... Everything was going fine until I had to remove the frame bolts. On the right side the two lower ones and one of the top by the horn simply will not break loose. I got the the very top one loose, but the lower one (Pic) I stripped the nut something fierce. I don't know what to do now, what is a good way to remove that stupid stripped nut and loosen the other ones. I got the left mount out already, but cannot go on to do the right side mount. Also, this is what my left mount looks like, curious how bad the right side will be I got 27,500 miles on my bike right now.

I had the same problem. I sprayed some wd40 on the nut and waited about 15 minutes then it came off with ease.

[Scorp]

What is everyone doing with there old mounts after replacing them? I'm working on a mold for polyurethane.

[gottattooz]

Mine are still sitting on my tool box. Send me your address, and I"ll get them out to you.

-Josh

[antmor69]

OK I tried to do this MOD with VERY limited tools and by myself. I jacked it up..... Everything was going fine until I had to remove the frame bolts. On the right side the two lower ones and one of the top by the horn simply will not break loose. I got the the very top one loose, but the lower one (Pic) I stripped the nut something fierce. I don't know what to do now, what is a good way to remove that stupid stripped nut and loosen the other ones. I got the left mount out already, but cannot go on to do the right side mount. Also, this is what my left mount looks like, curious how bad the right side will be I got 27,500 miles on my bike right now.

If you have one of the upper ones out you should be able to get a pair of vise grips on the other one. On the lower bolts on the right side I stuck an Allen wrench in and stepped on it and crack they come loose. On the nuts it's best if you use a 6-point wrench.

[Gigantor]

Vise grips, and stepping on the allen wrench, I will try that tomorrow. I feel so bad that I did not manage to get it done and ride today. Thanks for the advice. Thats why I love this board

[tydaniels]

I ran into the same problem today, only difference being I stripped the lower bolts on right side, became so frustrated I decided to quit for the day, figured I'll try again tomorrow. Had no problems witht the 5 other bolts.

[CBR1000DUDE]

Yeah, it can be real hard to loosen these bolts for the first time, especially with an L shaped allen wrench. A set of metric allen sockets from Sears really helps. Put it in the hole and tap it in real good with a hammer to make sure it's seated all the way before you attach a breaker bar. If it's not fully seated, it will strip much easier.
Worse case, drill off the head of the bolt, and you should be able to grip the end and turn it out after it's apart.
These factory bolts have a little tang that breaks off the first time they are removed, it's sort of a lock nut. That's why they are so hard to start,(and you hear a snap) and they say to use new ones after removal. BS I say, just use blue locktite when reinstalling like every other bolt. Mine are still tight. I guess they don't trust the factory to use locktite, I can't see any other reason for this moronic set up.:D

[Gigantor]

That's what did it. I bought a allen socket set and used my 1/2 in drive ratchet, BAM all the bolts came right off. Now I need to buy the new nuts, which I stripped out, and some blue locktite and I will put the beast back together as soon as I can uncover it with all this crappy weather. Thanks for all the help, on this MOD and quick responses. I love this place. I even found out to use the dishsoap to push the new ounts in with here. :bigthumbsup: Like a OJ Simpson glove, fit right in nice and tight.

[Gigantor]

Ok, so I finished putting everything together during my lunch time, hit a few snags but nothing major since I was doing this MOD by myself in my backyard. I take the bike out and :o:clap2::hot:it responds so much better and yes the severe vibration is almost non-existent. The main difference I felt was that my shifting has gotten SSSOOOOO much easier from 1st to 2nd and even the dreaded 3rd to 2nd shift is much better now. It almost feels like the transmission falls into those gears. Plus I learned alot about my bike, I am not afraid to tackle anything on that now. Everybody with more than 10,000 miles should do this MOD.

[CanadianM109R]

Metric Allen Sockets and a breaker bar makes the job much easier.

I changed my coolant at the same time by disconnecting the 2 lower rad hoses since my bike is an 08 model and the coolant is getting to the end of its lifespan anyways. The added benefit is that it makes access to the frame bolts and other stuff in that area much easier. Don't forget to pull the hose on the overflow resevoir as well.

[nascar4011]

Just finished installing mine, took about 4hrs total and what a differnce it made to this bike....definitely worth the effort. almost all vibration is gone!

The only hitch I had was I pushed the new mounts in the there hole and forgot about the bushing had to pull one side back out a little to get bushing in.... Thanks everyone for the how too!

[tinman357]

going to install an moving thread to top???

[Deno_n_philly]

I have a 2011, I take it this is a MOD for long term and nothing that needs to be done the first couple of years?

I feel the vibration on my bike as well.. if my rpm's are way to low they shake and rattle a little.. way worse then my Busa did...

I also do feel it slightly when I am goin over 90...

[BigpapaM109]

Just finished installing mine, took about 4hrs total and what a differnce it made to this bike....definitely worth the effort. almost all vibration is gone!

The only hitch I had was I pushed the new mounts in the there hole and forgot about the bushing had to pull one side back out a little to get bushing in.... Thanks everyone for the how too!

I found that if you use some grease on the bushings, and beat them in with a block of wood and a hammer they will seat right in pretty easily.

[antmor69]

I have a 2011, I take it this is a MOD for long term and nothing that needs to be done the first couple of years?

I feel the vibration on my bike as well.. if my rpm's are way to low they shake and rattle a little.. way worse then my Busa did...

I also do feel it slightly when I am goin over 90...

This is actually an upgrade as well as a maintenance item. The front mounts from the factory are too soft. Replacing them with the harder compound rear mount takes out a lot of the vibration.

[Deno_n_philly]

Ant,, Appreciate it.. when I get around to it,, I will definitely do it.. it doesn't look to hard either.. a friend who i used to ride busa's with has a garage, maybe he can help me.. thanks man..

[tinman357]

replaced mounts haven't been able to ride it though. 12,600 miles on 09 bottom of mounts where flat. good article. helped with replacement.thanks

[rockfordrider]

Didnt want to muddy up the How too. but didnt know where else to post it.


THANK-YOU BobbyMac

My transmission sends this out to you, who would have know crappy motormounts would cause such misallignment in everthing.

[gottattooz]

I'm noticing an alignment issue that's a visual cue for needing your motor mounts replaced. If you look at the picture below at the chrome engine covers behind the kickstand, see how the gap is smaller at the top than it is on the bottom? That was before I replaced my mounts. Now, the gap is equal from top to bottom.

-Josh

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55158&d=1314161128 (http://www.m109riders.com/forums/album.php?albumid=572&attachmentid=55157)

[hunt1moore]

Ok,
I just replaced mine at 10,000 miles. They were already worn flat on one side typical to most all I have seen on here.

A helpful tip:
Before you tighten the long motor mount bolt, temporarily insert left side footpeg bracket bolts (only). Thread them into the motor mount. This will help keep the motor mount bracket alligned for subsequent mounting of the peg bracket.

[hunt1moore]

I went into my shop this morning after replacing my motor mounts last night and realized that I almost had a disaster! I had wifey help me relocate the borrowed MC lift so that I could get my floor jack under the front of the motor. After I had performed the swap and tightened the frame bolts I went in for the night. This morning I find my bike frame leaning on the floor jack half way pulled out where I had left it. I forgot to lock the MC lift and it had leaked down. Bike was teetering at best and kick stand was up!

Make sure you guys remember to lock those lifts!

[k109]

finally going to do mine Saturday I have read this thread many times and I am just curious where are you placing the jack on motor assuming the bike is on the motorcycle jack already are you placing it on the oil pan if so are you putting something there like a piece of wood does anybody have pics I am more a visual person

thanks

[antmor69]

finally going to do mine Saturday I have read this thread many times and I am just curious where are you placing the jack on motor assuming the bike is on the motorcycle jack already are you placing it on the oil pan if so are you putting something there like a piece of wood does anybody have pics I am more a visual person

thanks

I didn't put mine on the motorcycle jack. I just left the bike on the kickstand and put my floor jack under it with a 1x4 piece of wood. My concern was jacking it with the floor jack and making it fall off of the motorcycle jack. Worked just fine the way I did it.

[k109]

I didn't put mine on the motorcycle jack. I just left the bike on the kickstand and put my floor jack under it with a 1x4 piece of wood. My concern was jacking it with the floor jack and making it fall off of the motorcycle jack. Worked just fine the way I did it.

I was thinking the same thing,I was going to put bike in wheel chock I have so bike is straight up and I would only have to lift motor and was concerned about bike being on MC jack while lifting the motor but the how to stated you need two jacks but no pics of bike on jack
thanks antmor now I am looking forward to saturday even more

[hunt1moore]

The motorcycle jack is to lift the bike and keep it up-right for ease of working on it. The floor jack is to keep the front of the motor from dropping. I place the MC jack toward the back of the bike to give room for the floor jack.
If yo have a MC trailer you can load your bike and strap it down to steady it then only use the floor jack to support the motor.

[k109]

The motorcycle jack is to lift the bike and keep it up-right for ease of working on it. The floor jack is to keep the front of the motor from dropping. I place the MC jack toward the back of the bike to give room for the floor jack.
If yo have a MC trailer you can load your bike and strap it down to steady it then only use the floor jack to support the motor.

thanks that is my plan just wanted to be sure before I get started thanks again

[Zoom]

I did mine on the sidestand and used a screw type jack to support the engine. I started with a hydraulic jack but found the screw jack gave me finer adjustments to align the items. I put the jack right behind the filter on the oil filter adapter, no wood or anything since it was just supporting part of the weight of the engine.

[k109]

Did mine today they were not bad LOL[
ATTACH]68063[/ATTACH]
http://img.tapatalk.com/47ebe90a-78c5-402d.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/47ebe90a-78df-641f.jpg

[kawzx7]

I'm noticing an alignment issue that's a visual cue for needing your motor mounts replaced. If you look at the picture below at the chrome engine covers behind the kickstand, see how the gap is smaller at the top than it is on the bottom? That was before I replaced my mounts. Now, the gap is equal from top to bottom.

-Josh

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55158&d=1314161128 (http://www.m109riders.com/forums/album.php?albumid=572&attachmentid=55157)

AWESOME TIP! Hard to believe I know, but at 13k, I'm still pretty equal, maybe a *hair* shorter on top. I was concerned about all this.

[hunt1moore]

Now that I have performed this mod, all I can say is I would do it again regardless if mine are worn or not. It really makes the bike feel tight and smooth like it is suppose to feel.

[kawzx7]

Now that I have performed this mod, all I can say is I would do it again regardless if mine are worn or not. It really makes the bike feel tight and smooth like it is suppose to feel.

I hear ya, but it's a lot of work and I really don't have any complaints about vibe.

[hunt1moore]

I was feeling the same with 10k on my bike but just for the sake of it I ordered the bushings anyway thinking one day I'll break down and install them. I accumulated a bunch of mods that were just sitting on my work bench for months and one day I broke down and started the process. It took me a few days working on it a couple hours each time installing all the mods but man what a difference the bushings made.

[k109]

Now that I have performed this mod, all I can say is I would do it again regardless if mine are worn or not. It really makes the bike feel tight and smooth like it is suppose to feel.

I agree with you completely went for a ride after install and was amazed.

I would like to add one thing not sure if it has been mentioned but I didn't remove brake pedal at all as stated in original write up once you take off the shield and the peg bracket bolts the whole assembly with master cylinder came free I just laid it on a towel on the ground next to bike.

[kawzx7]

I was feeling the same with 10k on my bike but just for the sake of it I ordered the bushings anyway thinking one day I'll break down and install them. I accumulated a bunch of mods that were just sitting on my work bench for months and one day I broke down and started the process. It took me a few days working on it a couple hours each time installing all the mods but man what a difference the bushings made.

Yeah it would take another mod or two for me to tackle this at the same time, or should I say, a qualified mechanic to tackle it. I am not well versed enough.

[antmor69]

Yeah it would take another mod or two for me to tackle this at the same time, or should I say, a qualified mechanic to tackle it. I am not well versed enough.

Maybe your 7 year old neighbor can do it for ya! :joke:

[kawzx7]

Maybe your 7 year old neighbor can do it for ya! :joke:

She quite possibly could!! Kids are smarter than ever these days.

[MSilvia]

Completed the job in 3 hours did not need to take out all 6 frame bolts left 1 in to pivot down, Bobby definitely agree with you to put it back together in reverse order of disassembly. Clean and regrease brake pedal bushing, use loctite on horn, foot, & rear master cylinder brackets. Mine at 18K were 1/2 worn down on the lower sides of the mounts. Your photo instructions are excellent for guide use. After a 100 mile shake down ride bike performs 100% better at lower RPM's where some like to "lug" an engine no vibration from the tank at all when not downshifing and accellerating. Suzuki must have done this on purpose as the vibration over 3500 is barely there more of a slight buzz on the footpegs. Good easy recommended job, saves about $400.00 from the dealer that can be used for more cycle bling. :~)

[BobbyMac]

....Bobby definitely agree with you to put it back together in reverse order of disassembly. Clean and regrease brake pedal bushing, use loctite on horn, foot, & rear master cylinder brackets. Mine at 18K were 1/2 worn down on the lower sides of the mounts. Your photo instructions are excellent for guide use.....



I'm glad this "How To" is helping folks....it really is a must do mod for EVERY BIKE out there IMHO. :bigthumbsup:

[nascar4011]

I didn't put mine on the motorcycle jack. I just left the bike on the kickstand and put my floor jack under it with a 1x4 piece of wood. My concern was jacking it with the floor jack and making it fall off of the motorcycle jack. Worked just fine the way I did it.

Same here!

[SWM109Rider]

And help me swap out my M109 Motor Mounts on a Red 2007 with 9400 miles. I do not trust competition accessories which is the closest Suzuki shop I know of. PM me I am not asking for a freebie.

[LTM109R]

I have a 2011 that I bought new, is the consensus that the stock needs to be replaced no matter what the year or mileage?

[BigpapaM109]

I have a 2011 that I bought new, is the consensus that the stock needs to be replaced no matter what the year or mileage?

I have done 6 sets and it really varies. We did mine at 42k miles and they were shot! My wife's were done at 18k and hers were actually in decent shape. Giddyup109's were done around the same mileage as my wifes and his were just a little worse than hers. 2 others were done and around 15k miles were in bad shape.

So, to answer your question, each bike is different. I would say that at 15k miles I would start looking to get them done. Anything before, isn't really a must unless you are feeling some crazy vibration.

[No Mas]

I have done 6 sets and it really varies. We did mine at 42k miles and they were shot! My wife's were done at 18k and hers were actually in decent shape. Giddyup109's were done around the same mileage as my wifes and his were just a little worse than hers. 2 others were done and around 15k miles were in bad shape.

So, to answer your question, each bike is different. I would say that at 15k miles I would start looking to get them done. Anything before, isn't really a must unless you are feeling some crazy vibration.


Did Mine last week with 19k on and it neede it. So much smoother all around including shifting feel.
Bought extras for my fiends.

[BigpapaM109]

Did Mine last week with 19k on and it neede it. So much smoother all around including shifting feel.
Bought extras for my fiends.

Agreed, everyone I have seen around that mileage needed it. I just didn't want the other user to think he needs to run out and do them today with urgency.

[LTM109R]

Thanks BigPapa! Only have 4000 miles on the bike, so I can do this mod next year.

[BigpapaM109]

Thanks BigPapa! Only have 4000 miles on the bike, so I can do this mod next year.

You're welcome. Even more than years, go by miles and "feel". People have seen significant wear from 7k on upwards. It isn't a must mod until they get really bad. Like I posted above, I haven't seen ones "horrible" under 15k miles, at least nothing to worry about.

[TRod]

Mine were sagging a good 1/4" at 10K miles so I replaced them.

[BigpapaM109]

Mine were sagging a good 1/4" at 10K miles so I replaced them.

Think about it, if you were a bike and had some 600lb oaf riding you, you would sag a 1/4" as well :D

[SWM109Rider]

Mine is not sagging at all yet but at 3500rpm like all others the vibration bugs me, but it is only slight vibration.

[lostrider]

Mine is not sagging at all yet but at 3500rpm like all others the vibration bugs me, but it is only slight vibration.

I had no noticeable sag either but I went ahead and changed the mounts out and I'm glad I did. I have no vibration at all at 3500 rpm anymore. Like Bobby said " best mod you can do to this bike"

[SWM109Rider]

Well anyone know of any shops near Dayton that can be trusted to do this job?

What would be a decent price for the job how many hours, by reading this thread it is all over.

[antmor69]

Well anyone know of any shops near Dayton that can be trusted to do this job?

What would be a decent price for the job how many hours, by reading this thread it is all over.

Dayton Ohio? If that's the case and you don't wanna do it yourself it would probably be worth to the trip to Matt's (futurR) shop in Indiana.

[SWM109Rider]

Yes that would be Dayton Ohio.

[BigpapaM109]

Well anyone know of any shops near Dayton that can be trusted to do this job?

What would be a decent price for the job how many hours, by reading this thread it is all over.

hand them a print out of the instructions on this thread and tell them the average non-mechanic does it in 3 hours. That should be there charge so figure $300 labor give or take.

[tonymontanna1983]

Has anyone had these changed out under warranty? I have an extended warranty and may try to get the dealer to change them out

[BobbyMac]

Has anyone had these changed out under warranty? I have an extended warranty and may try to get the dealer to change them out

LOL....you tell funny jokes.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[gottattooz]

Has anyone had these changed out under warranty? I have an extended warranty and may try to get the dealer to change them out

I want to say that Kyle (Slick109r) had his replaced under warranty by his dealer. I"m not 100% certain, but I vaguely remember talking about it with him.

-Josh

[tarnol]

I actually got mine replaced under my warranty. I only had 8,000 miles on my bike and the front mounts were already worn out a little on the top. It's because of this site and reading about it that I had my dealer check them out while I was getting my oil changed and he said he would send it in to see if Suzuki would cover it. I got a call back 3 days later saying to bring my bike in and they would fix it. They also ordered the rear mounts that are harder and put them in for me also.

When they got the old mounts out they couldn't believe how much had worn down on the mounts.

[Bullie]

I did this mod and put the bike back together but I can not get that last peg bolt back in on the shifter side. I have tried just about everything but a hammer but haven't gotten it yet. Any suggestions on how to get that last bolt done would be greatly appreciated. I did this all by myself and it took me all night since I am not all that mechanical but the "How to" was really easy to follow. Any body wanna come to Bakersfield and help me out?:dontknow:Because I have no clue at this point!!! Thinking about taking to the dealer and paying to have it done because its only about 80-90 degrees and its great riding weather here.

[Snowblind]

I did this mod and put the bike back together but I can not get that last peg bolt back in on the shifter side. I have tried just about everything but a hammer but haven't gotten it yet. Any suggestions on how to get that last bolt done would be greatly appreciated. I did this all by myself and it took me all night since I am not all that mechanical but the "How to" was really easy to follow. Any body wanna come to Bakersfield and help me out?:dontknow:Because I have no clue at this point!!! Thinking about taking to the dealer and paying to have it done because its only about 80-90 degrees and its great riding weather here.

I had a similar issue and had to play around quite a lot with it. I then had someone run into me about 4 months ago bending the foot peg and the actual bracket. I could not get the bolt in for the life of me. I ended up drilling the hole out and getting a high tensile bolt, lock washer and nut to go through it because it would not catch the thread in the frame. I've been 4 months running with the new bolt and haven't had an issue. Probably not terribly conventional but it did the trick and it's not visible.


Nathan

[gottattooz]

The shifter side is a pain in the butt ( not that you don't already know that)!! I say take the other bolts out, and put the bolt in that you're having the problem with first. Sometimes, the order in which the bolts go in makes the difference. When I went to Dennis' house (CaptnPirate), I had issues with the shifter side. I can't remember what the deal was, but one bolt kept fighting me. I took them all out and tried again in a different order, and it was much easier.

-Josh

[antmor69]

I did this mod and put the bike back together but I can not get that last peg bolt back in on the shifter side. I have tried just about everything but a hammer but haven't gotten it yet. Any suggestions on how to get that last bolt done would be greatly appreciated. I did this all by myself and it took me all night since I am not all that mechanical but the "How to" was really easy to follow. Any body wanna come to Bakersfield and help me out?:dontknow:Because I have no clue at this point!!! Thinking about taking to the dealer and paying to have it done because its only about 80-90 degrees and its great riding weather here.

It's been a while since I've done it but if I remember correctly I took the long bolt back out (the one that goes through the mounts). Got the peg bracket bolts started and then put the long bolt back in.

[Bullie]

It's been a while since I've done it but if I remember correctly I took the long bolt back out (the one that goes through the mounts). Got the peg bracket bolts started and then put the long bolt back in.

I will give a shot tomorrow. If that doesn't work it's off to the dealer I go. Thanks for the quick response guys. This is the absolute best place for reliable information.

[k109]

Do as antmor said also try using a jack to get it in place might help

[BigpapaM109]

I will give a shot tomorrow. If that doesn't work it's off to the dealer I go. Thanks for the quick response guys. This is the absolute best place for reliable information.

No need to go to the dealer. Do as Anthony suggested. I did it his way last time and it definitely is easier. However, you can also jack up the motor on that side and line it up. It just takes patience. here is his quote from before....


A little tidbit to add to this how-to that I haven't seen mentioned before. I've done 2 of them now and advised on another. When putting the frame back together it makes life alot easier if you start the 2 bolts on the lower left (shifter) side first. These are the two behind the radiator down low. If you don't you will have a difficult time getting them started. I also found it easier to start the two bolts on the left foot peg bracket while having the long bolt that goes through the mounts out. Once they are started then put the long bolt in.

[Bullie]

No need to go to the dealer. Do as Anthony suggested. I did it his way last time and it definitely is easier. However, you can also jack up the motor on that side and line it up. It just takes patience. here is his quote from before....

Thanks guys the advice you gave worked perfectly. It went on so easy after I removed the long bolt that I didn't believe it was going in at first. I did use the jack to help line it up a little as well. I have made a short test ride and the bike is so much tighter. It is amazing what those two little pieces of rubber have down for the ride on this bike. Again, thanks to all who advised and encouraged me on this mod. I am not as mechanically inclined as some of you but I am learning thanks to you guys. Be safe and God Bless!

[BigpapaM109]

Thanks guys the advice you gave worked perfectly. It went on so easy after I removed the long bolt that I didn't believe it was going in at first. I did use the jack to help line it up a little as well. I have made a short test ride and the bike is so much tighter. It is amazing what those two little pieces of rubber have down for the ride on this bike. Again, thanks to all who advised and encouraged me on this mod. I am not as mechanically inclined as some of you but I am learning thanks to you guys. Be safe and God Bless!

Glad you got it fixed up :bigthumbsup: I was almost ready to take some vacation time and come out and fix it up for you if you couldn't. Hate to see it go to the dealer as it probably would never be right after that. LOL

[Bullie]

Glad you got it fixed up :bigthumbsup: I was almost ready to take some vacation time and come out and fix it up for you if you couldn't. Hate to see it go to the dealer as it probably would never be right after that. LOL

Thanks for the concern Bigpapa...I would have entertained you while you were here. There is plenty to see in Cali but I am glad you didn't had e to come and fix this one problem. You ever do come this way let me know and maybe we can break a little bread together. For now I am loving this minor change that has made a major difference.

[PWRTP]

My bike only has 5000 miles on it and I changed the front mounts today with the help of a buddy. Below is a picture of the old and new.
Everything that people have said about it riding like a different bike is true. Thanks for all the help and advice that everyone has posted on this thread. It made the little problems easier to deal with knowing that others had them as well and it helped to avoid a few too.
7091470915

[PanamaJack]

does anyone figure out how to do the 2 pair of rear mounts?

[Landlubber]

does anyone figure out how to do the 2 pair of rear mounts?

Are you sure you need to replace the rears? These mounts are a lot stiffer rubber and are actually the same ones that you use to replace the fronts.

[PanamaJack]

Are you sure you need to replace the rears? These mounts are a lot stiffer rubber and are actually the same ones that you use to replace the fronts.

not really,just wanting to know if this was figured out.

anyhow, I just checked my fronts and they are half or even 3/4 crushed... might as well do it soon althought the vibration I feel overall is not game killer for me.

[asviewedfrommars]

I'm struggling a little with understanding this mod....

The pictures don't show where exactly the motor mounts are located.

And the instructions don't seem to differentiate between left and right sides of the bike.

So as I understand it, you need to remove a section of the frame on both sides of the bike by unscrewing 6 bolts?

Or, are you removing the 6 frame bolts in order to allow the engine to be raised, and thus take the weight off of the engine mounts?

I assume that you remove the 6 bolts on both sides before removing the engine mounts?

[antmor69]

I'm struggling a little with understanding this mod....

The pictures don't show where exactly the motor mounts are located.

And the instructions don't seem to differentiate between left and right sides of the bike.

So as I understand it, you need to remove a section of the frame on both sides of the bike by unscrewing 6 bolts?

Or, are you removing the 6 frame bolts in order to allow the engine to be raised, and thus take the weight off of the engine mounts?

I assume that you remove the 6 bolts on both sides before removing the engine mounts?

There's a section of the frame on the right side (brake pedal side) that comes off with the removal of 6 bolts. This allows access to remove the mount on that side. On the left side (shifter side) its put together a little differently (easier). If you look on the left side (shifter side) of the bike underneath the starter at the front of the engine you can see the mounts. #35 in this picture.

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x383/antmor69/25042900.jpg

[antmor69]

Here's a picture of the frame. You can see all six bolts in this picture.

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x383/antmor69/b1525d63.jpg

[PanamaJack]

on the crankcase diagram the 2 mount (out of 6 that are in the middle of the frame are also #35- does this means both of this are softer too and need to be changed eventually?

[asviewedfrommars]

Ok, I think I'm getting it. Your parts diagram & frame photo help.

The diagram suggests that the 3 long bolts (labelled #37 & 38) pass thru the frame, and thru the rubber mounts, in order to support the engine.

You need a jack to take the weight of the engine off the frame, as well as the front #37 bolt (if you're only replacing the two front rubber engine mounts). That lets you slide the bolt out.

Removing the bottom section of frame on both left and right sides of the bike gives you access to the engine mounts to slide them out.

Does that sound about right?

[antmor69]

Ok, I think I'm getting it. Your parts diagram & frame photo help.

The diagram suggests that the 3 long bolts (labelled #37 & 38) pass thru the frame, and thru the rubber mounts, in order to support the engine.

You need a jack to take the weight of the engine off the frame, as well as the front #37 bolt (if you're only replacing the two front rubber engine mounts). That lets you slide the bolt out.

Removing the bottom section of frame on both left and right sides of the bike gives you access to the engine mounts to slide them out.

Does that sound about right?

Close. The frame only comes apart on the right side for access to the mount on that side. On the left side the long bolt slides through a removable piece that is bolted to the footpeg bracket through the frame. It makes sense when you get into it.

[asviewedfrommars]

Thanks very much for clarifying.

I've ordered two rubber mounts.

[SilverFox]

WOW!!! I was supprised to see just how bad my front engine mount bushings were at 16700 miles... Since my motor is out of my bike being rebuilt it was easy to view the front and rear.. The rear had very little wear, where as the front was really worn down and on one side really not sure if it was the top or bottom.. I was wondering if Suzuki made the bushings out of two different rubbers ( front being soft - Rear being hard )? When I asked the parts guy at the dealer he made a comment about that, of course I said WTF and ordered the harder bushings for the front based on what I have read on here.. THANKS to EVERYONE for all of your input.. it really makes it easy to make a decision. cant wait to get my 9 back on the road so I can feel the difference in the ride.....

[Bullie]

Thanks very much for clarifying.

I've ordered two rubber mounts.

I did my own and I promise you can handle it if you have the right tools and you take your time. Best of luck to you.

V

[tonymontanna1983]

Just changed all four of mine. The rear two were a piece of cake while the front was a lot more involved. On my 37,000 mile 2007 the front were flat but the rears looked fine.

[antmor69]

Just changed all four of mine. The rear two were a piece of cake while the front was a lot more involved. On my 37,000 2007 the front were flat but the rears looked fine.

There are six. Jus sayin. :D

[mach460]

Sounds like a good winter project when we cant ride up here.
Are we replacing with after market or factory mounts ????

[antmor69]

Sounds like a good winter project when we cant ride up here.
Are we replacing with after market or factory mounts ????

I don't know of any aftermarket ones.

[BigpapaM109]

I don't know of any aftermarket ones.

:agree: There are no aftermarket mounts that I have ever heard or seen.

[lmbull]

Has anyone done this without a bike jack? I plan on doing an oil change, push pin mod and front bushings within the next week or so.

[PWRTP]

I have a bike jack, but did not use it. I used a small floor jack. You will need some sort of jack. The bike jack was too big and got in the way.

[lmbull]

I have a bike jack, but did not use it. I used a small floor jack. You will need some sort of jack. The bike jack was too big and got in the way.

Right on! Thanks! My idea was to do it on the side stand and use a floor jack to support the motor. I plan on making a video to help others out in the future.

[tonymontanna1983]

There are six. Jus sayin. :D


Huh? Let me see..1....2......3......4.....................5..6 ? Aaaahhhhhhhhhhh nooooooooooo! Ok, I changed four out of six. D'oh!

Guess I'm ordering two more. I'm so stupid

[xXxSilveradoxXx]

Anybody have any new mounts that they haven't yet installed? I'm thinking about getting the measurements and getting some polyurethane ones.

[Scorp]

Anybody have any new mounts that they haven't yet installed? I'm thinking about getting the measurements and getting some polyurethane ones.

Yeah i'm doing the same thing. I'm almost done with the mold. I just went and pull one of the mounts and measured the mounting hole its self then added .005

[MordiRider]

Polyurethane would be good. Are you thinking of getting a few made and selling them to members of this forum?

[Scorp]

Polyurethane would be good. Are you thinking of getting a few made and selling them to members of this forum?

I sure am! So if anyone still has they're old worn out mounts don't throw them away. I'll take them.

[MordiRider]

Please keep us updated but if you are to use a set as a template to make polyurethane ones shouldn't you use new ones that haven't been damaged or compressed? Not an expert here - just asking. :-)

[Scorp]

Please keep us updated but if you are to use a set as a template to make polyurethane ones shouldn't you use new ones that haven't been damaged or compressed? Not an expert here - just asking. :-)

I'm using the old ones for the the metal spacer and washer. Everything else will be new and polyurethane.

[OldMarine]

Given the wearing problem ... wouldn't these mount bushings be better made from metal?
Just asking ... please forgive my ignorance of this.

[PanamaJack]

Given the wearing problem ... wouldn't these mount bushings be better made from metal?
Just asking ... please forgive my ignorance of this.

this are cushions to lessen the vibration between the motor and the frame, I don't think metal will work because of this reason, they will intensify the vibration and send it right to the handlebars.

But that's my lucky guess, not to mechanically inclined either :P

[MordiRider]

There are a lot of posts here. Is there a general agreement on how or or miles travelled an M109 would be to need new mounts. Mine is an 07 with 15,000 kms (9,000 miles) approx.

Thanks

[MordiRider]

Meant to write 'how old'

[mjdcedarrapids]

Thanks, Plan to do it this during this clutch repair.

[PanamaJack]

There are a lot of posts here. Is there a general agreement on how or or miles travelled an M109 would be to need new mounts. Mine is an 07 with 15,000 kms (9,000 miles) approx.

Thanks

you can do a quick visual inspection with a light and you can tell for yourself if needed or not, I wasn't planning to do it but when I looked at them (and understood what was I looking at) I knew I need new ones at 18K KM.

[Scorp]

I would think it would be better for racing than for the street. If you made them solid it would be like driving a Harley.

[antmor69]

There are a lot of posts here. Is there a general agreement on how or or miles travelled an M109 would be to need new mounts. Mine is an 07 with 15,000 kms (9,000 miles) approx.

Thanks

You need them as soon as you take delivery of the bike. :D

[Nemo]

You need them as soon as you take delivery of the bike. :D

lol

[OldMarine]

this are cushions to lessen the vibration between the motor and the frame, I don't think metal will work because of this reason, they will intensify the vibration and send it right to the handlebars.

But that's my lucky guess, not to mechanically inclined either :P

Aaaaahh ... I see, said the blind man. :P

So, it sounds like the bushings need to be 'just-the-right-hardness' to do the job they were intended to do.
And the front bushings were made too soft - so, the need for the substitute of the harder rear bushings.
Is that about right?

And -- maybe all 6 need to be replaced when you go to all the trouble to start 'replacing'?
(a person [me] would think Suzuki would have taken care of this problem by now :swear::edit: )

I hope Scorp will have some available for sale soon.


You need them as soon as you take delivery of the bike. :D

It sounds like that may be pretty close to the truth.

[BigpapaM109]

Since I did mine, I have had a very harsh vibration under any hard acceleration. I am guessing that it is time to check out the other 4 and see if they are worn at 46k miles. That is the winter project.

[JMAKAMN]

Since I did mine, I have had a very harsh vibration under any hard acceleration. I am guessing that it is time to check out the other 4 and see if they are worn at 46k miles. That is the winter project.can we get a write up with that

[bwl60]

I just had the engine out of my bike and the front and the top rear were shot bad, the bottom back were worn but not too bad. The bike has 26,000 on it. Don't know if they had been changed before since I am the second owner.

[AssyrianWonder]

I am surprised energy suspension didnt make a poly kit yet...I would def pay the money!