Replaceing the clutch cable step by step

[gooroo]

First off, I want to thank Dickschiff, photos and directions. The directions were in German, which I translated and changed somewhat based on my own expirence and in the use of english. So the M109 in the pics are not mine.

Tools you may need.

1 - 4 mm Allen key (longer end for deeper mounted screw on the middle engine cover)
1 open end wrench 13 mm or ½ inch depending on the cable nuts
1 channel lock pliers
1 needle nose pliers
1 snips or wire cutters
String (Optional)


Now let's look at the cable and realize the two plastic binders connecting the old clutch cable with the electronic cables. Take the snips and cut the two parts quickly away!

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/1schlauchschellen.jpg

Now we see the black rubber dust cover Suzuki added to the lever. The thing is a bit stubborn, but it is best to simply pull it backwards until it folds down and pushes away.

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/1Xkupplungsmuffe.jpg

Now use the 4 mm Allen key and remove the Middle engine cover (chrome plastic) on the left. The three screws are marked here. The bottom sits slightly deeper inside, so use the longer key!

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/2coverschrauben.jpg

Loosen the locknut and the cable lever screw. The grooves in each should be lined up to remove the cable.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/3ausklinkengriff.jpg


Now drag the coupling cable left and pull the cable out of the slot.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/4kabelkommt.jpg

Then rotate the cable forward and push down... the cable barrel comes out below!
This reveals the cable barrel with plastic cover... which is used to probably lower friction? And allows better rotation of the cylinder in the hole? Who knows?
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/5ausgeklinkt.jpg

The mount on the engine is somewhat awkward. The cable runs through a tube and is then bolted to a cable bracket (looks like a hook) with two nuts. The nuts are located here in the photo below. The cable then is attached by the end barrel to the clutch lever The Coupling lever has a back off spring and is fixed with a screw. I have released the spring and lever screw so that I get more space. You can do it but it does not have to be done if you have smaller hands then I.



http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/6kupplungsfixation.jpg

OPTIONAL

This is the mysterious fishing line. I have tied it twice around the cable so it is secure and keeps it from separating. This saves time and simplifies the routing of the new cable enormously.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/7fishline.jpg

Tie the fishing line to the top (handle) end of the old cable.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/8angebunden.jpg


Loosen the upper fixation nut on hook which attached the curved metal portion of the clutch cable to the clutch bracket. The metal end is too thick to remove from the bracket seat, therefore press it down to get it out.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/9kplfixschraubeab.jpg


Now only the actual clutch cable is unthreaded and should be moved backward unloosening at the rear of the bracket opening.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/10kabeldruck.jpg

Now it is more complicated: to get the end removed from clamp's coupling lever, you rotate the cable from the bottom up and the fixation cylinder then left to move it out. It may take some jiggling of the metal portion of the clutch cable to get it to slide out smoothly.

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/11kabeldrehung.jpg


This looks a lucky winner! The cable barrel is coming out!
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/12kabelausgeklinkt.jpg



The cable is now at the top and bottom free and you can pull it out carefully.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/13kabelauszug.jpg

Pull it through calmly without jerking it because it can catch on various portions of the bike. This is where you can use the fishing line.

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/14kabelrausfishline.jpg

Pull the cable from the bottom upwards. The fishing line can be tied to the new cable and pulled through. Slide the cable simultaneously below. There is a motor mount where the cable must go around and it can interfere with two screws.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/16hierhakts.jpg
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/17kabeldurch.jpg

First mount the new cable below near the engine. Slide the clutch barrel back into place on the clutch lever. This can be tricky because the cable must be pulled up over the top of the mount before the barrel which slides into the lever. It is a good idea to add some Grease to the area that the cable barrel. For those of you using the new Barnett cable with the plastic sheath over the barrel, you may need to take a small screw driver and lightly pry the hole open a little to accommodate the clutch cable barrel.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/18einklinkenkupplung.jpg

Re-insert the cable behind the cable bracket and then insert the threaded metal cable slide back into the cable bin the hook of the engine and fit in the thread from below. (make sure one on the nuts is on the top of the bracket and the other below) The tighten them.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/19festziehenmutter.jpg


If you have loosened the return order spring and the clutch lever, set it in the original place and tighten the screw.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/20fettundfertig.jpg

Near the lever be sure to slide the rubber boot back onto the cable first
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/21gummimuffe.jpg

Then fit in the barrel into the cylinder from below the clutch lever handle insuring that it is routed in the cable channel.

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/22einklinkengriff.jpg

Now we adjust the Coupling play. The Coupling lever should have between 10 and 15 mm "play". Move the lever back and forth until it feels light resistance.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/23kupplungsspiel.jpg

To set the cable, you need to re-thread the locknut and the cable lever screw. When the cable play is correct tighten the lock screw.
http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/24spieleinstellen.jpg


Replace the rubber dust cover and you are ready for testing.

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/25muffefertig.jpg

[whitee]

Excellent! Well done and thanks. :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

[hunt4steve]

WHOA....that finger just doesn't look right...... :o

http://home.snafu.de/stoertebeker/kupplungszug/22einklinkengriff.jpg

double jointed I assume......



Nice write up, I'll be using this info to replace my cables with 3+" longer cables.

[nukeblade]

WoW!!! :o Great job! Thanks :bigthumbsup:

I was just thinking of posting a question asking what tools are needed so when I do some road trippin this summer I can take only the tools that are necessary:bigthumbsup:

22k miles on the original cable :o :bigthumbsup: 8) I always pack a spare on road trips.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dickschiff]

Thanks to gooroo for the great translation.

@hunt4steve: My finger is completely IN ORDER! LOL!

I would like to add, that I really recommend the use of the fishing line, because pulling the new cable through without it would be a real pain and might require the disassembly of a lot of covers...

Dickschiff

["Rumba"]

very clear and precise step by step... thanks bro.
that finger :edit: special for the G spot. he he he

[baldylatino]

Very nicE!

[4U2NV]

Subscribing to this thread. Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!

[ABQ109er]

It looks so easy even a caveman like me can do it. :joke:

[shaptec]

:bigthumbsup:Did it. Took 30 minutes tops. The wire is the best idea ever. Thanks, man. You were a lifesaver.

By the way, anybody have any idea why clutch cables snap so easily on this bike? It's the second one I own and on both of them I had clocked less than 5000 miles before the :edit: popped. Same place, too. The little nut right at the lower end.

[Bullrider]

perfect!!!!!

[jdmitchell]

:bigthumbsup:Did it. Took 30 minutes tops. The wire is the best idea ever. Thanks, man. You were a lifesaver.

By the way, anybody have any idea why clutch cables snap so easily on this bike? It's the second one I own and on both of them I had clocked less than 5000 miles before the :edit: popped. Same place, too. The little nut right at the lower end.


Keeping the ends covered in lube and adjusting the cable so that there is no undue tension on the cable will help out with longevity issues.

[vinbess]

THANX FOR THE HELP BRO, U MADE IT EASY:bigthumbsup:

[SILVERPUGJ]

I just bought 1 of those barnett cables from DLP & it doexnt seem to fit rite. It was hitting on the frame when I installed it at the back end? It looks to be a lil long. Cant even adjust it with touching the frame with the metal hosing? Maybe they sent me the wrong cable??? It was also really tough to hook the ends in after it was installed, no clutch play what so ever! Maybe they use different cables for lenght in the 06? Look at the pics guys. tell me what you think? one is with new silver cable, other is with stock cable housing put back in..... thanks :dontknow:

[SILVERPUGJ]

Went over to Zuki dealer & picked up a stock clutch cable this morning. Still tooo tight to install it on both ends. Took pipes back off again & side over. As soon as I removed some pressure off the 6 clutch cover bolts everything opened up fine & free wheelin. I wa amazed!!!! Anyway I took it apart again & found out that you shouldn't do a clutch job after working 10 hours at your day job. Turns out I had 2 clutch plates reversed order in the clutch basket. I studied the install diagram for the 3rd time & figured it out! WOW!! What a difference it makes! 2 quarters of freeplay & clutch catches in the middle just like when it was new, I guess (I bought it used). Looks like Ill make it to Bike Nite in Lansdale,Pa.!!!! Thanks for the input from this site!!:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

[SILVERPUGJ]

Went over to Zuki dealer & picked up a stock clutch cable this morning. Still tooo tight to install it on both ends. Took pipes back off again & side over. As soon as I removed some pressure off the 6 clutch cover bolts everything opened up fine & free wheelin. I wa amazed!!!! Anyway I took it apart again & found out that you shouldn't do a clutch job after working 10 hours at your day job. Turns out I had 2 clutch plates reversed order in the clutch basket. I studied the install diagram for the 3rd time & figured it out! WOW!! What a difference it makes! 2 quarters of freeplay & clutch catches in the middle just like when it was new, I guess (I bought it used). Looks like Ill make it to Bike Nite in Lansdale,Pa.!!!! Thanks for the input from this site!!:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

[Kazimodo]

Thanks for all your precise feedback SilverPugJ
you never know who else may describe the same
behavior from their bikes , after a tranny rebuild ,
now we can turn their attention to the
clutch plate's order , in which they reassembled their tranny .
..
:bigthumbsup:,:congrats: on your success .

[NMclay]

I just finished replacing my clutch cable with this thread's help. The fishing line was AWESOME. Made for an easy changeout. I am ready to ride now and it is getting icy out. :doh:Oh well..........

Thanks for the great how-to. I am sure I could have figured it out myself but it wouldn't have gone so smoothly, I am sure. :bigthumbsup:

[MalM109R]

Wow! Another must save thread for future worries free clutch change. Thanks a lot!:bigthumbsup:

[Munster]

I'm definitely going to carry some 30lb test line in my saddlebags and a spare cable on my next road trip....just in case!

[mojo!k]

awesome write up - subscribing to this one :bigthumbsup:

[TORQ]

This was very well done.... Sure wish he'd do one on our Throttle Push Pulls:bigthumbsup:

[mojo!k]

This was very well done.... Sure wish he'd do one on our Throttle Push Pulls:bigthumbsup:
ummm you mean, this one?
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123705&highlight=barnett+cable

[tydaniels]

Great instructions, I just finished installing barnett clutch line, now on to the throttle cables:P

[bISHOP20000]

:bigthumbsup:Man I couldnt have done it with out this write up ....thks alot bro :bigthumbsup:

[rudeboy109]

very well done, great pics

[RicardoRodriguez]

Fishing line = Best tip ever !!!

:bigthumbsup:

[The Bull]

Noticed today cable is trade looked for instructions and their they were. I am going to replace it soon thankyou so much.

[BigpapaM109]

Great write up. I use thin string that I bought from home depot for a few bucks. Works great if you don't have fishing line.

[mfarlow]

You might want to consider re-routing the clutch cable from it's stock position.

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104111&highlight=clutch+cable+routing

[Les7311]

:doh::doh:

[The M]

Mine just broke at only 8300 miles - going out to fix it now. Thanks for the excellent DIY!

[RR109]

Good stuff,,,,, i will be getting another clutch cable to install soon, and use my old one as a spare. Had a 109 rider this weekend clutch cable broke on him. Don't want that problem. that will be this weekend project to replace my clutch cable and be sure to lub it up. i got over 12k miles on it, i'm sure it will be breaking in the near future. So why wait......???

[The M]

I thought I had time to spare at 8k and I was wrong. So yes, you'll feel better knowing your ticking time bomb is gone!

[M203R]

Haha, nice photoshop skills brother.

Great tutorial too.
:bigthumbsup:

[Vet109]

:bigthumbsup:

Now the throttle ones are next!

[NJDEVIL]

Another excellent how to. I did this one along with the throttle cables yesterday. Only thing I did differently-when pulling the new cable up at the motor mount I cut the string and rerouted around the mount. Retied the string on and continued pulling it up :bigthumbsup:

[Kazimodo]

Another excellent how to. I did this one along with the throttle cables yesterday. Only thing I did differently-when pulling the new cable up at the motor mount I cut the string and rerouted around the mount. Retied the string on and continued pulling it up :bigthumbsup:

..
I don't know if you ( or anyone else ) can find a picture of that motor mount we have to run around ,
I have the new clutch cable ,I have had it for a while ,and I have read many times about "rerouting" the cable but I can't figure out exactly the spot that we are supposed to run around so i keep waiting to install the newer cable .

[Zoom]

Kazimodo, it's easy to see. Look at your stock cable where it disappears under the engine. It goes over a frame cross member then under the motor mount, which places some pressure on it. You just want to get it out from under the engine. It lays right between those two bolts and the engine mount is a little lower and closer to the engine.

Here's where the stock cable lays and where you want the new one to go. Basically it's just out from under the engine. I also pulled my cable down from above instead of pulling it up.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg175/Zoom109/M109R/OldClutchCableRouting.jpg

[Kazimodo]

WOW , thanks Zoom , this is really clear
i was looking at original route and it didn't look too bad ,
now I know where I want it to go :bigthumbsup:

[heem16]

Thanks for the step by step help--great. Mine snapped at 13K right at the bottom end. Didn't have any fray, just a clean break ???

[109RaginCajun]

Just used your very thorough instructions to change my cable. :bigthumbsup: It was frayed and the bike is for sale, so I went ahead and replaced it. Thanks for making that a whole lot easier.

[LTM109R]

Just installed my pro-motion cable, thanks for the excellent write up. Let me echo what we always say, this site is great!

[purvistechie]

Just installed my pro-motion cable, thanks for the excellent write up. Let me echo what we always say, this site is great!

I just did the same last night, installed Motion Pro +3. Do you notice that your motion pro has a bit more pull to the clutch? Seems like the tension increased quite a bit from stock. Did you notice this? Does it just need to break in?

[Dommy]

Excellent how to.

Just a question.
I've bought a new cable from a Suzuki dealer, I thought just to get only the cable (for info, I didn't see this "how to" yet when I ordered it).

I think I've got the entire cable assembly.
Is it stictly necessary to get the entire assembly, or is it enough to get only the cable to replace it? I do not understand completely this from the pics here.
This is what I got, in the attachment.

Thanks.

[antmor69]

Excellent how to.

Just a question.
I've bought a new cable from a Suzuki dealer, I thought just to get only the cable (for info, I didn't see this "how to" yet when I ordered it).

I think I've got the entire cable assembly.
Is it stictly necessary to get the entire assembly, or is it enough to get only the cable to replace it? I do not understand completely this from the pics here.
This is what I got, in the attachment.

Thanks.

That's how it comes. You replace the whole thing.

[Dommy]

Thank you ;).

[gooroo]

Excellent how to.

Just a question.
I've bought a new cable from a Suzuki dealer, I thought just to get only the cable (for info, I didn't see this "how to" yet when I ordered it).

I think I've got the entire cable assembly.
Is it stictly necessary to get the entire assembly, or is it enough to get only the cable to replace it? I do not understand completely this from the pics here.
This is what I got, in the attachment.

Thanks.

Hey man...sorry I didn't get back to you for a LONG TIME...just havn't been on the site lately. I am sure you got your answer by now, but I just wanted to appologize.

If you got no answer shoot me back a PM and I help out.

[Blackey]

Question...after routing around the motor mount and the "two bolts"...did you route the cable inside or outside of the bracket shown here?

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm313/SUBrts/clutchcable.jpg

[GODRA]

Ive seen a guys a cable put on the inside of that bracket and it was summer and he was wondering how on a long stop and go ride his fan never came on and nothing showed up out of the warning lights. So he turned it on and let it idle on a hot day and then when it came on it didnt spin because the cable was touching it! So he moved the cable out of the way and what do you know it was ON. So watch out for that. I dint think urs should block the fan because it looks straight but his cable was curving around and thats what caused it to lean in the fan.


Sent from my FULLYSICK iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dommy]

Hey man...sorry I didn't get back to you for a LONG TIME...just havn't been on the site lately. I am sure you got your answer by now, but I just wanted to appologize.

If you got no answer shoot me back a PM and I help out.

It's fine :bigthumbsup:.
I got my answer.

[festersvan]

Excellent pics and info pal,well done :bigthumbsup:

[hitchiker1959]

I am totally useless when it comes to anything to do with cars or Motorbikes believe me !!! but through this site and certain individuals i have grown in confidence to do more and with the help of my son who as just started a motor mechanic apprenticeship we have changed the risers, the front brake line, the clutch cable and tacho housing and the only thing to do at present is the throttle cables which i acquired from Barnetts they have a card connected to them stating DO NOT LUBRICATE WITH A AEROSOL LUBE could anyone tell me why this is so !!!! :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::redfaced:

[Zoom]

I am totally useless when it comes to anything to do with cars or Motorbikes believe me !!! but through this site and certain individuals i have grown in confidence to do more and with the help of my son who as just started a motor mechanic apprenticeship we have changed the risers, the front brake line, the clutch cable and tacho housing and the only thing to do at present is the throttle cables which i acquired from Barnetts they have a card connected to them stating DO NOT LUBRICATE WITH A AEROSOL LUBE could anyone tell me why this is so !!!! :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::redfaced:

The lube can seap out of the cable and stain the braided cover, so they don't want you to lube them with anything oily. I never lube my Barnett cables, they have a teflon sleeve inside the cable housing and the cable itself is telon covered. Really doesn't need any lube.

[Andy33]

subscribed. Doing this tonight.

[Mo H]

This was a great and easier to do because I have bike tore down. I do want to know how much play should there be in the pull cable or should it be tight, I still have a little play. Thanks.

[M109Dreamer]

This was a great and easier to do because I have bike tore down. I do want to know how much play should there be in the pull cable or should it be tight, I still have a little play. Thanks.

Atleast 2 quarters worth. Just stack 2 $.25's in the gap at the lever and adjust the gap until they barely fall out.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

[Mo H]

Sorry just realized I posted in wrong board:redfaced: